Can an FJR1300 make it up the Dalton Highway?

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Keep it coming...can't wait until the next installment!

I'm not convinced that I would take an FJR - much less mine, on the Dalton. Between the mud and rocks, I'm afraid the bike and I would be taking more *naps* than I could afford. :lol:

--G

 
A story about how dangerous the Dalton Highway is:

FAIRBANKS — A motorcyclist from Scotland died in an accident Sunday on the Dalton Highway, according to Alaska State Troopers.

 

Robert Munn, 60, of Kinross, Scotland, was riding the highway as part of a motorcycle tour group. The accident was reported at 12:21 p.m. and occurred as the group was heading north near 58 Mile.

 

A man on a motorcycle behind Munn told troopers he was preparing to pass him when he saw Munn pull farther to the right and fishtail. Munn was thrown from his bike and was pronounced dead shortly after the accident. An ambulance was dispatched from a nearby trans-Alaska oil pipeline pump station.

 

Munn’s wife was on the back of the bike and received minor injuries. The tour group took her back to Anchorage.

 

The man behind them also had to lay down his bike to avoid Munn and received minor injuries.

 

Munn was riding a 2005 BMW at the time of the crash. He and everyone else involved were wearing protective clothing and helmets. Alcohol was not a factor.

 

The road was muddy and wet at the time of the crash. Troopers are still investigating the crash.

 

The accident took place about 40 miles from the site of another serious motorcycle accident in June that injured former Alabama Gov. Bob Riley. Conditions also were wet on the day of that accident.

 

Read more: Fairbanks Daily News-Miner - Tourist dies in motorcycle accident on Alaska s Dalton Highway

 
Day 13

 

Woke up in Deadhorse around 5am, called my wife on Skype. They had a really good internet connection which was nice for a change. I wanted to upload my pictures and video to the blog. I talked to my wife for about an hour on Skype, she seemed well and was happy that her son Tyler had finished High School. She went to the graduation ceremony the night before.

 

I went downstairs to breakfast, it was the hub of activity for the morning. Everyone was dressed in their various company logo uniforms, i.e. Halliburton. I ate a light breakfast and grabbed a few sandwiches and fruit for the road. After a shower, i loaded up the bike and settled the bill. I asked the lady at the check out desk where the sign was that all the bikers goto take their picture in front of. She directed me to the Napa store near the start of the dalton highway......."go to the start of the dalton but go past and turn right"......sounds easy enough?

 

I loaded up the bike outside and immediately noticed that it was cold, the weather channel said 37 degrees. I bundled up and set off to find the sign....which of course I couldn't find after driving around. This was around 0745 hours. I remembered that it took me 14 hours the day before and I want to get a move on incase it was raining on the other side of Adtkin Pass.

 






I headed south and for the first 60 miles it was as I remembered it, bumpy with frost heaves. I just weaved my way through them and kept moving. father down I came to a construction zone where I got stuck behind a truck watering the roadway......for about 6 miles. This is good for cars/trucks but for bikes, it really gets slippery.

 

What I didn't realize that I was coming up to "oh **** corner". I was moving along pretty good and took the turn, which was a downhill decreasing radius right turn. I came in pretty hot and almost lost it as I wrenched the bike over to make the turn while grabbing a handful of brake. The front brake on the FJR controls both the back and front brake at the same time. After the turn I saw the "oh **** turn" sign to the left as I drove by it......they should put two up one for each way...north and south....but the state can only get one "oh **** turn" sign past the powers that be each year before eyebrows are raised.

 

They eventually turned around and came back the other way and the road graders came buy and pushed dirt all around making obstacles for me to avoid. I got by them and made my way over the pass. There was no fog today and I could see the full mountain range. I took video and pictures of it.

 


















After the pass I ran into some rain and it got slippery on a stretch of road I like to call "mud hills". They were of course muddy and I was slipping all over the place.

 

I got past that section and the road really opened up into long stretches of hard packed dirt. I was hauling the mail and moving along at a really good pace, 80mph.

 



 



I had to keep the throttle in check because the next fuel stop was 240 miles from Deadhorse in Coldfoot.

 

As I crossed onto a paved section about 20 miles from the Coldfoot visitor center, i spotted several people on the side of the roadway. One lady was taking pictures and there was a crew of people shooting video on the other section. I drove past and then a short way down I turned around and went back. If they were making a video or taking pictures, I wanted to know where it was going to be so I could grab a couple of pictures from the website.

 

I talked to them and learned that she was from the Bureau of Land Management making a video for the Coldfoot Visitor Center.....and then she asked if I want to be interviewed.....sure why not, I said......

 

They had a crew of people to include a director, cameraman, sound guy and a guy that asked if I could sign a waver for the interview.....sign away I said....



I chatted with them while they got set up. They asked if I could move my bike and they put it in the shot they were taking. The sound guy mic'd me up and we did a sound check. The director talked to me about the questions he was going to be asking me.

 



It was kind of funny, I know I sounded like a tool bag answering their questions. I thought about all the things I should have said after. But hey, can't change the past. When we finished, I did a couple of runs up and down the road so they could get some video.

 






After that we said our good by's and I headed south for gas. My reserve light was blinking and I needed to get to Coldfoot to refuel and keep moving back to the campsite in Fairbanks.

 

I hit Coldfoot and filled up, grabbed a coffee and ate my peanut better and jelly sandwich from Prudhoe Bay. I talked with several people, one couple was having problems with their Volkswagen Van, they called back to their mechanic in California but they needed an OB2 scanner to see what the check engine light was blinking about. They had just come from Jiffy Lube where they got an oil change....who knows what they did.

 

Their plan was to park the van there and hitch a ride to Prudhoe Bay and then hitch a ride back to their van. Then find someone to tow it back to Fairbanks, 267 miles south. The only Volkswagen dealer in Alaska was in Anchorage.

 

Back on the road, I made good time. I pulled into a gas station about 60 miles north on Livengood. Just got a few gallons and then headed south again. Just inside of Fairbanks, I stopped at a truck stop when I saw the gas price was $4.03 a gallon, so I filled up. It was only 20 miles to the RV camp site where Taylor was.

 

I pulled in around 1730 hours and was glad to be back.

 

 
Thank you for the most interesting report! :clapping: For those of us that think we might attempt a ride to Deadhorse, how many miles of gravel are actually involved on the Dalton Highway?

 
Thank you for the most interesting report! :clapping: For those of us that think we might attempt a ride to Deadhorse, how many miles of gravel are actually involved on the Dalton Highway?

I'd say its about 50% paved and 50% mixed, gravel, hard dirt sections.....until it rains...then its 50% MUD!!!

 
Great pics of the Dalton and thanks for continuing the RReport.

What did the little engine say... I think I can, I think I can, I think I can... :lol: One of these days... :)

--G

 
The front brake on the FJR controls both the back and front brake at the same time.
AFAIK this is incorrect. The Gen II's brakes are linked only back to front. Using the front brake lever will not activate the rear brake caliper.

https://www.fjrforum....showtopic=18020

All that aside, I love your ride reports! Fantastic trip, and thanks for sharing it.

 
June 23, 2011 Day 14.

 

I woke up and said my good byes to Taylor and Mr Goldwing. They pushed off early and I hung around until about 0930 hours. The sky was pretty clear where I was, so I opted to not put on heavy warm clothes and rain gear. A choice I was going to regret later. Mr Goldwing said that there was a nice coffee shop in the IGA grocery store at Delta Junction with Wi-Fi. That was going to be my first stop since the wi-fi at the RV park wasn't working that well.

 

I headed off and as I made my way south, the rain and cold started in. I didn't have the heated vest on or my long underwear. The water was soaking through my open vents in the jacket and I was getting cold.

 

I pulled into the IGA which was about 100 miles down from Fairbanks. It was a torrential downpour. I quickly grabbed the laptop and went inside. I got a few hot chicken/cheese wrap thing's and a cup of coffee. The IGA is around an air force base, so there were airman/women in the coffee shop eating lunch. And there was no wi-fi.

 

No matter, I typed away for awhile to get my thoughts on paper.

 

I was going to add some clothing layers, but I couldn't find a bathroom or a spot to change and my long underwear was buried deep in a bag strapped on my bike. The thought of standing in the rain trying to locate everything I need then re-strapping the bags back on the bike wasn't too appealing.

 

I got on the bike and headed to Tok for gas. I pulled into the same Chevron Station that I filled up at when I got to Alaska. There were several other ADV'ers there along with a guy who road his Yamaha XT660 from Argentina. I can't rememeber his screen name now, but he has a ride report on ADV, where one of his fellow riders was kidnapped in Mexico for a few hours. He said Mexico was worse than what is shown on the TV/News.

 

We chatted for a bit about bikes and general ADV topics. Then I talked to some kids on XR650L's from California. They had made their own panniers from mylar type material and were heading up north to Dawson City for Dust2Dawson.

 

I got my warm clothing and rain gear, found the bathroom and bundled up. the rain had stopped for now, but I wanted to have it on just incase. I then made my way towards the border and stopped at the last gas station before I crossed into canada. The Canadian Customs statin is about 20 miles in from the border.

 

I had my paperwork ready and pulled up. I asked the guy if he wanted me to take off my helmet. He said..."well I need you passport first, and why would I need your helmet off? Your passport has a photograph of you".........really?

 

Every other border station had me take off my helmet, and now this guy uses common sense and realizes that there's a picture in the passport. Can we all get on the same page people?

 

I handed over my paperwork and he made some comments about I had too many copies and they were not stamped correctly. Blah blah blah.......I showed him where the copies were and where the stamps were, along with another paper issued in Quebec on their letterhead saying everything was fine.

 

So just a few quick questions and no inspection of the shotgun. I was on my way.

 

I made my way down about 60 miles to a campsite and grabbed a spot near the entrance. There were several other campers there with RV's and one couple with a subaru with bicycles on top. I talked with them about where the water pump was, and they said this campground didn't have one. They were getting water from a river that was passing behind them and boiling it for drinking. I had enough water to get me through the night.

 




 




 



 




 



Around 10pm two ADV'ers rolled in and set up camp down the way a bit, they were on BMW's F650 and F800GS. I walked down around 1030pm and had a talk with them. Two girls, both teachers from California. They were burning a romance novel that they picked up from a free book bin at some store. They had been a couple for a few years and they travel on their bikes a lot it seemed like. For fun they read romance novels to each other to pass the time when they camp. This one was so bad that they decided to burn it.

 

We talked for about 45 minutes about bikes, work, and where they were heading. It was interesting watching the dynamic between them. The younger one was doing all the "house work" to include putting tooth paste on both tooth brushes and handing it to the older lady. They carry fresh milk with them and strap a cooler to the back of their bike with a block of ice. The older lady "gets cranky" if she doesn't eat protein and milk is the cheapest source she said.........I know.....I know what you are thinking....stop it already!

 

I said my good bye's and went off to bed.

 




 




 




 
June 24, 2011 Day 15

 

I woke in the morning and got dressed quickly, no breakfast and hit the road. It was a pretty un-eventful day really for the morning. Just put in some miles and got gas. The roads in the Yukon are pretty bad usually, with road construction every few miles or so it seemed like. They have frost heaves and pot holes throughout.

 

In the afternoon I stopped for gas and talked with a guy on a bicycle. There seemed to be a lot of bicycle people out on tours of alaska. They seem to be gone for months at a time. This guy I talked too was from Texas, he retired on August 1st and was on the road on August 6th with his bicycle. He told his wife that he would be gone from 3 months in infinity.......

 



 



We chatted for a bit and I learned that he grew up in New Britain Connecticut and used to pick tobacco in Cromwell Connecticut, which is where I grew up. He has 4 kids that graduated college and his wife moved to Massachusetts for 6 months because it was too hot in Texas. He wanted to talk a lot, I think that being on a bike for so long it gets boring for the people. He rides about 60 kilometers per day, about 30 miles. He's 65 years old. We talked about food and that he can't eat enough for the amount or peddling that he does. I felt bad for the guy and gave him some of my snack food.

 

I passed some wildlife and took some pictures. The Cassier Highway is a great road with many twisty bits.

 



 






 



 



 



 






 

I continued on crossing in British Columbia until I found a camp ground.

 

 



 



 



 



 



 



I pulled in and saw two other ADV'ers on bikes there. They were both riding 2 Up, with their ladies. Talking with the guy next to my campsite, he was from Alaska and going to Colorado. I got the impression that he wasn't in the talking mood, which is fine, some people don't like to be bothered. The other bike had a United Kingdom license plate on it so I figured I go see what their deal was.

 

I walked over and met Ivanka and Nick. They were from the UK and were traveling from Alaska to the end of Argentina for 9 to 12 months. No real schedule or route or time frame, just heading south. We ended up hitting it off and I spent about 2 hours with them talking about the trip and general bike stuff. They have a web site www.bootsboatsandbikes.co.uk which is tracking their progress and writing blog entires.

 



I also blew a fork seal on my right fork, it was leaking and geting all over the bike. I am not too worried about it, I can fix it when I get home.

 

Ended the day with him saying that he would come over in the morning and we all would go for a swim in the lake next to the camp site. I thought he was joking and went off to bed.

 

 
June 25, 2011 Day 16

 

I woke up around 0715 hours and started packing up everything. At 0730 he came running over in his shorts and said "ready for a swim?" They were both up and already dressed in their swim clothes! I thought they were kidding!!

 

"ok", I said, and quickly grabbed my swim trunks, changed and headed over. We all took a quick swim in the lake, it was cold but not bad. It took your breath away for a few seconds.

 

After the swim, they said they would be ready in about 45 minutes to head south down the Cassier Highway. They planned on only doing about 150 kilometers to the next camp site. I wanted to push on for 600 miles today, so we kind of agreed that I would keep going and give them a honk of the horn/wave when they pulled into the campground.

 



 



 



 












We started off and surprisingly they kept going and decided not to camp at the next site. We road together and stopped a few times for rest breaks and gas. The said this was the farthest they have gone since they started. We ended up stopping at some road construction and I saw the guy with the pennsylvania plate that I spotted in the beginning of my trip was back in Ontario.

 

We pressed on and eventually stopped at a gas station/restaurant for coffee and soup. On the ride there, we ran into a brown bear that was in the roadway and didnt want to get out of the road, we all stopped well away from it until it decided to move. We also saw several Fox and one moose.

 

We went for about 300 miles today. The Cassier Highway had some of the most spectacular scenery on the whole trip. The beginning of the road was pretty well burned away from 2 fires, one front last year and one from this year.

 

We ended up stopping at a camp site for the night in a provincial park. The usual $16 per night, which we split to save some money. Plus we bought some firewood. They picked up some steaks, potato's and asparagus which why prepared over the fire we built. They cooked classic english chips, which are just fired potato's. I had a few pieces of chips and asparagus which they offered. It was nice to have some fresh vegetables. They had the cooking pans and olive oil to cook the steaks over the fire.

 



 



 



 



After dinner we drank coffee and played a card game called "13 Card Brag", which is like poker but you have to make 4 hands of 3 cards to 4 cards each, with the best hand played first. It was really fun since I won the first game to 11 points:) Then I lost the second game:(

 









After cleaning up it was around 11pm and I decided to charge my computer on the bike. The cigarette lighter could not handle the draw on the battery and blew the 3 amp fuse. I replaced it with a spare from the bike. We all headed off to bed around midnight, it was still partially light out. As I get father down to the US, its getting darker at night.

 

We hug some wet clothes out to dry.....I look good in pink.

 









 

 
We ended up stopping at a camp site for the night in a provincial park. The usual $16 per night, which we split to save some money. Plus we bought some firewood. They picked up some steaks, potato's and asparagus which why prepared over the fire we built. They cooked classic english chips, which are just fired potato's. I had a few pieces of chips and asparagus which they offered. It was nice to have some fresh vegetables. They had the cooking pans and olive oil to cook the steaks over the fire.

What else went into that meal? It looks like a small bunny or perhaps a squirrel in someone's left hand?

 
We ended up stopping at a camp site for the night in a provincial park. The usual $16 per night, which we split to save some money. Plus we bought some firewood. They picked up some steaks, potato's and asparagus which why prepared over the fire we built. They cooked classic english chips, which are just fired potato's. I had a few pieces of chips and asparagus which they offered. It was nice to have some fresh vegetables. They had the cooking pans and olive oil to cook the steaks over the fire.

What else went into that meal? It looks like a small bunny or perhaps a squirrel in someone's left hand?


Its actually the handle for the pans, just a bit out of focus. It's a pretty neet accessory to the pan set....

 
June 26, 2011 Day 17

 

 

 

 

I don’t know if I pulled a “******” on Nick and Ivanka. I woke up early, around 0530 and I know they sleep in until 0730 every morning. I felt like it would be a long good bye for some reason and I would have not got on the road until after 0900 or so. I am not in a rush to get home or anything.

 

 

 

 

They were heading back up the road to Route 37A to Hyder for a day or so, its about 50 kilometers away. So I just wrote them a note saying that I had a real great time with them the last few days and I hope they have a great journey together on the motorbike. I also left them a challenge coin from my work.

 

 

 

 

It was around 0630 when I had everything packed on the bike, got my jacket on, quickly started the bike and then headed off. I was sad to leave them, and in a way I was jealous that they were going to have such a wonderful time together and that I was heading towards the end of my journey. They both genuinely seemed to love each other and also seemed to get along famously.

 

 

 

 

I will definitely be following them along on their blog.

 

 

 

 

I had to remove our laundry from the bike's....

 

 

 

 



 

 

 

 

I headed down the road about 100 miles and stopped for gas/coffee at a Petro Canada station. Gas was $1.29 a litre, which is good. It seems to be getting better in price.

 

 

 

 

I pressed on another 175 miles and stopped in a little town for fuel. There was a library just across the street and I went over hoping that it would have wi-fi so I could update my blog. But they turn it off when the library is closed. But they did have power outlets outside, so I plugged the computer in and charged it while i ate my lunch, which was MRE chicken on tortia shells. After about an hour, I drove off again.

 

 

 

 



 

 

 

 



 

 

 

 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The blown fork seal was still leaking.

 

 

 

 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I passed a lot of bikers going west on Route 16, while I was going east. I got to prince George and almost got side swiped buy a F150 merging into my lane. I gave him the international signal for “piss off” and yelled a little calling him stupid.

 

 

 

 

I found a McDonald’s which had wi-fi and posted some updates. It was a nice little one, inside a strip mall, not many seats, but the new style of cafe seating. They had a big screen TV where the Formula 1 race was on in spain. I watched for a few minutes before heading out.

 

 

 

 

I drove about 50 kilometers to this campground. I did spot the other two up bikers from a few days back who were heading to colorado. I got changed and talked with the park attendant. A young girl, maybe low 20’s. She quit school in the 10th grade and has been traveling the world ever since. This is just her summer job to get more money to travel again. The park attendant gig seems nice, $25 per day plus you have a place to stay, collect money, pass out wood, empty some garbage. She was a tough girl, but pretty.

 

 

 

 

I got changed and headed down to the lake where I took a swim. I also brought my dirty clothes and washed them in the lake. The mosquitos were pretty bad down by the water. I shot some video and pictures of the area and then headed back to my site.

 

 

 

 



 

 

 

 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I walked around a bit and took some pictures.

 

 

 

 



 

 

 

 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I got a fire going eventually and had some tea. As I sat with my computer on the picnic table, it started to rain, so I grabbed everything quickly and headed for the tent. Hopefully this is just passing shower.........

 

 
I completely understand. I have no idea how I would get the 20 or so days it would take to do a ride like this. How many miles a day did you average?

 

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