Brand new 2009AE tranny "clunking" when cold-ish

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networkguy

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FNG here...hi guys :) My intro is in the n00b section, so I wont do that here. I got a new 2009AE and although Ive only got about 55 miles on it I think Ive got the whole shifting thing down pat (I kinda like it!). After about a month of reading before I bought it, one of the things I remembered is to at least let it warm up to the first bar before riding, and to let the RPM's drop to about 1050 which Ive done; however, unless its fresh off a freeway run and 100% warm, when I start out, it "clunks" 3 or 4 times as it starts rolling, then goes away. It does this whether I start in 1st or 2nd gear, and none of the other gears clunk when shifting. Its not a surge per se, but an audible clunking and jerkiness as it starts. Ive tried also starting with the clutch partially engaged by softly pressing the read brake as I start, and Ive also tried applying the full front brake, and although I dont launch immediately, it still clunks 3-4 times.

Any ideas? All fluids are full and I also dont notice any weird smells or anything. Im thinking I may take it back to the dealer and have them look at it but wanted to run it by the experts first ;)

BTW I spent a couple hours searching both here and Google...the forum doesnt like "AE" as its too short, and I searched various ways through Google to no avail. Thanks guys (and gals!)

 
I am almost wondering if it is the "dry clutch" all the 2nd gens seem to have. I know my A model shifted like crap for the first few shifts until the clutch got coated in fluid.

 
I am almost wondering if it is the "dry clutch" all the 2nd gens seem to have. I know my A model shifted like crap for the first few shifts until the clutch got coated in fluid.
Thats a good point Ive read about that issue too. Tomorrow I'll try shifting between 1st and neutral a couple times before taking off. Seems kind of like a "ghetto" fix though....

 
The following is a list of symptoms my 2006 AE had with the YCCS, with about 26K on the clock. First time, the shop flushed and replaced the clutch actuator hydraulic fluid and soaked the clutch plates. 6 months later same problem comes back. Second trip to the service department, YES replaced the shift actuator. It's all good now for a long time. YMMV. Highly recommend getting YES with the AE.

FJR AE shifting problems.

1st problem: When cold, turn the key to the “on” position. The display reads sh_26 error code, and the bike will not start. The work around I have discovered is to turn the key to the off position and back to the on position, pulling the brake lever and hitting the start button, all in quick succession.

2nd problem: May or may not be related to the above problem. When attempting to pull away in 1st gear before the clutch has warmed up, applying light throttle, the drive train makes several hard “clunks” as if the clutch is rapidly engaging and disengaging. Application of more throttle makes the clunking disappear. At parking lot speeds, though, it is not possible to apply more throttle, therefore, the work around is to drag the rear brake while applying enough throttle to stop the “clunking”.

3rd problem: May or may not be related to either of the above problems. After getting under way for the first time during the day, the YCCS is reluctant to shift down. When I leave my house first thing in the morning, approaching the first stop sign, if I shift from 2nd to 1st or 3rd to 2nd, nothing happens right away. It will usually be several seconds before the shifter actually makes the commanded down shift.

4th item: The one thing all the above have in common is that they only occur when starting and riding after the bike has sat overnight and completely cooled down. I just completed a 3 day 1000 mile jaunt around Oregon and had this series of problems every morning. Then during the rest of the day, the YCCS performed perfectly.

 
The following is a list of symptoms my 2006 AE had with the YCCS, with about 26K on the clock. First time, the shop flushed and replaced the clutch actuator hydraulic fluid and soaked the clutch plates. 6 months later same problem comes back. Second trip to the service department, YES replaced the shift actuator. It's all good now for a long time. YMMV. Highly recommend getting YES with the AE.

FJR AE shifting problems.

1st problem: When cold, turn the key to the “on” position. The display reads sh_26 error code, and the bike will not start. The work around I have discovered is to turn the key to the off position and back to the on position, pulling the brake lever and hitting the start button, all in quick succession.

2nd problem: May or may not be related to the above problem. When attempting to pull away in 1st gear before the clutch has warmed up, applying light throttle, the drive train makes several hard “clunks” as if the clutch is rapidly engaging and disengaging. Application of more throttle makes the clunking disappear. At parking lot speeds, though, it is not possible to apply more throttle, therefore, the work around is to drag the rear brake while applying enough throttle to stop the “clunking”.

3rd problem: May or may not be related to either of the above problems. After getting under way for the first time during the day, the YCCS is reluctant to shift down. When I leave my house first thing in the morning, approaching the first stop sign, if I shift from 2nd to 1st or 3rd to 2nd, nothing happens right away. It will usually be several seconds before the shifter actually makes the commanded down shift.

4th item: The one thing all the above have in common is that they only occur when starting and riding after the bike has sat overnight and completely cooled down. I just completed a 3 day 1000 mile jaunt around Oregon and had this series of problems every morning. Then during the rest of the day, the YCCS performed perfectly.

 
The following is a list of symptoms my 2006 AE had with the YCCS, with about 26K on the clock. First time, the shop flushed and replaced the clutch actuator hydraulic fluid and soaked the clutch plates. 6 months later same problem comes back. Second trip to the service department, YES replaced the shift actuator. It's all good now for a long time. YMMV. Highly recommend getting YES with the AE.

FJR AE shifting problems.

1st problem: When cold, turn the key to the “on” position. The display reads sh_26 error code, and the bike will not start. The work around I have discovered is to turn the key to the off position and back to the on position, pulling the brake lever and hitting the start button, all in quick succession.

2nd problem: May or may not be related to the above problem. When attempting to pull away in 1st gear before the clutch has warmed up, applying light throttle, the drive train makes several hard “clunks” as if the clutch is rapidly engaging and disengaging. Application of more throttle makes the clunking disappear. At parking lot speeds, though, it is not possible to apply more throttle, therefore, the work around is to drag the rear brake while applying enough throttle to stop the “clunking”.

3rd problem: May or may not be related to either of the above problems. After getting under way for the first time during the day, the YCCS is reluctant to shift down. When I leave my house first thing in the morning, approaching the first stop sign, if I shift from 2nd to 1st or 3rd to 2nd, nothing happens right away. It will usually be several seconds before the shifter actually makes the commanded down shift.

4th item: The one thing all the above have in common is that they only occur when starting and riding after the bike has sat overnight and completely cooled down. I just completed a 3 day 1000 mile jaunt around Oregon and had this series of problems every morning. Then during the rest of the day, the YCCS performed perfectly.

 
dustyrains: Thanks for your reply (holy triple post batman!)Yes, I got YES when I bought the bike (2 days ago lol). I think I'll take it in on Wednesday and have the shop look at it.

This morning, I let it warm up to one bar, and shifted from N to 1st 3 times before engaging, and still had the 3-4 clunks at takeoff. Taking off full throttle (well, as full as I can being a new bike and in a parking lot haha) still produces a couple clunks as it gets going (along with a small chirp from the tire hehe). After a 15 minute freeway run to work, no clunks.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated!

 
dustyrains: Thanks for your reply (holy triple post batman!)Yes, I got YES when I bought the bike (2 days ago lol). I think I'll take it in on Wednesday and have the shop look at it.

This morning, I let it warm up to one bar, and shifted from N to 1st 3 times before engaging, and still had the 3-4 clunks at takeoff. Taking off full throttle (well, as full as I can being a new bike and in a parking lot haha) still produces a couple clunks as it gets going (along with a small chirp from the tire hehe). After a 15 minute freeway run to work, no clunks.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated!
My 2006AE does that too. I've just ignored it for 20,000 miles.

 
...

Any other suggestions would be appreciated!
I have to agree with Scoobyvroom, a clutch soak might be the answer.

A dry clutch has to make the controlling computer try to compensate. As you increase the engine RPM, the clutch starts to engage. Then the clutch grabs, the computer detects a rapid drop in engine revs, so it pulls the plates apart. All of a sudden, the clutch unsticks, the engine revs rise, and the cycle repeats, rattling the actuators and the transmission.

It may be difficult to persuade your dealer to do the soak on his coin (I don't think Yamaha officially recognise a dry clutch issue), but it would only be an hour or so of his time.

Or, you could do it yourself; it would cost you a gasket (probably about $10 or $15), a little oil, and an hour or so of your time, a relatively easy job. I offer my pictorial How-to.

(Click on image for larger view)



 
I just dropped mine off at the dealer to get it looked at - I have had the exact same problem since I got it - mine is also a 2009 AE. Will let you know what they tell me if you're interested. I am not sure I will keep the bike - I have found that I miss having the clutch lever.

 
I just dropped mine off at the dealer to get it looked at - I have had the exact same problem since I got it - mine is also a 2009 AE. Will let you know what they tell me if you're interested. I am not sure I will keep the bike - I have found that I miss having the clutch lever.
I like the AE in the few days Ive had it, but yah...let me know what the dealer says. I made an appt for mine on Wednesday.

mcatrophy: Thanks for the linky. Honestly? Ive read a few threads about a clutch soak, and knowing myself, I would F it up. I'll talk to the dealer about when I go in on Wednesday though as it seems some have had luck getting them to do it.

 
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Shifting in and out of gear has nothing to do with the clutch. I think what you're describing is clutch chatter, and removing the discs and soaking them overnight is the fix for that.

The YCCS computer makes some assumptions when it engages the clutch, and one of those assumptions is that the friction takeup is smooth. If it isn't, you'll get some driveline lash.

 
Shifting in and out of gear has nothing to do with the clutch. I think what you're describing is clutch chatter, and removing the discs and soaking them overnight is the fix for that.

The YCCS computer makes some assumptions when it engages the clutch, and one of those assumptions is that the friction takeup is smooth. If it isn't, you'll get some driveline lash.
Im thinking so too...but just to be clear...it isnt what I would call chatter...its a loud CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK lol

 
Which might be the driveline taking up slack, going slack, hitting back and forth as the clutch hits and releases if it's not smooth. Just guessing, you know, since we can't hear it.

 
My 2007 A became silky smooth after a clutch soak...

In fact, it makes me think they should have located the oil fill right over the top of the clutch, so that when you do an oil change, it at least gets a 'mini-soak'.

 
I had opened this a while back, and did find things a bit better with full oil, but the clunk has definitely not gone away.

link to another thread
ahamlin01: Thats a great thread. Although when I got the bike and the tech did a "walk around" with me and showed me the oil level glass window, and noticed it was at the top, I now wonder if its at the top of the indicator of full, or top of the glass. I'll double check on my lunch today. When you say after 6-8 months the clunk hasnt gone away...when you take off is it one clunk or several like mine is doing? And is yours loud enough that anyone standing nearby would hear? Cuz mine is.

I realize Im still a n00b, but one thing I havent understood about the clutch soak...when youre freeway driving for example, oil is being spun onto the clutch while driving correct? So that would effectively be "soaking" the clutch while youre driving? Theres no denying other's results in doing the soak...theres too many that have had positive results. But Im just thinking about the mechanics of it. Whats the difference between soaking the clutch IN the bike vs OUT of the bike in a pan or ziplock baggie?

 
ahamlin01: Thats a great thread. Although when I got the bike and the tech did a "walk around" with me and showed me the oil level glass window, and noticed it was at the top, I now wonder if its at the top of the indicator of full, or top of the glass. I'll double check on my lunch today. When you say after 6-8 months the clunk hasnt gone away...when you take off is it one clunk or several like mine is doing? And is yours loud enough that anyone standing nearby would hear? Cuz mine is.
It clunks several times - like 5 or 6 - and it is very noticeable/loud enough for anyone nearby to hear. It will continue to clunk when starting off in first until I have gone several miles. So if there are 5 stop signs within the first couple minutes... it'll clunk at each one, but less each time. Seems like after maybe 2-5 minutes of riding it is gone.

 
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