Canyon cage install

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If you think any guy at the service dept where you have your bike serviced, picks up a torque wrench to tighten those bolts, you are disillusioned...

Spend some time in a service shop for a day... you'll get a kick outta of it...

 
If you think any guy at the service dept where you have your bike serviced, picks up a torque wrench to tighten those bolts, you are disillusioned... Spend some time in a service shop for a day... you'll get a kick outta of it...
I have no doubt about that. Nor do they have much of a "feel", in many cases. Both of the tabs on the windshield trim pieces on my new FJR were cracked when I got my bike home. How they didn't blow off, I have no idea.

But that innate feel for proper torque? I'm fortunate to employ one of the best diesel mechanics in my region. He has that. It came from years of using torque wrenches.

But to the original topic, I backed mine off and re-torqued to 35.

 
If you think any guy at the service dept where you have your bike serviced, picks up a torque wrench to tighten those bolts, you are disillusioned...

Spend some time in a service shop for a day... you'll get a kick outta of it...
I have no doubt about that. Nor do they have much of a "feel", in many cases. Both of the tabs on the windshield trim pieces on my new FJR were cracked when I got my bike home. How they didn't blow off, I have no idea.

But that innate feel for proper torque? I'm fortunate to employ one of the best diesel mechanics in my region. He has that. It came from years of using torque wrenches.

But to the original topic, I backed mine off and re-torqued to 35.
Exactly. No one is born with torque calibrations in their arms and hands. Most people that torque by "feel" overtorque everything. When I did the rather complicated valve adjustment on my VFR, I bought a good quality 1/4" drive torque wrench. I was astounded at how little torque was used to put the camshaft bearing caps back on. I think everyone would have put those on way too tight unless they either had a torque wrench or had developed that "feel" from years of using one. The fact that some rushed dimbulb at a dealer doesn't bother to properly torque fasteners, is not reason for me to do the same. I don't torque every fairing screw or cable clamp bolt on my bike, but anything that could remotely be regarded as important from motor mounts to caliper bolts gets torqued to the factory setting. There is a science to threaded fasteners and too tight is almost as bad as too loose.

 
If you think any guy at the service dept where you have your bike serviced, picks up a torque wrench to tighten those bolts, you are disillusioned...
I have no doubt about that. Nor do they have much of a "feel", in many cases. Both of the tabs on the windshield trim pieces on my new FJR were cracked when I got my bike home. How they didn't blow off, I have no idea.

But that innate feel for proper torque? I'm fortunate to employ one of the best diesel mechanics in my region. He has that. It came from years of using torque wrenches.

But to the original topic, I backed mine off and re-torqued to 35.
Exactly. No one is born with torque calibrations in their arms and hands. Most people that torque by "feel" overtorque everything. When I did the rather complicated valve adjustment on my VFR, I bought a good quality 1/4" drive torque wrench. I was astounded at how little torque was used to put the camshaft bearing caps back on. I think everyone would have put those on way too tight unless they either had a torque wrench or had developed that "feel" from years of using one. The fact that some rushed dimbulb at a dealer doesn't bother to properly torque fasteners, is not reason for me to do the same. I don't torque every fairing screw or cable clamp bolt on my bike, but anything that could remotely be regarded as important from motor mounts to caliper bolts gets torqued to the factory setting. There is a science to threaded fasteners and too tight is almost as bad as too loose.
I highly recommend reading this entire thread. It starts out talking about torquing the oil pan bolt but expands into other fasteners, crush washers and then gets into the mechanics of torque and clamping force. It's a little slow starting but picks up speed ;)

If you want to shortcut things, then start by watching the video in this post, and then read the rest of the thread.

If I could, I would LIKE the thread.

 
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I have read that thread and being in the maintenance business I have read multiple engineering treatises about torque and clamping pressure. Since we can't measure pressure directly on your bikes, we have to rely on torque. We just need to take care for the condition of our fasteners so that the clamping pressure we produce is close to that required. The idea that tightening by "feel" is better is based on opinion. All you are feeling is the torque required to move the wrench and I don't think anyone can feel it better than a good torque wrench can measure it. If you rely on feel, I can pretty much guarantee you are leaving your large fasteners too loose and your small fasteners too tight.

 
The rears look like they'd rob sorely needed footroom from the passenger. Fronts look awesome.

 
I ordered front and rear canyon cage protection from a dealer in Lafeyette, La for my 2014 FJR. The dealer said The box for the front cage was missing instructions for whatever reason. He didn't open the box for case guards. They arrive this Wednesday and I would like to have instructions. Can someone scan and email me directions for front and rear (just in case they are missing as well)? Email is [email protected].

Thanks

 
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