Center Stand removal?

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jmgrif

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 3, 2009
Messages
505
Reaction score
41
Location
Vernon, B.C.
I have loosened most bolts I can? I had hoped to swing the bracket down in order to remove the right side bolt that is stopped by hitting the exhaust? I just want to service the dog bone bolt that can't be removed because of the stupid center stand bracket! I have searched and sent a pm to CanadianFJR who posted about his experience a few years back! Anyone else having done this job, it would be greatly appreciated if they could direct me to the "easiest" way to do this!

 
Getting that bolt out is a *****. Many have cut it off and replaced it, installing it backwards to make insertion and removal a more reasonable task.

I think some have gotten it out...somehow. Mine saw the business end of a Dremmel and was replaced. That factory placement was stupid.

 
By the way, I have my bike on a scissor lift and the back of the bike in the air with an old race stand that seems to be ok? There is enough clearance to lift the center stand in the air enough to swing through its normal arc? Al if you've got nothing to do you're welcome to come down and I'll buy you lunch for the moral support! Just watch out for the turn off Westside road, you know the one I mean!

 
By the way, I have my bike on a scissor lift and the back of the bike in the air with an old race stand that seems to be ok? There is enough clearance to lift the center stand in the air enough to swing through its normal arc? Al if you've got nothing to do you're welcome to come down and I'll buy you lunch for the moral support! Just watch out for the turn off Westside road, you know the one I mean!
Oh yeah! Road Rash Blvd.
rolleyes.gif


My insurance runs out soon. I'll be doing the same job over winter.

 
On 1st gen bikes you can get the right side center stand bolt out by removing the exhaust support bolt at the passenger peg (you'll already have removed the exhaust support bolt at the center stand) and springing the entire exhaust pipe out of the way a little. I don't recall if it was pushing it up or down, it should be fairly intuitive when you get to that point. The pipes will flex just enough to squeak that bolt out and then you can turn it around when you reinstall it later. I'm pretty sure that all the dimensions are the same on the 2nd gen.

Once you get the center stand out of the way you still will not be able to get the long upper relay arm pivot bolt out until you get the right side spacer free (which is often frozen in it's bore). But, if you shove that bolt all the way to the right the threaded end of the bolt will clear the relay arm and you can wiggle it down and out with the bolt and spacer still in place.

Once the relay arm is out (which was your primary goal) you can now put the nut back on the long bolt and use the bolt itself to pull the spacer through its hole (to the left). The head of the bolt is just barely smaller that the OD of the spacer (and the ID of the spacer's hole). Just be sure to use lots of penetrating oil and you may want to jam some sockets or other metal between the two frame tabs to help support them and prevent the casting from breaking off.

Alternately, you can just leave the frozen spacer right where it is and work the relay arm back into position behind it after servicing the bearings. I did that the first time I serviced my bearings. The second time I took the extra time to press the spacer using the bolt out and greased it well before reinstalling it. We'll see if it gets frozen in there again.

Another alternative is to just bite the bullet and remove the exhaust header entirely. Then both bolts can be easily removed. That spacer will still be stuck in there, but you can easily get a shorter bolt and sockets of the appropriate sizes in there to press it out (to the right).

 
Thanks Fred, we're just getting up in this part of the world so after my morning coffee I'll go back with a fresh approach!

 
Just had a chat with Scott, CanadianFJR. He wrestled with this problem a couple of years back. I was thinking of dropping the exhaust from the headers but, just removing the rad looks daunting! Scott replaced his headers some time ago and he had trouble getting the old header bolts out at that time. His experience says if I don't have to drop the exhaust don't!

 
Scott is right. I have had my head pipes off (twice) in my ownership. You can do it without removing the radiator fully, just remove the lower bolts and all of the hoses and then pivot it up and forward, but you do have to drain and refill the coolant and it isn't all that fun

Just flex those exhaust pipes and try to get the bolt out. It that doesn't work, dremel / sawzall it out and replace with a new bolt.

 
Thanks Fred, that looks like the way to go! At least at this time of year my season is coming to a close so!

 
Thanks Scott and Fred. After spending a few more minutes pondering I removed a couple of bolts that had been loosened only, voilà, brackets moved a little bit and the only two bolts still left were in a spot that I could reach with my cutoff wheel. If I can get part no.'s I will try Yamaha for these? Boy am I glad I didn't try and drop the exhaust.

 
I have had the headers off of my 08 a couple of times. No radiator removeal or coolant drain required. I did have to cut down an allen bit to use in a 1/4 drive socket.

 
I have had the headers off of my 08 a couple of times. No radiator removeal or coolant drain required. I did have to cut down an allen bit to use in a 1/4 drive socket.
I would be curious about how you made out? I cut the bolts in question as you may see but others may want to see another way to do this! At first I thought the only way was to drop the exhaust but now I'm convinced just cutting two bolts is way easier? As I said earlier without removing the loosened bolts I thought the bracket was fixed but? I was wrong! Of course when I replace the bolts I cut, I will reverse their point of entry for the next removal time! Don't you just love this forum!

 
I have not yet removed the centerstand. I only posted to note that the header removal on Gen II did not require radiator removal.

From the sound of it I would cut the bolts as well.

 
I cut the bolts to get it off a while back...centerstand is coming off again this winter to be sandblasted and painted...what would be the toughest paint to recoat?

 
Top