Cable Lube

[JimLor]

At the risk of asking a dumb question, when maintenance calls to lube the control cables, I assume that's the brake, throttle, and clutch cables. How do you do that - do you dissconnect the cables and pull them from the sheathing, or do you try and let some lube run into the sheathing and hope for the best? After reading a couple of threads on problems with the suggested fix being lube the cables, I want to make sure I'm doing it right. Thanks.

 

[teerex51]

Jim,

Brakes and clutch are hydraulic. Ain't no cables there.

Section 3-72 of the Workshop Manual is pretty vague on the cable-lube subject.

That leaves just the throttle...or am I missing something?

Stef

PS: If I am, someone will set me straight

 

[Geezer]

I only see the throttle cables on the FJR. I opened up the assembly on the handle bar (2 screws that were pretty tight) and carefully separated the two halves without kinking any cables. Then I dripped about 6 drops of light oil down each cable so it would flow into the sheath. Then buttoned it back up. I had to wiggle the halves around a bit to position them where they would align and close up tight before putting the 2 screws back in.

 

[JimLor]

Stef - I'm in the office and not by my bike, but I'm pretty sure there's cable running from both the front brake and clutch lever...somewhere!

 

[markjenn]

There's wiring from our clutch and brake housings, but not control cables. The only cable-operated brakes out there anymore are on kid's bikes like XR100's. Clutches are mixed cable and hydraulic .... ours our hydraulic. (You might want to get a little more familar with your bike Jim.)

They make devices that clamp over cables and allow you to spray lube down into the cable housing. If I do this, I used Tri-Flow for lubrcant. But you have to disconnect the cables to do it which is a PITA on the throttle assembly. Most cable housings these days are teflon-lined so for a throttle cable, I'd probably just not worry about it unless there is a problem.

- Mark

 

[jestal]

del

 

[JimLor]

Mark - thanks for the comments. As to getting to know the bike, that's what I'm trying to do! I've owned it for 4 months and have 4300 miles on it and besides changing oil/filter/rear fluid/insulating the gas tank/sliders/TBS/top box, this is the first fairly involved maintenance and I was looking for some words of wisdom from the vast experience on this site.

 

[C&C]

Do what Geezer said earlier in the thread. Split the throttle control bracket and drop 5-10 drops of 30 weight oil down the cables between the cable proper and the cable casing. I used 30 weight 3 in 1 oil but you can use motor oil or special cable lubricating oil if you want.

 

[radman]

My cable maintenance has always involved using my cable lubing tool to first send a blast of brake clean through to eliminate old spunge and dirt, so that would answer the no-lube cuz of dirt debate. My cable lube is either JusticeBros 80, or lately, Zep45, both more often found in professional shops. They are both a light weight, sprayable lube, but not WD40 crap. A heavier weight oil is,IMHO, a bad idea for the reasons others have posted- cold and dirt make for sticky cables. Ditto chain or other drying lubes for the same reasons. I've probably used them all over the years, and the JB and Zep are the best I've found for the purpose.

Edit-the throttle cables (the only cables on a Feej) have a strange configuration that stymies any attempt to use my cable luber, so I just blast the brake clean through using fingers as a seal, then push as much lube thru as I can same way till I see it exit the cable end at the TB's.

 

[DrEvil777]

Never use WD-40 on the bike, except to loosen a rusted or frozen nut or bolt.

A great product but not for long term lubrication. Once the propellant evaporates, it leaves a nasty thick film that attracts dust and dirt. My dad used to repair clocks and always talked about people who would open the back of their clocks and spray WD-40 on the expensive clock movements and gears and the clock would stop running in about one day. Several hundred dollars later of extensive cleaning to get them running again.

Light oil or cable lube. I have used teflon based cable lube which I also use on the bicycle cables, just a few drops. More is not always better.

 

[JimLor]

Thanks to all for the comments. I'll take advice from all and split the box, spray cleaner then light oil down the cable. Although it initially and immediately pissed me off - I heeded Mark's comment (advice) and looked up the parts info on the cable and front brake lever assemblies (ys?) and paged through the maint manual on the same subject and eyeballed my bike and now know much more than I did when I asked the question - thanks for the impetus! Appreciate the advice and comments from all - thanks.

 

[professor]

How about one more opinion. For years I've used a product called DRI-SLIDE. I bought it for the clutch cable on a Harley and have used the same bottle on every bike since. I gave the throttle cables a good squirt and worked the cables to distribute the stuff, then left the assembly open overnight so that the veicle would evaporate out, put things back together the next morning and have had a smooth throttle ever since. Oh yeah, I disconnected the main throttle spring ( I may have been the first to do this) when I first got the bike to cure right hand numbness. My throttle is so smooth, I'd have to say- its as smooth as a babys ***!

 

[Constant Mesh]

Should the turn signal switch be lubed? Each time I operate this switch I become more convinced that this is one of the cheapest, lowest quality components on the FJR.

 

[yanktar]

Be sure to lube the "Any" key, as in "Press Any Key". I'd lube the front and rear brake and clutch cables every day if I were you. Especially the rear clutch cable. :haha:

 

[Ramblin Man]

I become more convinced that this is one of the cheapest, lowest quality components on the FJR.

Thats because it has hardly changed for over thirty years. You can take the one off an XS and it will mount right up.

Of course it is one of the most used switches on the bike. Completely mechanical. Lets hope it at least keeps costs down.