can't crack oil drain plug

[mrfah]

Besides taking it to the dealer to break it loose, does anybody have any suggestions for breaking the nut loose? I don't think I have an extension/pipe for lengthening the socket wrench for leverage either.

The sucker is really on there...

 

[John_Dumke]

Besides taking it to the dealer to break it loose, does anybody have any suggestions for breaking the nut loose? I don't think I have an extension/pipe for lengthening the socket wrench for leverage either.
The sucker is really on there...

Mine was pretty tight as well. But leverage is a wonderful thing. Don't you have a 1/2" drive breaker bar with the appropriate socket? That is what I used when it was new. And yes it was damn tight. But there is no way that it would be too tight for that equipement. Otherwise it would be stripped.

All I have to say is.... Sears baby Sears. Do I need a mig welder? Hell no, but its nice to know I've got one.

 

[mrfah]

Ok thanks, I'm glad it's not just my bike that came this way.

 

[radman]

What has happened is the threads from the pan coming out with the plug on it's first removal. If it is soooo tight that it won't come out, might not be such a bad idea to have the dealer do the first change so that the problem becomes his and Yamahas should this happen. An alternative is to use the impact method of removal. Rather than a steady pull on the wrench, tap it with a hammer to break it loose. This is less likely to pull the threads out, and it works on a shorter lever (wrench handle) also.

 

[BrunDog]

Repeat after me, "Righty-tighty, Lefty-Loosy".

-BD

 

[Orient_Express]

Repeat after me, "Righty-tighty, Lefty-Loosy".
-BD

Absolutely!!!

That's the one thing I remember about a new motorcycle - you'd thing Goliath put the oil drain plug in with JB Weld.

I agree with the radman - might not be a bad idea to let the dealer do the first oil change because of the reasons he stated.

 

[weekend rider]

I would not waste my time and I would be taking it to a dealer and save myself a whole lot of trouble.

Warning I would not use an air impact on the bolt being so tight. You hit that with an air impact and most likely some of those treads will be comming with the bolt.

A fifty dollar oil change will be cheaper than a five hundred dollar repair for the oil pan

 

[mrfah]

Repeat after me, "Righty-tighty, Lefty-Loosy".
-BD

I understand believe me, but it was really overly tight. I used my wood-working pipe clamp as a breaker bar and did the job but I have not drained the oil yet or inspected the threads...just broke it loose and snugged it back up.

 

[mrfah]

Repeat after me, "Righty-tighty, Lefty-Loosy".-BD

Absolutely!!!That's the one thing I remember about a new motorcycle - you'd thing Goliath put the oil drain plug in with JB Weld.I agree with the radman - might not be a bad idea to let the dealer do the first oil change because of the reasons he stated.

I know that's what I should have done but the determination factor kicked in, I couldn't help myself and broke it loose. I'll drain it in the morning and inspect the bolt and pan.

What has happened is the threads from the pan coming out with the plug on it's first removal. If it is soooo tight that it won't come out, might not be such a bad idea to have the dealer do the first change so that the problem becomes his and Yamahas should this happen. An alternative is to use the impact method of removal. Rather than a steady pull on the wrench, tap it with a hammer to break it loose. This is less likely to pull the threads out, and it works on a shorter lever (wrench handle) also.

ok, got it

 

[ELP_JC]

An alternative is to use the impact method of removal.

Good suggestion. I did that with my 1/2" ratchet and my right palm, and broke loose easily. But the final drive one was much tighter, and probably messed up a thread or two, as there was some metal there, but after cleaning up the mess, everything felt perfect, so who knows. I'm not worried about it.

By the way, I replaced the steel stock washers with aluminum Honda ones; identical size, and much better choice IMO. Later.

JC

 

[painman]

Whatever you do, do not torque the drain plug to factory specs. There are pleanty of threads here of folks stripping the drain plug with factory torque's on that plug. PM. <><

 

[frayne]

Whatever you do, do not torque the drain plug to factory specs. There are pleanty of threads here of folks stripping the drain plug with factory torque's on that plug. PM. <><

What painman said, however the bolt threads don't strip but the pan threads do, trust me on this.

 

[keithaba]

What has happened is the threads from the pan coming out with the plug on it's first removal. If it is soooo tight that it won't come out, might not be such a bad idea to have the dealer do the first change so that the problem becomes his and Yamahas should this happen. An alternative is to use the impact method of removal. Rather than a steady pull on the wrench, tap it with a hammer to break it loose. This is less likely to pull the threads out, and it works on a shorter lever (wrench handle) also.

Just don't do that with your torque wrench. It will not be happy with you.

 

[Feejer/Weejer man]

What has happened is the threads from the pan coming out with the plug on it's first removal. If it is soooo tight that it won't come out, might not be such a bad idea to have the dealer do the first change so that the problem becomes his and Yamahas should this happen. An alternative is to use the impact method of removal. Rather than a steady pull on the wrench, tap it with a hammer to break it loose. This is less likely to pull the threads out, and it works on a shorter lever (wrench handle) also.

Just don't do that with your torque wrench. It will not be happy with you.

I have only used the torque wrench once with the FJR, almost a big mistake. What ever happened to the old way of just tighten it up and give it a little extra. With the crush washer no need to wrench it down to torque specs.

 

[odot]

Good idea, kids.....lets all just disregard what the manual says.

 

[MikeYork5]

Advice---- can you say 6pt socket?

 

[Scab]

Advice---- can you say 6pt socket?

What? These won't work???

 

[huron52]

Actually the dealer would like to do the oil change at the first change. They like to look for anything in the oil that shouldn't be there. Also they like to check over the bike for anything not right. Not saying they will find anything.

 

[racer157]

There is a tried and true method that most mechanics use. Take a normal lenth box end wrench six point if possible and turn the bolt head counter clockwise , at the same time take a hammer and smack the head of the bolt firmly. The combination of the hammer and the wrench will remove the most stuborn of bolts. When you replace the bolt lube the threads with oil and torque to the proper spec. Good luck Wink Winckler aka Racer 157