OK, here goes the relaxed part of the journey.
Part Nine: Superior National Forest
After my ten hours of blissful slumber, I woke up to a breakfast fit for a horde of exhausted, famished Pony Express riders. It was delicious. Piles of cheesy scrambled eggs, sausages, and a pot of piping coffee accompanied joyous conversation, punctuated by laughter. It was one of those blissful Saturday mornings when everyone is just content to linger around the table, chit-chatting. Another mug of coffee? Yes please. I get to see my cousin and his family a couple of times a year, and I really look forward to hang out with them every chance I get.
Eventually, around noon, we decide that if we’re going riding, we might as well get on it. We initially set a target of halfway between Duluth and Canada as a loose destination. My cousin rides a carbed Vulcan, and we spent a bit of time wrenching to put his windshield on.
We finally rolled out, later than anticipated, heading north on a gorgeous sunny day. Not too hot, not too cold. We stopped for gas and conversation a couple times before rolling into Duluth, where we made lunch at
Big Daddy’s Burgers our first priority:
Yes, it was delicious. Yes, it was exactly what I was hungry for after a day eating out of my top case. Loads of fries, delicious bacon burger with cheddar, sauteed onions, and BBQ sauce.
We lingered over lunch before heading north. We stayed as close to the lake as possible, drinking in the aromatic lilacs and realizing how incredibly, remarkably beautiful the coastline is. And how incredibly, remarkably cold the wind off the lake is.
The air temperature dropped by six degrees, and it felt colder than that! I zipped up my vents, flicked on my heated grips, and raised the windshield. We saw enormous cargo ships, ore loading stations, sailboats, and mile and after mile of lovely, curvy coastline.
At
Silver Bay, we pulled into a state park with a boat launch to feel the water. Good gracious it was cold! So cold that I saw my cousin’s breath, and that the water dripping off boats and trailers was steaming on the asphalt, still warm from the sun.
We talked about route planning, figuring we would turn left into
Finland and follow Highway 1 through
Superior National Forest to Highway 53, then jog south and home. Based on our estimates, that put us home around midnight. Did I mention auxiliary lights are pretty much essential for late night riding?
We motored on up the road and swing west towards Finland, where we stopped for gas. We noticed a curious thing that appeared to be normal in rural Minnesota - the local gas station (which also sold live bait, most convenience items, etc) combined with the post office.
Even though the store itself was shut tight, the pumps were on. Where would we be without pay at the pump?
Highway 1 is proof that taxes are worth paying. The road was simply immaculate. Imagine a freshly paved ribbon of asphalt, draped across streams, lakes, hills, and an intensely aromatic pine forest. Now imagine perfect weather conditions and perhaps 6 other cars in two hours of riding. Road-going heaven, to be sure.
The road was delightfully curvy - I could have easily spent a day going back and forth, working on those pesky chicken strips. A blissful place with stunning natural beauty.
We gassed up near Ely and started the journey home. My faith in humanity was restored when I saw this sign:
Of course, there was no hose...
Rolling south, we had to pause for a photo opportunity just as the sun was starting to set:
We stopped for gas at another Post Office:
The cashier confirmed what our GPS had been trying to tell us - we didn’t need to go to Duluth in order to pick up I-35 south. About six miles across pitch black two-lane roads would get us on a more direct path.
We brought our helmets inside so as to minimize the chance of having mosquitoes fly in as we were putting them on. Let me tell you, getting a bug sucked in through the scoop vent on top of the helmet is not the most fun you can have, especially when you feel it crawling around on your bald head. I wonder if hair minimizes the sensation?
Anyway, we saddled up and slowly headed west to pick up 33, which would take us to I-35. I led the way, aux lights all fired up.
Have you ever driven in a snowstorm and flicked on the bright lights? It’s really difficult to see, as you can see all the flakes falling. Well, we mimicked that sensation, except there was no snow - just bugs. Lots of bugs. Thousands of bugs. Enough bugs that I wondered if we would get some type of recognition from the locals for eliminating a quarter of the bug population. I put my windshield all the way up, just so the bike would take the brunt of it and leave my face shield clear. Wishful thinking…
That said, the bike did do it’s fair share:
The rest of our ride back to Eagan went very smoothly. Lots of traffic on I-35, but not as many bugs, thanks to all the traffic? There were a couple of trailers that had no lights at all - downright dangerous. I wouldn’t have minded if the police we saw pulled them over and wrote them up.
Arriving home around 1 am, it was a little too late for a fire pit, so we took a raincheck and just went to bed.
Here is the
trace for our actual route - a nice 600+ mile loop.
The next day, we simply hung out, had an amazing salmon steak dinner, and cashed in on that raincheck:
More to come.