Brake light modulator

[Blue Crab]

I am trying to get a brake light modulator to work on my '07 FJR. Not having any luck.

My first attempt was with the Vizi-Tec "SupaBrake" module. For some reason it won't work. No brake light at all with the module installed. Tried two different modules. Ended up returning for refund.

My second attempt was with a "36 mode universal brake light flasher/strober". I wired it up and it too won't work properly on my bike. It flashes/strobes like it's supposed to, but the delay function doesn't work. I tried the module powered by a 12VDC power supply and it works perfectly. Strange.

At this point I'm convinced that there's something strange with my bike's brake light circuit. When I put a volt meter across the brake light (yellow) wire and ground, I'm seeing +8 VDC on the brake like circuit with brakes OFF, and +12 VDC on the circuit with the brakes ON. What's up with that?

I spoke to the manufacturer of the SupaBrake and he says that it appears to be an impedance issue. He says that the bike must use an open-collector (FET) instead of a relay and that's why I'm seeing the +8 VDC. And it appears that this is why I'm not able to get any of the brake light modulators to work on my bike.

Has anyone else run into this problem?

 

[Pepperell]

Sure fire but expensive cure: Install a trailer brake light converter/isolator, about $50 bux Amazon.

On the good side, installing a hitch and pulling a trailer would be easier...

 

[mcatrophy]

I am trying to get a brake light modulator to work on my '07 FJR. Not having any luck.

My first attempt was with the Vizi-Tec "SupaBrake" module. For some reason it won't work. No brake light at all with the module installed. Tried two different modules. Ended up returning for refund.

My second attempt was with a "36 mode universal brake light flasher/strober". I wired it up and it too won't work properly on my bike. It flashes/strobes like it's supposed to, but the delay function doesn't work. I tried the module powered by a 12VDC power supply and it works perfectly. Strange.

At this point I'm convinced that there's something strange with my bike's brake light circuit. When I put a volt meter across the brake light (yellow) wire and ground, I'm seeing +8 VDC on the brake like circuit with brakes OFF, and +12 VDC on the circuit with the brakes ON. What's up with that?

I spoke to the manufacturer of the SupaBrake and he says that it appears to be an impedance issue. He says that the bike must use an open-collector (FET) instead of a relay and that's why I'm seeing the +8 VDC. And it appears that this is why I'm not able to get any of the brake light modulators to work on my bike.

Has anyone else run into this problem?

If you've disconnected the normal brake lights, your issue may be that the wire connects to the ABS computer, which (I am guessing) puts out a low current sense to see if the brake light is there. In that case you will read this sense voltage on your meter, and it will presumably upset your modulator.

Maybe a relay switched by the brake line, its contacts switching 12V to your modulator.

 

[Blue Crab]

Maybe a relay switched by the brake line, its contacts switching 12V to your modulator.

Yeah, I thought about doing that too... install a simple 12V relay... but then I'd have to run a new wire to the battery (or pick up +12 VDC from somewhere else) to power the bulbs. Maybe I'll end up doing that... but I hate adding complexity.

 

[ionbeam]

If you've disconnected the normal brake lights, your issue may be that the wire connects to the ABS computer, which (I am guessing) puts out a low current sense to see if the brake light is there. In that case you will read this sense voltage on your meter, and it will presumably upset your modulator.

Maybe a relay switched by the brake line, its contacts switching 12V to your modulator.

^^^^^ Good answer. You may end up having to add a second brake relay just to signal your modulator that the brake is on.

Though rare, sometimes in a dual filament bulb one filament fails then the broken end of the filament flops over and shorts to the adjacent filament which could cause the +8 volts.

 

[azitlies]

If I'm understanding you correctly, it *sounds* like a simple Hyper-lite setup should do the trick? Have these (with license plate bracket) on my 08 fjr and prior ST1300.

Pretty easy install, not expensive, work very very well, day and *especially* night.

Sorry if this is of no help to you now... but they are great... maybe time to reconsider?

 

[Drew]

I tried to order a Supabrake through Eastern Beavere and was told that the mfg doesn't make one compatible for the FJR - at least an '07, which is what I've got. That is probably the issue with the Supabrake so I wouldn't blame the bike in this case.

I installed a set of Hyperlites on my bike, fairly simple thing to do, I have the 3-way set, brake, running and turn signals.

I'm not greatly impressed, but they function as advertised, they just seem so .... small.

 

[Patriot]

they just seem so .... small bright

 

[jwhite518]

Get a Hyperlite. It works.

 

[Bounce]

My Hyper-Light install from some years back.

https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/hyper/hyper.html

Still working great!

 

[DeltaKappaZeta]

Maybe a relay switched by the brake line, its contacts switching 12V to your modulator.

Yeah, I thought about doing that too... install a simple 12V relay... but then I'd have to run a new wire to the battery (or pick up +12 VDC from somewhere else) to power the bulbs. Maybe I'll end up doing that... but I hate adding complexity.

So what did you end up doing?

I'm thinking of getting the same unit because I like the feature set compared to other units.

Mabye some pix of your install if possible?

Many Thanks

Dan

 

[bramfrank]

You might want to consider doing something similar to what I did for my bike:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=128806

 

[Fred W]

+1 - Hyperlights are wimpy. Get a nice bright red TIR2 or LIN3 (or two) and wire a flasher to that bad boy.

BTW - Flashing the regular incandescent brake lamps doesn't work for ****. BTDT <_< .

The light bulb is too slow to illuminate to be effective at getting any attention. That's where the LEDs come in strong.

 

[HotRodZilla]

+1 - Hyperlights are wimpy. Get a nice bright red TIR2 or LIN3 (or two) and wire a flasher to that bad boy.

BTW - Flashing the regular incandescent brake lamps doesn't work for ****. BTDT <_< .

The light bulb is too slow to illuminate to be effective at getting any attention. That's where the LEDs come in strong.

Agree on the flashing rear accessory lights. I use a Whelen LED strobe that works awesome.

I also have TailBlazer lights installed in lieu of my rear brake lights. They flash fast and slow as time goes. They are really nice too.

 

[k1oj]

I am trying to get a brake light modulator to work on my '07 FJR. Not having any luck.

My first attempt was with the Vizi-Tec "SupaBrake" module. For some reason it won't work. No brake light at all with the module installed. Tried two different modules. Ended up returning for refund.

My second attempt was with a "36 mode universal brake light flasher/strober". I wired it up and it too won't work properly on my bike. It flashes/strobes like it's supposed to, but the delay function doesn't work. I tried the module powered by a 12VDC power supply and it works perfectly. Strange.

At this point I'm convinced that there's something strange with my bike's brake light circuit. When I put a volt meter across the brake light (yellow) wire and ground, I'm seeing +8 VDC on the brake like circuit with brakes OFF, and +12 VDC on the circuit with the brakes ON. What's up with that?

I spoke to the manufacturer of the SupaBrake and he says that it appears to be an impedance issue. He says that the bike must use an open-collector (FET) instead of a relay and that's why I'm seeing the +8 VDC. And it appears that this is why I'm not able to get any of the brake light modulators to work on my bike.

Has anyone else run into this problem?

I have experienced exactly the same results with the Vizi-Tec on my 2007. I have 3 separate units from them all wired differently and all fail to give brake light. I am returning them. I took one with me to a tech day and tried it on an '08 and it worked fine. I think there is something different about the 2007 brake circuit. :angry:

 

[DELETE-PLEASE]

Did no one suggest, "tap the brakes when you stop" yet?! Every time I stop or slow down, I pulse my front brake lever enough to make it turn on and off. Free and works EVERY time. I also pulse it when I'm at a stoplight and another car is coming up behind me. Very easy habit to get into, and it's easily transferred from bike to bike....

Alexi

 

[FB1]

FWIW, I have used the VisiStop from Comagination. 3 different units installed on on 3 different bikes - Honda Magna, Suzuki Savage, and 2008 FJR and I've never experienced a problem with them working whatsoever. The product is not fancy but it is cheap ($29), it's potted to avoid moisture damage, and it works. Their headlight modulators also have worked quite well for me.

Just to be sure...I went out to the garage and checked...the VisiStop is tapped into the yellow wire running along the left side of the riders seat storage. Sounds like that's the same wire you are tapped in to?

 

[TomInPA]

Just to make it easy. The brilliant 3 LED strobe can be a $38 Galls Surface light, which is the same as the Whelen TIR3. Coupled with a Universal Brake Light Flasher/Stober, you won't be missed. The universal flasher will also modulate your tail lights, but I only use it on the LEDs. There are 36 flash patterns, and you want to set the LED to steady (no flash), then use the controller to create the legal flash pattern, fast or slow. The flasher is extremely small .(1/2" x 1/2" x 1/16") and easy to install. I use the Galls red LEDs on my bike, and it is visible for miles.

 

[El Toro Joe]

I have the Whelen TIR3 w/flasher...works great...very easy install.