RossKean
Well-known member
Bleed the clutch and go from there. My Yamaha Roadstar used to be noisy in neutral but quieted down with the clutch pulled. Maybe a bit with the FJR but not significant. Never seemed to hurt anything on the RS.
CCT removed seems to function ok in my hand
- Thread starter ttreewalkerr
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escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
What's the hot idle speed set at? FJRs make all sorts of ugly sounds (and stall) with too low idle speed.
Shoot for a fully warmed up hot idle of 1100-1200 RPM and see what that does to the noise.
--G
Shoot for a fully warmed up hot idle of 1100-1200 RPM and see what that does to the noise.
--G
ttreewalkerr
Well-known member
Here it is.
Bleeding g clutch may fix mushyness, or lever to bar. But I dont think air in li e creates this rattle.
Take a listen.
https://youtu.be/LG4kHXOsZVA
Bleeding g clutch may fix mushyness, or lever to bar. But I dont think air in li e creates this rattle.
Take a listen.
https://youtu.be/LG4kHXOsZVA
ttreewalkerr
Well-known member
Escape,
My throttle is crap due to I can't find a routing with bends that make throttle nice and loose,,,, so with that said I can turn and throttle stick to 1200-1300 and zero noise.
How do I set idle when tank is on? Is it trial and error ?
Any trick to route throttle cables to not create so much drag as I have now ?
My throttle is crap due to I can't find a routing with bends that make throttle nice and loose,,,, so with that said I can turn and throttle stick to 1200-1300 and zero noise.
How do I set idle when tank is on? Is it trial and error ?
Any trick to route throttle cables to not create so much drag as I have now ?
RossKean
Well-known member
The drag on the throttle is likely because you don't have enough slack in the adjuster on the throttle cable. You need a couple mm free play at the grip or the cables may bind; especially with the bars turned.
#2 in the New Owners Read this section we suggested you read when you signed up. No need to do anything with the tank.
Warm the bike up, don't touch the throttle, and adjust to the RPM setting to what has been suggested.
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TownsendsFJR1300
Well-known member
Besides bleeding the clutch (to fix the mushiness) pulling in the clutch ALSO stops one of the main transmission shafts from spinning.
Could be something as simple as a bearing, (part #15) failing or something deeper:
https://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2006/FJR13ABS+-+FJR13AV/CLUTCH/parts.html
I'd at least pull the clutch cover and make an inspection... Shouldn't be too hard to find as noisy as it is....
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ttreewalkerr
Well-known member
Ign,
I see no dial on rh side. I have no cowl on rh side presently, no screw deep in there either. This is a 2006.
I see no dial on rh side. I have no cowl on rh side presently, no screw deep in there either. This is a 2006.
TownsendsFJR1300
Well-known member
Part #28 IS your idle set screw, (should be view-able just under the frame rail, (star board side):
https://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2006/FJR13ABS+-+FJR13AV/INTAKE+2/parts.html
CLOCKWISE to raise, CC to lower RPMs.
Should be in your owners manual as well..
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Based on current symptoms, my guess is that this is your clutch basket damper springs are rattling. This is a common symptom on Suzuki DL1000's and SV10000's. If you look at the back side of the clutch basket you can see that there are six springs arranged around in a circle. These springs are supposed to cushion the power pulse delivery from the rapidly accelerating and decelerating crankshaft where it is directly gear coupled into the clutch basket. The springs are held in place by a riveted plate. The springs are not all activated at the same time, but rather are engaged progressively.
When you you pull in the clutch you remove the output load of the transmission input shaft, and change the mechanical resonance of the system. I would follow the prior advice and go in and get a look at the clutch parts. The good news is that if you ignore it, it probably won't become a big deal. But I'd want to know what it was regardless.
When you you pull in the clutch you remove the output load of the transmission input shaft, and change the mechanical resonance of the system. I would follow the prior advice and go in and get a look at the clutch parts. The good news is that if you ignore it, it probably won't become a big deal. But I'd want to know what it was regardless.
ttreewalkerr
Well-known member
Town,
Thx, there is a plastic piece in way, part of the foil. Moved it, see it.
Need to get a security torc bit. That's the one in my set I broke year ago.
.
Thx, there is a plastic piece in way, part of the foil. Moved it, see it.
Need to get a security torc bit. That's the one in my set I broke year ago.
.
ttreewalkerr
Well-known member
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Fred W" data-cid="1377610" data-time="1504055181"><p>
Based on current symptoms, my guess is that this is your clutch basket damper springs are rattling. This is a common symptom on Suzuki DL1000's and SV10000's. If you look at the back side of the clutch basket you can see that there are six springs arranged around in a circle. These springs are supposed to cushion the power pulse delivery from the rapidly accelerating and decelerating crankshaft where it is directly gear coupled into the clutch basket. The springs are held in place by a riveted plate. The springs are not all activated at the same time, but rather are engaged progressively. <br />
<br />
When you you pull in the clutch you remove the output load of the transmission input shaft, and change the mechanical resonance of the system. I would follow the prior advice and go in and get a look at the clutch parts. The good news is that if you ignore it, it probably won't become a big deal. But I'd want to know what it was regardless.</p></blockquote>
Based on current symptoms, my guess is that this is your clutch basket damper springs are rattling. This is a common symptom on Suzuki DL1000's and SV10000's. If you look at the back side of the clutch basket you can see that there are six springs arranged around in a circle. These springs are supposed to cushion the power pulse delivery from the rapidly accelerating and decelerating crankshaft where it is directly gear coupled into the clutch basket. The springs are held in place by a riveted plate. The springs are not all activated at the same time, but rather are engaged progressively. <br />
<br />
When you you pull in the clutch you remove the output load of the transmission input shaft, and change the mechanical resonance of the system. I would follow the prior advice and go in and get a look at the clutch parts. The good news is that if you ignore it, it probably won't become a big deal. But I'd want to know what it was regardless.</p></blockquote>
ttreewalkerr
Well-known member
Fred,
I'm going to try to raise idle to 1200 tomorrow. To see if no sound.
It probley is those springs at low rpm.
I'm going to try to raise idle to 1200 tomorrow. To see if no sound.
It probley is those springs at low rpm.
TownsendsFJR1300
Well-known member
You shouldn't need a torx to adjust the idle. I don't remember but either by hand or a phillips head screw driver.
As there's really very little load on the idle screw, often an allan key will fit or simply the correct sized FLAT screwdriver.
(I know my old '04 didn't take a torx bit for the adjuster).
BTW, most torx "safety" screws(with the pin in the middle), that pin can be easily snapped off with a small screw driver inserted, and pried at.
Here's you clutch assembly along with the springs at the rear of the hub:
https://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2006/FJR13ABS+-+FJR13AV/CLUTCH/parts.html
As there's really very little load on the idle screw, often an allan key will fit or simply the correct sized FLAT screwdriver.
(I know my old '04 didn't take a torx bit for the adjuster).
BTW, most torx "safety" screws(with the pin in the middle), that pin can be easily snapped off with a small screw driver inserted, and pried at.
Here's you clutch assembly along with the springs at the rear of the hub:
https://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2006/FJR13ABS+-+FJR13AV/CLUTCH/parts.html
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ttreewalkerr
Well-known member
06, it's a torques
TownsendsFJR1300
Well-known member
Perhaps a mis-communication; TORX bit
https://www.amazon.com/torx-bit/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Atorx%20bit
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ttreewalkerr
Well-known member
Ok, your right,, it's not the torques. I took tank off. Rh side of bike I see nothing likw what I see in diagram.
I don't see idle screw...
2006
I don't see idle screw...
2006
ttreewalkerr
Well-known member
ttreewalkerr
Well-known member
ttreewalkerr
Well-known member
Found it,,, previous owner had it hanging.
It's a hose with cable inside,, I was looking for a shaft with dial.
It's a hose with cable inside,, I was looking for a shaft with dial.
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