CCT removed seems to function ok in my hand

[ttreewalkerr]

Hi,

I recently purchased a 2006 from someone who was gettign out of riding. 34,000 miles.

It has the marble in a can sound on RH side, so i assumed CCT and got a decent price for purchase.

I have now removed it on day 1, in my hand it seemed to function good, and springs back well. i assumed it maybe wa just hung up and perhaps removal and cycling it may have freed it up. I put it back in and started it, heard the sound again, usually takes about 1 min. after cold start to make the gargle. And gets adjitated if you rev it,, bring RPM up and it goes away. Mainly at idle or if you rap the throttle on/off.

when it was running i put the small screwdriver into the adjust hole, and see if i preloaded it a bit it may ease the sound,, assuming the spring in the mechanism maybe weak. i noticed the screw in the mechanism was spinning,, actually moving. I assume it was feedback from the plunger being forced back and forth.

So i removed it again, and ordered new one online.

i got the new on out,, played with it in my vise trying to get it to push back,, doesnt. Seems fine.

Anyone ever play w/ a suspected failed part ? Is it just that the abrupt force of the cahin that i can't simulate out of the bike is what pushes that plunger back ?

Thx.

 

[FJRay]

I took one apart and converted it to a manual adjust type. I ran it for about 20k before changing it out for the newest version.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You should have to turn the flat screw (under the bolt on the end) CLOCKWISE, WHILE pushing in the tension-er rod.

It should retract then.

New, it should have come with a small part/retainer that held it retracted.

Once installed, you'd pull the retainer, the tensioner rod extends out...

You may be able to start the tensioner extended, turn the screw clockwise allowing the CCT to get closer to

the block as you tighten the two main mounting bolts. Repeat until the tensioner is fully seated...

 

[ttreewalkerr]

I have a new one on order.... My question pertains to the USED old one........ Im fearing just like everyone that replaces one, that their is not a bad rod bearing or somthing.

I thought my OLD one once out of the bike, i should see that it jsut plunges with ease in my hand w/ no ratchet effect.

My description above is that in my hand it seems fine.

 

[TomInPA]

There is a lot of push from the original part, but more from the new one. It makes all the difference. The part I removed before installing the "blue dot" CCT was fine, but it let the chain flog just like yours. Once you put in the new part you will notice the difference. I don't think you can judge the part efficacy from hand-felt tension. The new part will extend wit more force.

 

[ttreewalkerr]

ok El,, thx. Just scares me to see it function, yet creates that noise,,, fear of other deeper issues possibly.

i do say the spring to wind up in my stock CT is quite weak,,,,, as i recall working on my WR426 woods bike, that CCT is strong, so storng it's somwhat hard to wind up.

 

[escapefjrtist]

If it's the original CCT in your '06, you'll notice a significant difference in the plunger and spring tension when compared to the new part.

Just my $.02 but I wouldn't be playing much and reinstalling the (old) CCT. If the noise is noticeable then you're playing the equivalent

of Russian roulette with the FJRs interference engine. A slipped chain and missed timing is not a pretty sight...

Good luck!

--G

 

[ttreewalkerr]

I did get the stock one to fail on my bench this time. Awaiting my part in mail.

Thx.

 

[Fred W]

You are a far braver man than I am. Diddling with the tensioner on a running engine is a great way to ruin the engine. When you feel the tension of the new part and compare it to the old one you'll understand why the old one was backing up and allowing some chain slack. The downfall of the design is that there is no positive ratcheting mechanism to hold the rod extended, just the spring tension.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It's funny you mention this Fred ( ^^^^ ).

On my old KLR 250, the cam chain is easily twice as long

as the FJR's.

The one shop,(I've known the owners for MANY YEARS

and trust), I brought the bike to for the possible cam chain noise.

He pulled off the access bolt (similar design as the FJR) and turned

the internal screw in approx ONE turn and the noise went away-

CONFIRMING the CCT was bad.

Bought and installed a new CCT, noise was gone for remainder of the 73,000

miles I put on it (street)

 

[ttreewalkerr]

Ugg, manual cct came in, installed it. Still makes the noise. Deeper issue.

Started new thread.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Dude,stop starting new threads. It's a PITA trying to keep track of what's been asked and answered. It's the SAME issue. You should have posted here.

That being said, do you have a stethoscope? Are you sure the noise is coming from the motor and not somewhere in the fairing?

 

[Auburn]

Ugg, manual cct came in, installed it. Still makes the noise. Deeper issue.Started new thread.

you might need to replace the cam chain guides also. I have an 06 and have updated the CCT. I don't have any noise, and my engine gets worked pretty hard. Always riding 2 up, and pulling a trailer for almost 2/3 of the miles on the bike.

Did you check the valve clearances? Might want to do a valve check to see if they are in spec. Very seldom do they need to have adjustments, but you never know. If it was ridden easy, it may have some carbon build up, may want to seafoam shock treat it to clean them up first.

 

[ttreewalkerr]

I found this video, souND is similar. When cold start has zero sound, sounds great,, after 1 min. It starts.

 

[ttreewalkerr]

Did a quick .13mm in each cam/bucket. Clearance is there. Don't think that's the issue.

Anything hydraulic with oil in there, if bad and it gets oil it starts to fail?

 

[ttreewalkerr]

Detonation? Happens to be on one right side.

Cold start it sounds perfect. Hmmm.

 

[HotRodZilla]

How does it run? No chance your chain is off a tooth? It's easy to let happen, but doesn't usually come with noise. If you're getting pre-detonation, you'd be the first FJR owner I've ever heard of. Any chance the chain is toast? If it ran with a bad tensioner long enough and slapped around long enough, you might have weird wear there that's just not letting the new tensioner do its job.

Then, as much as I hate to ask, are you sure you installed the new tensioner correctly? If you have any doubt, you may want to read up on it and recheck your steps. If you're sure of your work, I'd still recommend going back through, just to make sure you didn't miss something stupid. These motors are hard to mess up, and they don't usually make bad noises.

Any chance you have a bent valve? That'll make a hellavua racket. You should probably do a compression test and a leak down test. Just to be sure you have good compression. If you do, valves are good. If not, that's bad news.

 

[ttreewalkerr]

Runs great, I drove it. Idles fine.

From both sides chain looks fine, cam gears look fine.

With the manual adjuster I snuggled it up, started bike, and changed tension to see it had no effect on the sound.

I did say, it purrs when cold, zero sound, in 1 min. Or so the sound starts.

It's not a tick, more like a gargle like that video I posted.

I went to upstroke on rh side 2 pistons and put a rod down on piston to see if I heard a movement down in bearing gap,, seemed no play,, but doubtful I'd feel it like that.

Water pump ?

When I bring rpm up as little as I can, let's say, 3000 sound goes away, higher rpm on steady no sound. Only idle when warm, and I can upset it by small burps of throttle. If I let it idle after upsetting it it calms to a garole clunky sound come and go.

When driving it under load no sound, just at a light at idle you can hear it.

My compression tester doesn't have small threads for this bike,, I'll see today if anywhere local has a 10mm threaded piece to test.

Getting close to put it back together and take it to the shop.

The old guy who owned it said it made that sound last year and he drove it like that,, he thought the cct was stuck in adjustment and needed some time to click to next spot.

 

[ttreewalkerr]

Update. It's clutch related. I just started it, and decided to pull in clutch, it stops the noise.

I drove it, clutch acts fine. I do notice I have the lever on one, and I have to put the lever to the bar to disengage.

Anyone know ?