Cement for fairing parts

[teerex51]

I'm trying to fix the upper right cowl of an FJR.

The fairing part is virtually pristine, but one of the mounting tabs inside is broken.

Is there a glue or cement that works well on ABS? I've been thinking of using a 2-component epoxy glue, maybe reinforcing it with a fine wire mesh or something.

Has anybody had some success with this?

Thanks

Stef

 

[tyronewildman]

Teerex51, Myself & others have used J-B WELD to glue broken plastic tabs, back onto fairing peices. This has worked on Honda side panel tabs and broken fairing tabs. I have even heard of guys building up a new tab out of this stuff to replace a lost broken tab. Most auto parts places carry this.

LOL Later,,, De

 

[FNG]

There is an article in MCN this month on this very subject-and they are crowing about the results. If someone doesn't post here on it before tonight, I will post the name and source of the product. They made this same repair, and it turned out better than new.

 

[jestal]

You can also "weld" it with a soldering gun and some scrap plastic trimmed from an area where it is not seen or necessary...or another panel that is scrap. There are some soldering gun tips that are flat like a putty knife that are designed to heat plastic. Lay small slivers of scrap plastic along the crack and melt it in (on the backside of course) with the soldering gun tip. I would do this in addition to adding some additional material with JB Weld or something else. I have had pretty good luck with simple RTV or silicone seal backed up with small pieces of aluminum. RTV is an excellent adhesive and if you clean and sand the surfaces good it will stick and remain flexible enough to not simply crack off when deflected. Lay a later of RTV and press the small piece of aluminum (pop can material) into the RTV and let it set up for at least a day. The trick with the RTV is to have the surfaces sanded, clean with alcohol (isopropanol or rubbing alcohol) and let it set unmoved for at least a day. Most people try to use the joint too soon and think it will not hold. RTV takes awhile to reach it's maximum strength especially if it is thick.

So...how are your injuries healing up? Mobil yet?

 

[teerex51]

Thanks for the great tips folks! B)

Now I know why I bought JB Weld last time I was in the US. (I always bring back all kinds of products just in case... My wife thinks I'm disturbed, though)

Jestal, I'm hobbling along (can't even drive a car) but I'm getting there. 2 weeks until they finally pull these K-wires from my foot. That'll be fun :dribble:

This forced "downtime" is ideal for little precision jobs, like building model airplanes or fixing the broken fairing tabs...

Stef

 

[murf]

I had the rear support for panel "D" break in half. This support is bolted to the frame. I fixed it with a Loctite product called Stik'n Seal. It is a waterproof adhesive. So far the repair has held up with no problems.

 

[FNG]

Stef, the product is called Plastex. Available from Hamilton Performance Products in Woodland Hills, Cal, web site [email protected]. It's a 2 part plastic resin and comes with mesh reinforcing cloth and all, will work better than JB as it is the same material the body part is made from. The article says he used it on a mounting tab (as in highly stressed/breakable) and it's held up for a year. looks to be just the ticket for the job you describe.

 

[jwit6]

Why wouldn't you use ABS cement? Same stuff they use for black plastic ABS pipe. Available at any good hardware store. Used it on my old Goldwing Saddlebags after I got rear ended with good results.

 

[nusman68]

+1 for JBWeld; I had to repair one of the inner tabs on the lower fairing (and another tab on the triangular piece under the radiator) awhile back after it got cleanly sheared off during a collision with a kamikaze racoon at 80+;

I cleaned and abraded the area with a wire brush in a Dremel first to help it grip; have had no issues since. Ironically, my Fenda Extenda *also* broke off cleanly, despite the fact I had it attached for nearly a year with ABS cement. The area it was cemented to looked decent, like it had plenty of surface area after it was cured, but it sure didn't hold up. I replaced it, and it is now bolted on with stainless bolts & acorn nuts.

 

[T120TT]

What should I use to glue the rubber strip back on my bag lid? That's the strip with the Yamaha logo in the middle.

 

[FlyingLow]

Add me to the JB Weld cult :lol: .

 

[dobias]

Teerex51,

Last summer I hit a deer & broke most of the mounting tabs from the front & right side including the headlight tabs. Over the winter I JB welded them & had to cut them back apart & keep redoing them until I could get them aligned properly.

You must be able to lay the part down to let the JB weld "puddle" where you want it or you won't have a decent fix. Use tape to make a dam around the tab base to hold the JB til it sets up. I found that used dryer softener cloths are excellent to build up & reenforce the breaks. Don't try to be neat, just cut off the surplus cloth

after it drys.

I'm sure you'll need more than what you have. Don't hesitate to ask for more. I'll be glad to send some.

The headlight tabs were the hardest to fix because they are made of the slippery plastic (a technical term). Alignment will be a trial & error fix. That's why you'll use a lot of JB.

I have a very strong set of repairs to show for my efforts.

I also have a buggered up paint job because handling the parts transfers the epoxy film from your hands to the parts. Be forwarned & maybe have a helper clean the painted surface as you go.

dobias <_<

 

[FJRandy]

Whenever I have to repair a customer's motorcycle fairing or auto dash panel, I use a product called Duramix made by 3M.

It comes in all different types, but I stay with the 4040 or the 4058.

This stuff is used to repair automotive bumpers and is strong as Hell. The 4058 dries HARD in 10 mins. The 4040 takes a few hours to set hard, but is much easier to work with.

https://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/a...ler/output_html

Of course for one small repair it's not worth it, but I use the stuff all the time to fabricate and repair. The special gun needed to apply it costs around $70. I just used the 4058 to enlarge my rear trunk without using any fiberglass reinforcement.

The stuff is strong as an SOB, and sands glass smooth.

 

[T120TT]

I used 4040 to glue my repaired bag lids to the inner panels. Very strong stuff.

 

[teerex51]

Thanks everyone, this Forum is a-f***ing-mazing

So much information and such excellent practical tips. Much obliged. :good:

Dobias,

they are made of the slippery plastic

Yep, I know exactly what you mean... My RH headlight assy. tab is busted, too, and I knew that polymer was trouble the minute I picked up the broken bits.. (injection molding geeks pro'lly call it Delrin or something cute).

Aaaw well, while my riding buddies are out catching bugs with their teeth I'll be messing around with glues and resins on the kitchen table...

Stef

 

[OrangevaleFJR]

Thanks for the great tips folks! B)
Now I know why I bought JB Weld last time I was in the US. (I always bring back all kinds of products just in case... My wife thinks I'm disturbed, though)

Jestal, I'm hobbling along (can't even drive a car) but I'm getting there. 2 weeks until they finally pull these K-wires from my foot. That'll be fun :dribble:

This forced "downtime" is ideal for little precision jobs, like building model airplanes or fixing the broken fairing tabs...

Stef

Getting things pulled out is a strange sensation, not as bad as I thought it would be pain wise.

 

[dcarver]

Aaaw well, while my riding buddies are out catching bugs with their teeth I'll be messing around with glues and resins on the kitchen table... 

...and grinning like a mad hatter from the fumes...

 

[afterburn]

Acetone (sp), commonly used as nailpolish remover, works wonders as ABS glue.

 

[teerex51]

Job done, thanks for the input everyone.

With a little time on my hands I ran a few comparative tests using different materials for adhesive (I happen to have a quantity of mangled fairing parts thanks to my recent ...er...off-road foray).

And the winners are

1. No-name 2-component epoxy glue. Here you can get it at any DIY store and it comes in a double-barreled syringe. Easy as hell to use and cheap, too. Once cured it still remains very flexible and you can form some very effective beading with it.

The plastic tab on the left was missing from this otherwise pristine fairing part. So I transplanted it from another identical panel and epoxied it into position. I'll now have to work on the fastener holes to accommodate the extra thickness of the implanted part...

2. JB Weld. Slower to cure but also very good. The longer cure-time means that you have to prop up the two parts you're glueing together real good or they'll kind of sag apart. Also v. good for beading. Not available in Yurrup but I happened to have it.

Professional adhesives for fairing parts, car bumpers etc. are also available here but you need to buy - say - a $200 kit. They don't come in Sunday-farkling sizes.

Ditto for US products that you can buy on the Web but need to be shipped over to Europe. The final price is not worth it.

Acetone will bond ABS but you can't do a bead with it. Smells good, though :sleepy:

PS: Dobias, I found out what the "slippery plastic" is: it's polypropylene and predictably a be-otch to fix. But I fixed it. The alternative was replacing the whole headlight assy. at a mere $200 :dribble: