Bun Burner Gold and Subsequent Wanderings

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Well, written; thoroughly enjoyed it. Tic-Tacs are the secret, eh? Thanks for the tip!

 
Well, written; thoroughly enjoyed it. Tic-Tacs are the secret, eh? Thanks for the tip!
Tic Tacs and lube for the earplugs - the former keep the mouth engaged, the latter form a nice tight seal and make the plugs more comfortable.

 
Nice! Thoroughly enjoyed reading this. Wife and I are planning our first IBA cert ride for sometime this year and reading these is a big help and incentive. Congrats on a job well done!

 
Nice! Thoroughly enjoyed reading this. Wife and I are planning our first IBA cert ride for sometime this year and reading these is a big help and incentive. Congrats on a job well done!
Wow, cool - two-up, or on separate bikes? I'm pretty sure my wife would never go for an IBA ride. She likes riding with me - we had a great tour from Las Vegas, over the Hoover Dam, down to Sedona, over the mountains to Jerome, back on Route 66 - but she's more about the destination than the ride.

Best of luck on the adventure, and be sure to write up an RR!

 
Great report, thank you.
What did you use for earplug lube?

LD gear is great!!!!!!!
For the earplugs, I use Neosporin or the equivalent. The way I figure, if the plug vibrates in my ear and causes minor irritation, having Neo is a good thing. Either way, I find that having a viscous fluid as a sealer helps make a tighter seal between my ear and the plug. Super comfortable.

 
OK, here goes the relaxed part of the journey.

Part Nine: Superior National Forest




After my ten hours of blissful slumber, I woke up to a breakfast fit for a horde of exhausted, famished Pony Express riders. It was delicious. Piles of cheesy scrambled eggs, sausages, and a pot of piping coffee accompanied joyous conversation, punctuated by laughter. It was one of those blissful Saturday mornings when everyone is just content to linger around the table, chit-chatting. Another mug of coffee? Yes please. I get to see my cousin and his family a couple of times a year, and I really look forward to hang out with them every chance I get.
Eventually, around noon, we decide that if we’re going riding, we might as well get on it. We initially set a target of halfway between Duluth and Canada as a loose destination. My cousin rides a carbed Vulcan, and we spent a bit of time wrenching to put his windshield on.
We finally rolled out, later than anticipated, heading north on a gorgeous sunny day. Not too hot, not too cold. We stopped for gas and conversation a couple times before rolling into Duluth, where we made lunch at Big Daddy’s Burgers our first priority:

lunch.jpg


Yes, it was delicious. Yes, it was exactly what I was hungry for after a day eating out of my top case. Loads of fries, delicious bacon burger with cheddar, sauteed onions, and BBQ sauce.
We lingered over lunch before heading north. We stayed as close to the lake as possible, drinking in the aromatic lilacs and realizing how incredibly, remarkably beautiful the coastline is. And how incredibly, remarkably cold the wind off the lake is.
The air temperature dropped by six degrees, and it felt colder than that! I zipped up my vents, flicked on my heated grips, and raised the windshield. We saw enormous cargo ships, ore loading stations, sailboats, and mile and after mile of lovely, curvy coastline.
At Silver Bay, we pulled into a state park with a boat launch to feel the water. Good gracious it was cold! So cold that I saw my cousin’s breath, and that the water dripping off boats and trailers was steaming on the asphalt, still warm from the sun.
We talked about route planning, figuring we would turn left into Finland and follow Highway 1 through Superior National Forest to Highway 53, then jog south and home. Based on our estimates, that put us home around midnight. Did I mention auxiliary lights are pretty much essential for late night riding?
We motored on up the road and swing west towards Finland, where we stopped for gas. We noticed a curious thing that appeared to be normal in rural Minnesota - the local gas station (which also sold live bait, most convenience items, etc) combined with the post office.


finland.jpg

Even though the store itself was shut tight, the pumps were on. Where would we be without pay at the pump?
Highway 1 is proof that taxes are worth paying. The road was simply immaculate. Imagine a freshly paved ribbon of asphalt, draped across streams, lakes, hills, and an intensely aromatic pine forest. Now imagine perfect weather conditions and perhaps 6 other cars in two hours of riding. Road-going heaven, to be sure.
The road was delightfully curvy - I could have easily spent a day going back and forth, working on those pesky chicken strips. A blissful place with stunning natural beauty.
We gassed up near Ely and started the journey home. My faith in humanity was restored when I saw this sign:

air.jpg

Of course, there was no hose...

Rolling south, we had to pause for a photo opportunity just as the sun was starting to set:

snf.jpg


snf2.jpg

tasty.jpg


We stopped for gas at another Post Office:
po.jpg

The cashier confirmed what our GPS had been trying to tell us - we didn’t need to go to Duluth in order to pick up I-35 south. About six miles across pitch black two-lane roads would get us on a more direct path.
We brought our helmets inside so as to minimize the chance of having mosquitoes fly in as we were putting them on. Let me tell you, getting a bug sucked in through the scoop vent on top of the helmet is not the most fun you can have, especially when you feel it crawling around on your bald head. I wonder if hair minimizes the sensation?
Anyway, we saddled up and slowly headed west to pick up 33, which would take us to I-35. I led the way, aux lights all fired up.
Have you ever driven in a snowstorm and flicked on the bright lights? It’s really difficult to see, as you can see all the flakes falling. Well, we mimicked that sensation, except there was no snow - just bugs. Lots of bugs. Thousands of bugs. Enough bugs that I wondered if we would get some type of recognition from the locals for eliminating a quarter of the bug population. I put my windshield all the way up, just so the bike would take the brunt of it and leave my face shield clear. Wishful thinking…
splat.jpg

That said, the bike did do it’s fair share:
crusty.jpg

The rest of our ride back to Eagan went very smoothly. Lots of traffic on I-35, but not as many bugs, thanks to all the traffic? There were a couple of trailers that had no lights at all - downright dangerous. I wouldn’t have minded if the police we saw pulled them over and wrote them up.
Arriving home around 1 am, it was a little too late for a fire pit, so we took a raincheck and just went to bed.
Here is the trace for our actual route - a nice 600+ mile loop.
The next day, we simply hung out, had an amazing salmon steak dinner, and cashed in on that raincheck:
feet.jpg




More to come.
 
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Most of my mother's side of the family is from Duluth, so I know that area well.

Last half of July and you're able to smell the blooming lilacs up there? Sounds about right. They've been dead here since the end of May.

I've frozen half to death riding to and around Duluth in the middle of summer.

Good roads and scenery though.

Shane

 
Most of my mother's side of the family is from Duluth, so I know that area well.
Last half of July and you're able to smell the blooming lilacs up there? Sounds about right. They've been dead here since the end of May.

I've frozen half to death riding to and around Duluth in the middle of summer.

Good roads and scenery though.

Shane
It was wonderfully surprising to smell the lilacs - like you said, they've been gone a long time around here.

My cousin started to freeze to death, that's for sure. Lucky for him, I had a couple extra top layers and my winter gloves. He was most appreciative, as that Vulcan offers minimal protection from the wind.

Totally different kind of ride, he needed gas every 80 miles!

My brother and I did a loop of Lake Superior a three years ago - the northern shore is amazing! It's remarkably pretty:

beautiful.jpg


but our approach to Marathon was absolutely frigid - cold, rainy, foggy. This was before I installed heated grips, and I was just freezing. The next morning started out low and foggy:

cold.jpg


Then brightened for a bit, then dumped on us for three hours straight as we looped around. Nothing like waiting on the bridge to cross the Sault in the rain.

Ended up coming into the sun, had a great run up to Copper Harbor, then back down to Houghton for the night. Pizza, beer, and a great bridge:

houghton.jpg


We had a great time.

 
Great report, thank you.
What did you use for earplug lube?

LD gear is great!!!!!!!
For the earplugs, I use Neosporin or the equivalent. The way I figure, if the plug vibrates in my ear and causes minor irritation, having Neo is a good thing. Either way, I find that having a viscous fluid as a sealer helps make a tighter seal between my ear and the plug. Super comfortable.
Thanks.

I've worn custom earplugs for years. I just never thought of greasing them up.

 
Part Ten: The Inevitable Journey

After an absolutely wonderful weekend, so commenced the journey home. If you stick to the superslab, it’s a mere 520 miles or so. That said, I was in no rush. I know Wisconsin is worth getting lost in, and there is this incredibly important, powerful, and beautiful river that flows down to the Gulf of Mexico. I decided to follow it.

Buzzing down from Eagan to Hastings, I wound my way along towards Red Wing, where I discovered Lake Pepin:

lp.jpg


Which, apparently, is the birthplace of waterskiing:

ski.jpg


I puttered along the Great River Road on the Minnesota side until I got to the crossing at La Crosse. I went over the bridge and pulled into the rest area to recycle fluids, have a snack, and just relax for a bit. Stopping to smell the roses, I stuck my pin on the map in the visitor’s center:

map.jpg


A man chatted me up in the parking lot, and we had a nice long conversation about travel, children, and life in general. Turns out the man was Lin Thompson, who runs Affordable Adventures with his wife. I told him next time I made it out to the Black Hills area, I would be sure to look him up.

We parted ways after at least half an hour, with Lin heading east to Chicago to visit his daughter and me picking up the Wisconsin’s interpretation of the Great River Road. That lasted until right around Genoa, where I got inspired to leave the river behind and head east through the Wisconsin farmland. Picking up 56, I settled into the enjoyment of the curves and hills Wisconsin has to offer. Lightly trafficked on a sunny Monday afternoon, I was rolling along and having a great time.

I made a mental note to swing by New Glarus, specifically the New Glarus Bakery:

ng.jpg


Why the bakery when New Glarus is also home to a most excellent brewery? Why, to pick up an order of nut horns, of course. What are nut horns? Pure delight. You can read about them or order them here, but I recommend going in person - it’s a great excuse to go riding!

My destination for the day was Chicago to have dinner with my brother and sister-in-law, so I continued east/southeast. No route, per se, just following the smallest roads possible.

My brother was still working when I got to Chicago, so I swung by. His boss came out and congratulated me on the BBG (the Spot link was a favorite of the entire place on Friday), and said, “Man, your bike is destroyed! Pull it in and I’ll have one of the guys wash it!”

That was about the kindest thing I’d heard all day. The Minnesota Bug Storm had encrusted the front of the FJR in about ¼ inch of residue, and the journey east in the sun just baked them on. I appreciatively pulled in with my disgusting bike:

buggy.jpg


I relaxed, had some water, and looked at some really cool cars:

targa.jpg


I just have a thing for blue:

wheel.jpg


When my brother was ready to roll out, I went and got my bike. Little did I know someone had taken away the old one and replaced it with a brand new 2006 FJR, modified just like mine!

clean.jpg


The guys did an absolutely amazing job - the old girl still turns heads and cleans up pretty well.

We danced through traffic on the way downtown, where his wife had made an absolutely killer feast - pasta with prosciutto and leeks, cold cuts, and these insane cream cheese brownies. Amazing.

I originally planned on riding home that night, but the conversation, company, and meal conspired against me. I gave into temptation, accepted a beer, and just unwound completely. Just a fantastic evening!

The next morning, I woke up and was rolling by 05:00 CST, beating the Chicago traffic and heading east. I headed straight home, pulled into the garage I had left about 100 hours and 2700 miles ago. Darted inside, shaved, showered, and headed to work.

The entire day seemed like it passed in slow motion. Hard to get back into daily life after an extended weekend behind bars.

What lucky, lucky people we are to live in a time and place where we can enjoy machines like these, which transport us to unknown places, to people both familiar and unfamiliar, and home again.

Here's the trace for the journey home. Until the next adventure...

 
Sharif,

I tried the neosporin last weekend. I like it. Much easier to get the plugs in and very comfortable. I'll be using it on all my longer trips in the future. Thanks for the tip.

 
I tried the neosporin last weekend. I like it. Much easier to get the plugs in and very comfortable. I'll be using it on all my longer trips in the future. Thanks for the tip.
Right on - not sure where I picked that trick up, but am happy others are finding it useful!

 

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