Cam Chain Tensioner...anything else while I am in there?

[MikeK]

I have a replacement tensioner on my 2006 (with 61K miles) en route for replacement over the weekend. Are there any other parts that could be replaced while I have the cover off? Any of the guides, or the chain itself?
All responses are appreciated!
Thanks

 

[RossKean]

Nothing likely needed, but you should have a spare timing cover gasket on hand. (Cover should come off if you are doing the CCT.)
Have valve clearances been checked? If they are past due, you should do that - along with sparkplugs and coolant.
Read up on valve checks. You WILL need the two coolant pipe o-rings if you do it. Valve shims - who knows?

 

[harper]

For the chain tensioner, cut a slot in the head of the screw that is accessed through the (usually plugged) slot in the frame. Use a dremel tool or even a hacksaw. That makes starting the screw much easier because you can use a long screwdriver to insert it.

 

[RossKean]

https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/lessons-learned-on-changing-the-cct.136891/

 

[MikeK]

Thanks for the feedback. I'm not sure about the valve clearance since I just bought the bike and the previous owner wasn't very mechanically savvy and only had the bike for a short period of time. I can faintly hear the chain so the tensioner is the first thing. I also feel the rear shock needs a replacement, then maybe next year I will pull the front shocks and respring and replace the seals. The bike runs clean with little to no residue in the pipes.

 

[RossKean]

If the valve check hasn't been done (or if you aren't sure), you should do it. By 61,000 miles, you are quite possibly going to need to adjust some of the clearances although they probably wouldn't be badly out of spec.
As I mentioned, valve check is the ideal time to do sparkplugs and coolant.

 

[RiderJoe]

Maybe a throttle body sync (TBS) check and adjustment can be done too if you have access to a manometer. (After everything else is done, of course.)

 

[RossKean]

Maybe a throttle body sync (TBS) check and adjustment can be done too if you have access to a manometer. (After everything else is done, of course.)

For a Gen II, I would do a TBS after any major work - valve check, in particular or anything like a throttle body cleaning. Generally speaking, Gen II remains more stable than Gen I with respect to TBS.

 

[MikeK]

Thanks for all the feedback!

 

[audiowize]

Be careful that you start by pulling the lower timing cover and using a zip tie to keep the timing chain from moving around down there. The timing cover gasket had a slight redesign after your bike was made, so a new one will work better than what you have for a few bucks.

If you haven't put in the air injection bypass plates, that could also be done at the same time.

 

[RocketDude808]

For the chain tensioner, cut a slot in the head of the screw that is accessed through the (usually plugged) slot in the frame. Use a dremel tool or even a hacksaw. That makes starting the screw much easier because you can use a long screwdriver to insert it.

I used a long wobble extension from harbor freight.

 

[MikeK]

I used a narrow extension through the knock-out in the frame. The back side of the knock-out is larger so if you hold the socket on the back side of the frame, you can attach it to the extension and pull the extension back a little into the hole in the frame, then line it up for the bolts. Worked perfectly. Just try not to drop anything into the frame.
The zip tie trick worked well. Thanks everyone for your input