Break in, 600 mile maintenance?

[mdisher]

I'd order one from Yamaha Clicky
The one's on e-bay are boot-legged. What you save on the 600 mile break-in service will buy several manuals.

Edit: I changed final drive oil at 300 miles, it was very very dirty!

Thanks, I found an honest to goodness Yamaha manual on eBay (paper based) my favorite kind anyway, easier to work with in the garage.

Ordered it today.

After much research I'm going to do it myself. Have 300 miles on it now. Waiting for manual and the weekend to roll around.

I haven't peeled all the tupperware off yet, only the pieces that I needed to move some farkles. Looks like proping the tank up is the way to go.

Do you only need to remove the side panels and the two top tank bolts to do that?

-MD

 

[temp357]

Now you've done it, buying an illegal paper copy off of ebay. Someone call the cops!

 

[kaitsdad]

I'd order one from Yamaha Clicky

The one's on e-bay are boot-legged. What you save on the 600 mile break-in service will buy several manuals.

Edit: I changed final drive oil at 300 miles, it was very very dirty!

Thanks, I found an honest to goodness Yamaha manual on eBay (paper based) my favorite kind anyway, easier to work with in the garage.

Ordered it today.

After much research I'm going to do it myself. Have 300 miles on it now. Waiting for manual and the weekend to roll around.

I haven't peeled all the tupperware off yet, only the pieces that I needed to move some farkles. Looks like proping the tank up is the way to go.

Do you only need to remove the side panels and the two top tank bolts to do that?

-MD

MD, I'd make darn sure that your new manual is for the 06 - it's substantially different than earlier models. As to propping the tank up, it's different on the 06 - you will need to loosen, if not remove the pinch bolt at the rear of the tank. You risk bending the tab 'ears' on the tank if you don't. Personally, I just remove the pinch bolt, that allows me to move the tank backwards as well, which makes removing the heat shield easier and quicker. It also gives me more room to reach the componenets - TBS adjusters, throttle spring, etc.

But make darn sure your manual is for the 06 - and the only place I've seen those for sale (legally) is from Yamaha. Word.

 

[mdisher]

I'd order one from Yamaha Clicky

The one's on e-bay are boot-legged. What you save on the 600 mile break-in service will buy several manuals.

Edit: I changed final drive oil at 300 miles, it was very very dirty!

Thanks, I found an honest to goodness Yamaha manual on eBay (paper based) my favorite kind anyway, easier to work with in the garage.

Ordered it today.

[snip]

-MD

MD, I'd make darn sure that your new manual is for the 06 - it's substantially different than earlier models. As to propping the tank up, it's different on the 06 - you will need to loosen, if not remove the pinch bolt at the rear of the tank. You risk bending the tab 'ears' on the tank if you don't. Personally, I just remove the pinch bolt, that allows me to move the tank backwards as well, which makes removing the heat shield easier and quicker. It also gives me more room to reach the componenets - TBS adjusters, throttle spring, etc.

But make darn sure your manual is for the 06 - and the only place I've seen those for sale (legally) is from Yamaha. Word.

Well it's advertised as an 06 and the photo is accurate. Yamaha is sold out.

The guy has good feedback too. It may be a bootleg copy, but I'm ok with that in this case because I'm not sure I have a capable dealer in my area anyway.

-MD

 

[panthercity]

Is that anything like "Well, I robbed the gas station because there's not an ATM from my bank in the area."???

 

[mdisher]

Is that anything like "Well, I robbed the gas station because there's not an ATM from my bank in the area."???

Yep, just like that... :yahoo:

 

[Rickster]

Some 600 miles maintenance notes.

AE model, April/06 MFG date.

Rear Diff fluid very dark, very dirty.

Final Drive Axle spline lube was just fine (many report of inadequate lube from the factory). It was very hard to get the acorn nuts torqued properly on re-install as there's not much room to get a torque wrench in the area. Wheel to diff spline didn't have much lube at all, used Honda Moly 60 paste applied with an acid brush to keep the application thin -- Radman reported slinging some off, so made sure very little was applied.

Oil Drain bolt very difficult to unscrew -- I don't believe that they are overtorqued, but just have very high static friction on the bolt flange to the crush washer. Replaced crush washers with copper oil drain gaskets (should last several oil changes and only cost $.98) Torqued to factory spec with no problems or 'stripping' as others have reported.

Steering head tube bearings torque is correct from the factory (less than 0.001" travel measured at the stem nut with a dial guage on the tank after checking the torque).

YCCS (AE) Advise: Check the clutch reservoir orientation -- mine was tilted back keeping fluid in contact with the lid gasket. Just loosen the attaching bolt, and straighten until the fluid is level in the container with the bike on the side stand.

Double check all torques (I haven't seen a dealer do this yet.) I found a few loose.

 

[mdisher]

Thank you Rick, very good info. I need to put another 150 or so miles on it and I'll be good to go. Plan on performing this service Sunday.

I've already picked up crush washers, and the lube's from Yamaha. (I know I should use a better oil but since I'm doing the 600 mile myself I figure buying Yama-20-40 and having reciepts will only help me in the long run).

What are these copper drain gaskets you speak of?

-MD

 

[Rickster]

Thank you Rick, very good info. I need to put another 150 or so miles on it and I'll be good to go. Plan on performing this service Sunday.
I've already picked up crush washers, and the lube's from Yamaha. (I know I should use a better oil but since I'm doing the 600 mile myself I figure buying Yama-20-40 and having reciepts will only help me in the long run).

What are these copper drain gaskets you speak of?

-MD

You can use copper oil drain gaskets in place of the factory crush washers. The factory crush washers are single use only, and the copper ones can be used over and over. Copper one's are avail at most any auto parts place, for about $.99 each. The same size fits the oil drain plug, AND both of the diff screws (drain and fill bolts).

From then bin-o-facts clicky

Tip: Copper replacement if you chose not to use OEM oil drain crush washer:

Auto part store: 1/2" 12MM O.S. (M14) DRN. Plug Gasket Skew: 0 80358 18128