Broken rear subframe
- Thread starter jwhite518
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jwhite518
Well-known member
WTF? He never mentioned that to me, just sent me a PDF of the 3 point mount racks. I even told him I was mounting a Peli case to it.
jwhite518
Well-known member
OK I just read Matt's post about the electro-whatzit-stuff that TIG welding generates. Do I really need to remove the subframe to have it fixed? How about if I just disconnect everything from both battery posts? That should eliminate anything that's frame grounded from being in contact with the frame. Yes I'm lazy. Has anyone had their subframe welded in place? I found someone locally, worst case is if he screws up I can have the guy in Sac fix it. Or buy a new one. Or just drop out of rallying. 
By the way, I win the prize for most grenaded rear subframe. Nobody has more gruesome photos! :bb:
By the way, I win the prize for most grenaded rear subframe. Nobody has more gruesome photos! :bb:
dsmack
"Old, Slow, but Lucky"
Removing the connections from the battery won't do anything to prevent the possible feed of current through bearings during the welding process... that is a function of the high resistance arc needed for the welding process, and the current is supplied by the welding apparatus.
It is only sometimes a problem, caused when the ground clamp is not placed close enough to the "action", encouraging the welding current to try to find alternative routes to ground, sometimes through unfortunate areas like the suspension points or wheel bearings. As said, it only happens sometimes, but I'm reminded of the old Clint Eastwood line: "Do you feel lucky, Punk?.... Well, do ya?"
If it were my parts, I'd take time to remove them, as repairing any potential damage will be both time consuming and expensive.
YMMV of course!
Don
It is only sometimes a problem, caused when the ground clamp is not placed close enough to the "action", encouraging the welding current to try to find alternative routes to ground, sometimes through unfortunate areas like the suspension points or wheel bearings. As said, it only happens sometimes, but I'm reminded of the old Clint Eastwood line: "Do you feel lucky, Punk?.... Well, do ya?"
If it were my parts, I'd take time to remove them, as repairing any potential damage will be both time consuming and expensive.
YMMV of course!
Don
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I concur. Tobie's at 100K+ had several little pieces loose lying in the bottom, but it wasn't free chunks as yours.
And I know the frustration of removing the subframe, but I did some Googling and the way I understand it...it's not about whether something gets zapped by a ground, but the fundamental electromagnetic field generated by TIG that can fry things. You could have a computer loose sitting on a table near the weld site and zap it. In my case, the guy wouldn't do the welding with it attached so I bit the bullet and felt a bit better that something didn't die later (as in '07 IBR).
That said, both Tobie and Lisa had theirs welded on the bike and didn't suffer any apparent damage.
ABP was a bonus location in 2003 that I opted out of for 2 reasons:
1. I figured the FJR wasn't a dual sport bike.
2. I'm not wealthy enough to sacrifice my bike for any combination of bonuses just to win a $25 plaque.
1. I figured the FJR wasn't a dual sport bike.
2. I'm not wealthy enough to sacrifice my bike for any combination of bonuses just to win a $25 plaque.
jwhite518
Well-known member
Update: After the welder saw the photos, he recommended reinforcing an intact unit. To try to repair the existing damage and then reinforce it, probably wouldn't last. That's the route I'm going, with a unit from a salvage yard. I'll make sure the salvage subframe is square and fits properly before welding it. Looking forward to using Iggy's guide to subframe removal.
Re Bounce's comment: I'd like to have the option to go offroad during the rally. It's not about the cash value of the plaque, it's about doing the best I possibly can. I'd rather make routing decisions when the rally pack arrives, not three months before the start.
Re Bounce's comment: I'd like to have the option to go offroad during the rally. It's not about the cash value of the plaque, it's about doing the best I possibly can. I'd rather make routing decisions when the rally pack arrives, not three months before the start.
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
ABP was not a big deal on an FJR for me.
After completing some of the bonii Steve Chalmers has sent us to during the Utah1088, it was no problem at all. Of course it was dry, and if it had been wet..........well, that would have been a different story.
And Bounce, you of all should know it's not just about 'a $25 plaque'. Frankly, I am a bit disappointed in that statement.
With as busted up as that one is...that's probably a wise move. With that thing out...you can really get a sense of the overall design and see that the square tubing part of the frame seems to be a better material than the stubbed out end...and can probably beef it up pretty well. I also know Tobie and Lisa added a couple of struts from their plates...which would be a different way to go than I did.
My gas tank level sending unit.....vibrated so much up and back to ABF that it was whacky until I fueled up in Bishop. My newly welded and gusseted subframe? Happy as a monolithic clam. Grossvenor.....I think contributed signficantly to the death of my original steering head bearings. The FJR ain't no XR650R, but it's better than a GS.
jwhite518
Well-known member
That's my plan too. Adding a reinforcing plate between the frame and the tail lights, something beefy along the base where those thin gussets are, and then some struts tied to the strong part of the frame.
Also underway, I'm addressing it with Garauld. I'll let you know if anything comes of that. Our original email conversation had a subject line of Peli rack for 05 FJR. Maybe he didn't expect me to take it offroad. :blink:
That grenaded piece is going up on the shelf with my rally bra and plaques. Heck, you have to have a sense of humor about this stuff.
just roy
Well-known member
TIG when it starts imparts a very high frequency ac current into the base metal. on a vehicle with electronics it is a crap shoot on damage or not. i would unplug the cpu at least and every other plug i could reach. also good grounding will help a lot. always try to ground to a spot sanded clean and on the same piece of metal you are welding to.
true. it's about the tens of thousands of dollars spent working up to The Big Ride so that, if you win, people MIGHT remember your name until the next one.And Bounce, you of all should know it's not just about 'a $25 plaque'. Frankly, I am a bit disappointed in that statement.
i've seen people ruin their bikes by packing it in the Haul Road muck that broke off body parts, jammed up brakes, and set up like concrete (taking literally years of work to fix), sub frames broken on bikes that are not (and never were) dual sports bikes, and so on. some people have no problems with sacrificing their ride for an attempted win.
but then some people have been heard to claim that all riders should be expected to "risk it all" or not enter. and by "it" they meant the big dirt nap. when competing in rallies against people with that mind set, a finish, a running bike, a fun time, and a safe return were enough for me to consider it a success. the 4 years of debt recovery were something else, but that's why it truly is a "once in a lifetime" experience for some.
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jwhite518
Well-known member
Joe2Lmaker
Well-known member
John does nice work.
How did this end up affecting your rally schedule?
Are you going to the grab rail with your Pelican case?
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
Wait until you have to replace a taillight bulb!
Just hope it wasn't like Iggy in the parking lot of the Utah1088 hdqtrs just before the rally!
Just hope it wasn't like Iggy in the parking lot of the Utah1088 hdqtrs just before the rally!
Nice!
Now you could do something like Bristlecone and feel comfortable that something totally different might break.
jwhite518
Well-known member
jwhite518
Well-known member
Yes he does.
Not at all. See you on the Cal 24 starting line next Friday.
No. Sticking with the Garauld.
Canadian FJR
Canadian FJR
I just returned home to find my rear sub-frame in the same shape as yours. I'll get some pics together later. :angry:
I wonder if that little ride to the Hudson Bay had anything to do with it
Canadian FJR
I wonder if that little ride to the Hudson Bay had anything to do with it
Canadian FJR
I think the problem here is that the rear sub-frame is a cast aluminum piece. Even with the reinforcements, it will likely just break in a new un-reinforced location.
like here:
like here:
