CCT removed seems to function ok in my hand

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Found it,,, previous owner had it hanging.
Making noise, major back and forth to find a hanging cable, the user didn't tell you about a Starcom installed, a Powerlet install was a mystery,

Me thinks this bike is heading into the "special project" category and YOU should seriously do some more forum reading and research BEFORE the next issue comes up. The forum's is very helpful, but it also rewards people that contribute and do some self-help as well.
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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="TownsendsFJR1300" data-cid="1377811" data-time="1504267601"><p>

What was the idle set at BEFORE and now?</p></blockquote>

It would start cold at 1500, then warm to 900,, clutch basket would gargle, springs are probley getting sacked. Idle dial was maxed, carb air screws were completely turned in all the way, all 4.

I backed out each air screw to 1.5 turns out, idie screw then did a little somthing, so set warm idle at 1200-1300.

Perfect, just purrs.

Maybe one day I'll get a new clutch basket for it, I know the springs are loose,,, but for now I don't need it.

Cracked on the throttle, 2nd gear I was at 70 before I could look down. Smooth, quiet, strong, no vibrations.

Dang I like this bike !

 
Well, someone was definitely dinking under the tank..

Get a hold of a throttle body sync tool and do a TB sync, it's going to need it.

As the idle screw / cable, etc was messed with as well, you might want to open up the parts

diagram while your under the tank and check for anything else that's been messed with.

 
I belive the throttlebody stop screw needs to be cranked a bit so I can get the real idle adjust in middle of its stroke.

But i am not pulling the carBS out to get to it.... it's running great, and I wanna get some time in before fall hits.

 
I belive the throttlebody stop screw needs to be cranked a bit so I can get the real idle adjust in middle of its stroke.But i am not pulling the carBS out to get to it.... it's running great, and I wanna get some time in before fall hits.
12-1300 is plenty. I kept mine at 1100 warm, inside spec, (less first gear clunking too)..

IE, your main idle, MANUAL screw adjuster puts you currently pretty darn close (as in lowering if anything)..

Your turning out the air screws is what you should (and did) do when you run out of adjustment with the air screws.

The sync is pretty easy, doesn't take and hour going slow, fine tuning at 4k RPM's as well...

BTW, you don't pull the THROTTLE BODIES to adjust any of it.

 
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Maybe one day I'll get a new clutch basket for it, I know the springs are loose,,, but for now I don't need it.
As an FYI... 4 of the 6 springs are always loose, if it is anything like the Suzuki clutches I mentioned earlier. They engage sequentially to provide a progressive resistance to the torque pulses. They are also of different spring rates, with the shorter ones being heavier. The two longest springs should be slightly preloaded when installed.

When Vstrom people were noticing clutch chudder, some of the earliest backyard hack mechanics were jamming washers into the spaces to try to alleviate the symptoms. The real noise and chudder was because the retaining plates were coming loose and floating under torque. A couple of different guys now rework the baskets, replacing the rivets that hold the retaining plates on with some Allen head bolts.

But even on those, which got so bad you could feel the driveline vibration at certain rpms, they seldom ever resulted in any serious problems. Can't recall any stories of clutches fragging due to loose parts.

I belive the throttlebody stop screw needs to be cranked a bit so I can get the real idle adjust in middle of its stroke.
No! Don't mess with the 4 mechanical stop screws. The linkage should never actually hit those screws, ever. They are just set to prevent the butterflies from ever getting closed so far that hey jam or score into the throttle bore.

The way to get the idle adjust into the center of its range is to use the four air screws that you use to sync the TBs together. You can open all 4 screws or close all four screws the same amount to affect the idle speed with your idle adjuster pre-set to mid range. The idle speed adjuster is just another air bypass on your 2nd Gen bike.

Once you are happy with idle speed just resync to the one(s) with median vacuum to maintain about the same idle speed.

I wrote up a procedure several years ago on how you can adjust the throttle mechanical linkage called the "Really Completely UnAuthorized TBS", that you should be able to find on here if you want to give that a go.

 
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I've put 300 + miles on this baby so far, love it.

I have noticed the clutch is a little tough in traffic. So I just ordered a 2005 slave to out on to May e help ease that pull.

Only concern is stroke,, lever is already close to bar to get in N easy on setting 1.

Fingers crossed.

 
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