buying high mileage FJR

[Diablo1]

Considering a Gen 2, verify with your own eyes that the recalls for ignition switch and sub harness were actually done. In my case, Yamaha records showed the recalls were done, but they never were done, and I had to do the repairs myself after getting stranded. Shady dealers can commit recall fraud and Yamaha apparently can’t figure it out.

 

[Bumlinger]

I recently bought a 2010 with 25k miles. I changed oil & filter, new tires, topped up the coolant and rode it from Minneapolis to Virginia and back in 10 days. Went to the BMW rally in Doswell. 3009 miles total. I need to do a valve check next. Other than fairly severe front brake judder, it ran like a top. Question, how can one tell if the ignition switch and sub harness recalls were done? I entered my VIN into the website and nothing shows up.

 

[torch]

Ross' list reminded me of a couple I missed:
Fork seals (once). Bushings were also replaced since I was in there, but weren't really worn down.
Brake and clutch lines were replaced with braided stainless after a few years to restore the feel permanently.
Several batteries, before I figured out the hot crank problem was really a starter issue, not a 1 year old battery issue.
One headlight bulb.
TPS (by dealer, on recall).
Curb feelers. On each side. Twice. Because the Gen I really encourages that sort of riding. ;-)

 

[Diablo1]

I recently bought a 2010 with 25k miles. I changed oil & filter, new tires, topped up the coolant and rode it from Minneapolis to Virginia and back in 10 days. Went to the BMW rally in Doswell. 3009 miles total. I need to do a valve check next. Other than fairly severe front brake judder, it ran like a top. Question, how can one tell if the ignition switch and sub harness recalls were done? I entered my VIN into the website and nothing shows up.

Lift the tank and look for the sub harness and ignition switch to identify. Go to your dealer and ask them to print out the dealer recall bulletin which has pictures and part numbers to identify new improved switch and sub harness.

 

[Bumlinger]

Lift the tank and look for the sub harness and ignition switch to identify. Go to your dealer and ask them to print out the dealer recall bulletin which has pictures and part numbers to identify new improved switch and sub harness.

Thanks for your reply! Very helpful.

 

[Diablo1]

Also, look at the serial number stamped into the frame by the steering neck. When the recall is done according to the Yamaha bulletin, the mechanic is supposed to punch marks next to the serial number. If the frame isn’t stamped, then it’s most likely that the recall wasn’t done.

 

[Bumlinger]

Also, look at the serial number stamped into the frame by the steering neck. When the recall is done according to the Yamaha bulletin, the mechanic is supposed to punch marks next to the serial number. If the frame isn’t stamped, then it’s most likely that the recall wasn’t done.

I got in there to check the VIN number, there are no other marks on that surface other than the serial number. Probably not done.

 

[Diablo1]

I just checked the recall bulletins. the ground wire junction recall is for 2006-2009 FJR1300. The ignition switch recall is for 2006-2008, and certain 2009 FJRs. If yours is a 2010 model, those two recall’s don’t apply.

 

[Bumlinger]

I just checked the recall bulletins. the ground wire junction recall is for 2006-2009 FJR1300. The ignition switch recall is for 2006-2008, and certain 2009 FJRs. If yours is a 2010 model, those two recall’s don’t apply.

Just checked with my local dealer and he looked up the bike on his computer. It listed a minor repair to the windscreen mechanism and no other repairs under warranty or any recalls that were left to do. Looks like a 2010 had those bulletins and recalls done at the factory! Thanks for the info, it verifies what my dealer service department told me.

 

[Ludwig61]

I went and looked at a 2003 FJR with 185k miles. It looked really good, started up from cold instantly, doesn't smoke, no fluid leaks. It has some minor scratches on the fairing where it looks like it fell over at one point. Zero farkles, so I'll need to at least add auxillary lights and heated grips, but other than that it looks decent.

I didn't get to ride it because the weather is really crummy right now, so I don't have a good feel for how worn out it feels, but...

What do I need to look out for?

What about pricing? kbb says 5k, initial asking price (it's at a dealer) is $3600. I'm thinking more like $2500 because of the miles.

Although it has good brakes and tires, so presumably I could just start riding it without doing a refurb work.

Thoughts?

I'll sell you my 2005 with < 130K with lots of farkles for $1500. I'm not the first owner. I got it with 72K from a Milwaukee area dealer in 2014 when I lived in Columbus, Ohio. Previous owner had put on an RDL; heated grips (I've been told they are the kind dealers put on back in the day); Stem phone mount; and front fork brace. I added a Garauld stiffy; SHAD SH48 with Admore lights; Project R taillights; Racetech fork springs and valves; T-Rex no-cut front sliders; R-Gaza saddlebag protectors; FZ-1 (Amazon/Emgo) mirrors; FOBO Bike 2 with metal stems; BigFoot; wig-wag headlights.

It is my current daily ride. More than 2/3 left on the Pirelli Angel GTs.

What doesn't work - the rear ABS. Front has worked fine on every occasion it has been called (shakes the @$#* out of you). A little research and you'll find the rear ABS failing on Gen I is pretty common, maybe even normal. If the one at the dealer has ABS, try locking the rear. Mine wasn't working when I bought it but I didn't realize it at the time. ALSO the left tail running light is normally out. Brakes and turn signals work fine. I think that happened when I was rear ended by a bicyclist. That bike has been rear-ended by bicylists twice. The first time it got knocked over into the gravel by the side of the road. The second time I think they did something to the running light, and the tail shell is cracked on the right side above the saddlebag. The first time I replaced the right fairing and sent both saddlebags off to our own Garauld to get sanded and painted. The AGM seems to be getting weak, so I'll throw in the Shorai that's been in my 2016 (and I've replaced with an Antigravity in that bike). There is a throttle lock where the screw that mounts it to the throttle cable housing has vibrated out, so it isn't working.

Worst thing that has happened to the bike since I got it was high-siding in unmarked gravel in an unmarked construction zone. I was going slow, but locked the back end and it came around. The bike slid 18 inches or less on it's side. I replaced the right fairing. I got the saddlebag repainted several years later by Garauld as noted above.

I'd call it a 20ft bike. Looks great from 20 feet. Get close and you can start seeing the little blemishes. Probably not much different than the 2003 you are looking at.

If you don't want mine and want the dealer's, and theirs is an ABS model, demonstrating that the rear ABS doesn't work might get the price down a bit for you.

Comes with a spare 2003 windshield; a spare moderately scratched right fairing; a Power Commander (not attached), and an MC Cruise for both a 2005 ABS model and one of the YCC models. I HAVE TRIED getting the MC Cruise to work on this bike. It doesn't. My throttle return spring is too weak to pull against the light drag from the additional cabling - I'm guessing the PO cut off some of the spring wire.

If you buy this, I'll have that much more motivation to finish putting the body back on my 2016 (and the Denali Soundblaster, and the T-Rex bag protectors, and the Canyon Cages, and ...)

[added BigFoot to farkles]

Just saw the date on this thread. I'll leave this posted here and will repost this 2005 when my 2016 is ready...