Brake Pads - should I replace them?

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Damn... I didn't know this was about penises. I guess I must have missed the gay codeword somewhere along the line... :dribble:

BTW, I have my original engine and she's running jus fine thanks.

And didn't start anything. I just agreed that the brakes are cheaper and easier to service on 1st gens, not that I actually have any experience with 2nd gens, just reading the manuals.

But... Did you ever notice that certain 2nd gen owners are fast to rise to the stinky bait cast by the manatee molester?

What's up with that? Inferiority complex or sumpthin? :unsure:

 
Fair prices, little over this place. But, if service is solid, I'm OK with paying little over.

Thanks for the link.

Thanks for the info. I had no idea about the slot cut.

When the time comes to replace the pads, is there any other "brake" part I should replace?

It appears this place has the best price on OEM brakes.

https://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-3P6-W0045-00-00.html
check out www.ronayers.com

I go to them exclusively after years of great, no hassle sales at very good prices
 
But... Did you ever notice that certain 2nd gen owners are fast to rise to the stinky bait cast by the manatee molester?

What's up with that? Inferiority complex or sumpthin? :unsure:
I've noticed that too... :D
Back on topic:

OP - Go buy the pads and replace them! Don't risk the trip, you're going to need them soon enough any-whos.

 
Order has been placed.

Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions.

Most important, Happy Holidays to you all.

But... Did you ever notice that certain 2nd gen owners are fast to rise to the stinky bait cast by the manatee molester?

What's up with that? Inferiority complex or sumpthin? :unsure:
I've noticed that too... :D
Back on topic:

OP - Go buy the pads and replace them! Don't risk the trip, you're going to need them soon enough any-whos.
 
But... Did you ever notice that certain 2nd gen owners are fast to rise to the stinky bait cast by the manatee molester?

What's up with that? Inferiority complex or sumpthin? :unsure:
I've noticed that too... :D
Back on topic:

OP - Go buy the pads and replace them! Don't risk the trip, you're going to need them soon enough any-whos.
What he said! And keep the old pads, well at least the thicker ones if you have any. That way if the next set wears unevenly(as most do), you can swap them for the ones that wear out quicker. That'll delay having to fork over another $170 for a new set!

Oh yeah....Gen 1's suck and guys that ride them are..well...you know..except for Bluesman, he's all right.

 
What he said! And keep the old pads, well at least the thicker ones if you have any. That way if the next set wears unevenly(as most do), you can swap them for the ones that wear out quicker. That'll delay having to fork over another $170 for a new set!
The OP may not have realized. but the set of front pads that are linked to the rear brake (on a 2nd gen) usually wear quite a bit slower from all accounts. By rotating the brake pads at strategic intervals one can extend the time between pad changes.

Oh yeah....Gen 1's suck and guys that ride them are..well...you know..except for Bluesman, he's all right.
Oh my... :blink:

If you think Bluesman is "alright" you just lost all credibility...

:p

 
So, just so I'm clear, if the groove is gone on the pad or close to being gone, I need to replace pads, is that a correct understanding?
Drive 'em 'til they scrape...THEN replace them IMMEDIATELY. Even during your trip. Only takes about 5 minutes to do a pad change.

No sense throwing away pads with material still on 'em.
Don't listen to dufus. I wouldn't ride them till they scrape. And they take me more than 5 minutes to change and I DO use tools! I also remove the calipers.

However, being a cheap SOB I do wait until the last possible minute to change them. If there is material left, why change? I had been watching mine closely recently as I knew they were getting close. Got about 7,000 more miles out of them than I thought I would.

So here are my photos of my well worn pads I took out, and the new one's. These are superior Gen I pads, so not sure how they compare to sissy Gen IIs. Oh, and buy OEM. And in the future, cyclepartswarehouse.com is your friend!

88kfrontpadchangeDec112.jpg


88kfrontpadchangeDec114.jpg


 
So, just so I'm clear, if the groove is gone on the pad or close to being gone, I need to replace pads, is that a correct understanding?
Drive 'em 'til they scrape...THEN replace them IMMEDIATELY. Even during your trip. Only takes about 5 minutes to do a pad change.

No sense throwing away pads with material still on 'em.
Don't listen to dufus. I wouldn't ride them till they scrape. And they take me more than 5 minutes to change and I DO use tools! I also remove the calipers.
Perhaps I should've written "Fly 'em till they crash." Then you'd understand? And do you remove the tank to fill it with gas? Why in hell would you remove the calipers to replace the pads? Curious.

 
Perhaps I should've written "Fly 'em till they crash." Then you'd understand? And do you remove the tank to fill it with gas? Why in hell would you remove the calipers to replace the pads? Curious.
Here's why I do it: You have to push the caliper pistons all the way back into the bores. With the pads all worn out they are well extended and all covered with lovely road spooge, just aching to foul up the seals. I want to clean those pistons off as well as I can before pressing them back into the seals. YMMV

 
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Merry Christmas to me, I just got home with a brand spanky new set of front brake pads. My front pads look like Skoots, or perhaps they even have a bit less material. I need to get the pads on so I can mount my freshly shod wheels (thanks Fred!). It's looking like I'll be riding into the new year!

I always give my caliper pistons a super cleaning before I push them back into the bore. All 4 of my pads wear evenly and I think it's because I keep the pistons and slides very clean. Some of the local FJR riders will be shocked to hear that *any* part of my FJR is ever clean :lol:

 
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I am one who's been to the place where seals had to be replaced, symptom being pads not withdrawing from the rotor, front wheel not freewheeling at all. I could move it by hand, but it wouldn't spin at all. Prior to that I only had one pad change, and I did it with the easy-fast method. I have no idea what history there is before I got the bike.

But one day I found that the brakes were tight on the rotors, even when released. Not so tight you can't ride, but like I just said, the wheel doesn't spin freely. 130 bucks later (4 seal kits, each kit doing one pair of pistons) the brakes are correct again, and the wheel spins freely. I cleaned the pistons thoroughly with a good overnight soak before reassembling the calipers, and I intend to clean piston-splooge before pressing them into the cylinders in the future. That'll make it more than 5 minutes, and not tool-less, but it will protect the seals.

I do recall some manatee molester stating that his front wheel was doing something similar some months ago . . . .

 
I don't really see why I need to clean them every time...

100_3067.jpg


Yeah, still haven't got around to getting out the hose since the Walpole ride. :rolleyes:

PS - when you bringin' that front over for a balancing, Alan?

 
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- when you bringin' that front over for a balancing, Alan?
When are ya free during this Season of Silliness? I'm considering going to Derry today to pick up a bottle of Gewurztraminer and Kirschwasser to go with some food I'm cooking for a party tomorrow. My company has paroled me until next Tuesday.

 
I don't really see why I need to clean them every time...

100_3067.jpg


Yeah, still haven't got around to getting out the hose since the Walpole ride. :rolleyes:

PS - when you bringin' that front over for a balancing, Alan?
I bet it really pissed off the road crew when you rode through their wet cement!

 
What he said! And keep the old pads, well at least the thicker ones if you have any. That way if the next set wears unevenly(as most do), you can swap them for the ones that wear out quicker. That'll delay having to fork over another $170 for a new set!
The OP may not have realized. but the set of front pads that are linked to the rear brake (on a 2nd gen) usually wear quite a bit slower from all accounts. By rotating the brake pads at strategic intervals one can extend the time between pad changes.

Oh yeah....Gen 1's suck and guys that ride them are..well...you know..except for Bluesman, he's all right.
Oh my... :blink:

If you think Bluesman is "alright" you just lost all credibility...

:p
Yeah, I should have explained the uneven pad wear a little better.

You mean I HAD any credibility to begin with?! Dayum!

 
hmm, interesting way of putting it. I like the idea. Is it really a 5 minute job, remember, I never done it on a bike. On a car yes, many times, but never on FJR. And when I hear the scrape, an I hearing Metal to Metal or just that pin that some car pads have.

So, just so I'm clear, if the groove is gone on the pad or close to being gone, I need to replace pads, is that a correct understanding?
Drive 'em 'til they scrape...THEN replace them IMMEDIATELY. Even during your trip. Only takes about 5 minutes to do a pad change.

No sense throwing away pads with material still on 'em.
It won't be Metal to Metal, and Yes! It does take 5 minutes. Front ones anyway. :)

 
Have to say I was taught to clean pistons and calibers every tire change. They are off so why not? Little brake cleaner and a nylon brush and they clean as new.

I do like the tip of holding the least of the worn pads and will look at that on my first change.

 
Thanks for the info. I had no idea about the slot cut.

When the time comes to replace the pads, is there any other "brake" part I should replace?

It appears this place has the best price on OEM brakes.

https://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-3P6-W0045-00-00.html
check out www.ronayers.com

I go to them exclusively after years of great, no hassle sales at very good prices
duh and apology offered

I and others have rounded the tight as a bride caliper bolts getting them off to remove the caliper for cleaning

I keep 3 new sets on hand just in case, but always use a 3/8" 6 point socket on a long handle to break them...and probably use a 3/8" torque wrench to properly snug them up

mine are somewhat goo goo 'd, but the new ones are still in their packages...Gen I have reflectors nearby and I'm to lazy to remove them, so just force the socket on short extension onto the bolts...have to be careful the socket gets a good bit with the extension against the metal mounts of the reflectors...many just remove those things permanently

 
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