Can I put in back of THIS pickup?

[CaptianBanana]

The manual for the truck would probably tell you what the load rating for the tailgate is. It might be fine sitting there, but it sure would suck if you hit a speed bump and the bounce was just enough to cause the tailgate to fail.

Depending on how often you need to haul the bike, you might think about renting. I rented a trailer from U-haul for $15 a day. It wasn't pretty, but it worked great, was easy to use, and they have roadside assistance if a tire blows or anything else goes wrong.

 

[GTB I]

Put it on the center stand (front tire forward) as that is practically the center of gravity and the effective load is then in the center of the bed. Strap it down tight against the cab/tank (you don't want it to shift and you are more concerned with sudden stops). Again, strap it down hard (take some spring action out of it) to prevernt swaying, and you can take it to Hades if need be. As stated earlier, if you can get it into the truck, your battle is over if you do the above. I've hauled a bunch of bikes this way. Good luck. - GTB I

 

[SilverHound]

I have loaded and hauled many bikes in the back of pickups over the years. (Being a Minnesotan sucks, and when you need to ride you do what you have to do.)
If you have the front wheel chocked so it can't turn, and the tie downs are secure and forward of your hook points in the front and rear, you should be fine. Tie the back end also using forward pull. The most important thing is that the back end won't swing side to side, and the front is secure. The endgate should support the rear wheel with no trouble. Make sure the cables and hooks supporting the end gate are in good condition.

Just my $.02

I wouldn't be too sure of that. Those cables look about the same as those on my wife's Avalanche and with two grown men just standing on the tailgate both of them snapped. That was AFTER a recall to replace the cables with stronger ones. I would imagine that going over some bumps could place a lot of force on that tailgate with the bike on it. I just wouldn't chance it but that's just me.

 

[JamesW]

I bought an AWESOME used pickup truck (Dodge Ram 2500 diesel). However the original owner has an auxiliary fuel tank that takes up almost two feet of the bed. I did a "test load" and found a ramp that matches up to the pickup bed's height.
If I load the bike straight down the middle, the tiedown spots on the bed would be forward and down from the front wheel (and around the box), and forward and down of the back seat/passenger footpegs. Here's a picture of where the back wheel will make contact with the tailgate (RIGHT at the edge...the wood block was used as a step-up to load it in). The reason the bike is tilted is because I put the sidestand down to keep it up while I took pictures.

If I load the bike with the front wheel in the corner of the fuel tank and the bed, it puts the bike in a more diagonal position, which brings the wheel away from the edge of the tailgate, but still on the tailgate. It looks more secure, but I don't know how I could securely tie it down like that. Also, it's a little tougher to find a good spot to load/unload like that.

In either case, I'd build a REALLY simple device to keep the wheels in line and from moving. Just a piece of plywood in the bed with 2 x 4's screwed into it about 4 or 5 inches apart. So the wheel can't turn past them.

OR, I can try to snag a harbour freight trailer on sale (cost around $230) and use that with the truck. I'd rather go the cheaper route of tying the bike in the bed of the truck, but I want to make sure it's secure. I don't know how much that tailgate can hold (weight-wise, strapped down), and if it's safe to have the back wheel so close to the edge, even if it's got constant tension forward.

Looking for some more educated opinions. Thanks.

Alexi

I went with a harbor freight trailer several years ago to haul the Shadow Sabre behind the camper, great little economy trailer if you assemble it well. I put plywood front and sides on it along with a tailgate, such a handy little rig I still have it out back long after the Shadow left. Get the one with the bigger wheels. Now I have a 6X12 enclosed with a dropped axle to haul my 1800 wing. Ramped rear door just drop it and drive in to the wheel chock and step off. Extra room for bike gear, gas container, just like a portable garage and I can handle all the chores by myself without involving the wife. Wing and trailer are for two up with wife when traveling/camping, do not plan on putting the FJR in it, that baby is my single up gofer.

 

[DeweyIsgod]

I'd scour craigslist for a good used 5x8 utility trailer. I found mine for a great price and it comes in handy for a lot more than they few times I've had to trailer the bikes.

+1 on that

I have a 5x8 utility trailer that I love. I bought it new for $900, but you can routinely find them on craigslist for ~$500. I moved houses using only that trailer. I haven't had to tow the FJR, but I could install a wheel chock in 10 minutes and there are numerous tie-down points. When I was looking at trailers, I stayed away from anything with tiny wheels (like the harbor freight). Most of the tiny tires aren't rated to go above 45mph.

 

[1911]

Trailer. Don't put the bike in the truck! You'll scratch the tailgate.

You don't say what year that nice new (to you) Dodge is.

If it is powered buy a Cummins ISB, keep the fuel lift pump fresh. $90 OEM lift pumps fail at an alarming rate and take out $1600 injection pumps (VP44) with them when they go.

Find a deisel/Cummins forum half as good as this m/c forum and check into it.

This $.02 worth offered at a significant loss.

 

[Aasland]

40 hours of driving a Dodge 2500 diesel? 12 - 18 mpg ? would it be cheaper for her to fly?

 

[Geezer]

I have carried a few bikes in the back of my truck. I mormally use the side stand, push the front tire into the front right corner, compress the forks a bit while tying the front down. I also tie or wire the side stand itself to make sure it can't fold back up. and tie the back of the bike so it can't move sideways.

Regarding your tailgate, make sure the cables that hold the tailgate are in good shape. They look a lot like the ones on my Chevy and mine need to be replaced every couple of years or they break.

A trailer would be easier to load and unload, but it's something extra to worry about when you're driving and parking.

 

[Intech]

Hauling it in the truck with the tailgate down is no problem. As previously stated, the only "problem" is the difficulty getting it in and out. If you don't have a loading dock or good SECURE ramps a trailer is preferable. I have transproted many baikes in the back of a truck. Here are the things I learned:

1. Use hadlebar soft straps. This eliminates the need for chocking or securing the front wheel

2. Place a board between the front tire and the forward surface to give a little extra distance to protect the front edge of the fender from hitting.

3. Compress the front shocks being sure that the bike is still vertical.

4. Use an additional tie down to secure the back end. This isn't absolutely necessary if the first three steps are done properly, but it is cheap insurance to keep the back end from dancing.

In the absense of ramps you can back the truck up to an appropriatly high and sloped bank and on or offload. This was the method I used after picking my FJR when I bought it.

 

[crazymech]

I bought my FJR from around Chicago and hauled it on the back of my Ford F250 diesel crewcab all the way to Atlanta a few months ago.

Things you should buy:

1) Lots of straps - Since you may not find adequate strapping places, remove the seats and you can strap to the frame.

2) front wheel chock from Harbor Freight - 39.99. Strap the front wheel and chock combo after the wheel is in the chock to the truck floor. This will keep the bike and the plywood from moving at all.

3) thick plywood sheet for the chock to mount on and for the rear wheel to sit securely on. Size it so that the plywood covers all through the end of the tailgate.

4) While at harbor freight, pick up some rubber mats to put under the plywood so that you dont scratch the bed (and the shiny mirror finish plate on the tailgate)

5) shorter bolts to mount the chock - the bolts that come with the chock are way too long

6) Since the bike extends far onto the tailgate, see if you can put a ratcheting cargo bar through the rear wheel or from under the bike to hold the two sides of the bed apart. As you tighten the straps, the bed sides will get pulled inwards and might bend - especially if you tie the straps onto the top of the bed and not to the floor of the bed.

7) Tighten up everything... stop and check every 100 miles and you should be ok.

8) For loading and unloading, buy a pair of planks - 10.00? and a ramp kit - 39.00 - that has the ends for ramps from HD or Lowes. While there, get a can of non-slip paint - $10 for peace of mind. Coat the planks with the paint.

9) To prevent the planks from slipping out from under you, drill two holes for each ramp on the plywood sheet in the bed to insert the four pins that come with the ramp kit.

let us know how and what you do.

 

[ZOOOMM]

This is what we do when we head out West https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=107323 ........thanks to Brad for capturing this pic.

One precaution with any set-up, after your crank down your straps (get heavy duty straps, not cheapos) take a moment to use plastic wire ties around the hooks on the straps and the "D" rings in the bed. We found that even though you cinch down the straps and compress your shocks, all that bouncing around sometimes allows the strap hooks to jump out of the "D" rings (hence no more tied down bike). We never use the center stand nor the side stand. Another note, you may want to consider using an old leather shami (sp) cloth and cut it up into 2" wide strips to put between your straps and the metal parts of your bike to keep the straps from being cut (I know it's hard to believe but it happens). We learn these things during our first towing trip across the USA to Nevada. I hope this helps alittle.

 

[oldryder]

I haul bikes in a trck bed all the time, partly for old bikes I restore and partly rce bikes. with a good ramp loading is a snap if you have a couple people, unloading is a little harder and I usually like to have 3 people but I've seen it done many times by one person. it's possible with one person just no room for error.

I also have a bike trailer but if I was going on a long trip and was going to drive a pick-up anyway I'd get a ramp and put it in the back opf the truck diagonally. you already got good advice on tie downs.

a canyon dancer handlebar strap is worth the money. ust make sure the handlebar bolts are tight.

 

[LgFJR]

I haul my 400lb KLR around in my truck, and its great. Having said that I would listen intently to all the precautionary tales, and remove all chances of slip, fall, things moving on their own etc. As one who FORMERLY took a casual attitude towards loading in truck beds......let me tell you that one KLR unloading on a steeper than usual angled ramp, that started sliding backwards, that with practically no effort I managed to shield my bike from damage with my well padded disposable body.......will give you a permanent attitude adjustment. I was lucky my good buddy was standing there horrified watching this fiasco, and lifted the KLR off of me and the ramp. One destroyed watch band, numerous cuts and scrapes, ribs and bones that ached for months almost made up for the pristine condition of my bike.......LOL.......dang that was a painful lesson. I can't even imagine how many orders of magnitude worse my FJR could be........just walking innocently through some wet grass right before loading onto that mirrored tailgate could introduce a whole new world of entertaining acrobatics !........... :dribble:

LG

 

[Mcgyver74]

Hate to suggest this, but have you considered removing the aux tank from the truck? That would give you almost 2 feet of extra space to load the bike.

I've only trailered a bike on the back of a Pickup once, when my old Connie puked the motor 300 miles from home, the rear wheel was sitting on the tailgate of an F150 and it was fine but it wasn't that close to the edge, I'd be hesitant with the bike that far out on the tailgate...

 

[FJRGuy]

Tailgates are not designed to carry that kind of dynamic load. If you could pick up a motorcycle 'tray', bolt it to plywood or cross members, that would cantilever the support over the tailgate and put the support in the bed. Just my $0.02

 

[majicmaker]

Tailgates are not designed to carry that kind of dynamic load. If you could pick up a motorcycle 'tray', bolt it to plywood or cross members, that would cantilever the support over the tailgate and put the support in the bed. Just my $0.02

Damn Good Idea!! I Absolutely Agree! Gotta get that load off the tailgate. :good:

Otherwise, Get that Fuel Tank Outta There!!

 

[timk]

If you're goin the pickup truck route get a good ramp system. I use a 9'Black Widow arched. Very safe loading/unloading. 3 quality straps are fine. 1 on each fork leg, 1 on rear tire down to trailer hitch. The idea is to cinch the front tight,then pull the back to the rear. More straps if using cheapos. I would lose the bed box, and put the bike up farther, if possible.

 

[LancasterFJR]

I bought this from Lowe's for $580. Added a diamond plate and some heavy duty D-rings on the sides and a brace underneath. The total cost was $800. I believe the max load for this is 1800 pounds. I use trailer/pit stop Condor chock ($220 from comp.acc.com) and four tie downs to secure the bike. Loading and unloading the bikes with the left gate/ramp are very easy. I have hauled the FJR many times for hundreds of miles with no issues at all. I have also hauled two sport bikes with no issues. It also doubles up as a utility trailer for all kinds of things. Your truck looks nice. Keep it that way. Sam

https://s724.photobucket.com/albums/ww242/g...pg&newest=1

 

[majicmaker]

I bought this from Lowe's for $580. Added a diamond plate and some heavy duty D-rings on the sides and a brace underneath. The total cost was $800. I believe the max load for this is 1800 pounds. I use trailer/pit stop Condor chock ($220 from comp.acc.com) and four tie downs to secure the bike. Loading and unloading the bikes with the left gate/ramp are very easy. I have hauled the FJR many times for hundreds of miles with no issues at all. I have also hauled two sport bikes with no issues. It also doubles up as a utility trailer for all kinds of things. Your truck looks nice. Keep it that way. Sam
https://s724.photobucket.com/albums/ww242/g...pg&newest=1

I got the same trailer and it works like a champ! :yahoo:

My riding lawn mower will testify to that too! :clapping:

 

[Mcgyver74]

Probably a cheaper route would be a Trailer in a bag

https://trailerinabag.com/index.html

Plus it breaks down into pieces so it can easily be stowed in the bed when not in use