Change the handlebar angle - have you done it?

[EXPDSGT]

On Sept 7th 2006 I posted that I had removed the one (of two) outside pins of my Gen II 2006 handlebars. This allowed me to not only move the bars up and back but also move only the ends of the bars to aline more with my hands as they hit the grips. These pins are only "line-up" pins and one was all that would be needed (in my opinion) as there is a large bolt that really holds the bars on. I have had then like this for over two years and over 10,000 miles with no problems. The first couple of months, I checked that they were still tight and found no problem.

My question is -- I know several of you did this adjustment and I was wondering if anyone has had any type of problem with the modification, as some worried. Before my wrists would begin hurting after a couple of hours. Now I am fine for the whole day. Please let me knnow if you have done this and if you had any issues. Thank You

 

[Ordrock]

When the dealer did the ignition change out, I had them pull the bars back. It allows me to ride a little further before my stinkin right arm goes dumb. You will feel a difference with the angle change.

Good luck to ya

Semper Fi

 

[Abercrombie FJR]

When the dealer did the ignition change out, I had them pull the bars back. It allows me to ride a little further before my stinkin right arm goes dumb. You will feel a difference with the angle change.
Good luck to ya

Semper Fi

I think I will give moving the bars back a try. I would like to get rid of a little numbness myself.

 

[Mississippi]

I also did this mod about two years ago. Checked it regularly and they have never loosened up. I found that the additional angle that I could move the bars helped my wrists.

 

[Harald]

When the dealer did the ignition change out, I had them pull the bars back. It allows me to ride a little further before my stinkin right arm goes dumb. You will feel a difference with the angle change.
Good luck to ya

Semper Fi

I don't think that's what the OP was referring to. I doubt a dealer would modify your grips in such a manner (but I've been wrong before).

To clarify, Yamaha made the handlebars adjustable in the fore and aft direction only (which is what I'm sure your dealer did to your bike). The OP was talking about removing 2 pins that will also allow the each handlebar to rotate in a circular arc.

I haven't modded mine because the handlebars work for me in the stock position, but I can see where this mod would be usefull.

 

[EXPDSGT]

When the dealer did the ignition change out, I had them pull the bars back. It allows me to ride a little further before my stinkin right arm goes dumb. You will feel a difference with the angle change.
Good luck to ya

Semper Fi

I don't think that's what the OP was referring to. I doubt a dealer would modify your grips in such a manner (but I've been wrong before).

To clarify, Yamaha made the handlebars adjustable in the fore and aft direction only (which is what I'm sure your dealer did to your bike). The OP was talking about removing 2 pins that will also allow the each handlebar to rotate in a circular arc.

I haven't modded mine because the handlebars work for me in the stock position, but I can see where this mod would be usefull.

Yes; I am talking about removing the two outside line-up pins from under the handlebar mounts. Some dealers might do this but you can do it yourself pretty easily. It gives you another option to change the angle of the grips so your hands hit the bars more evenly. Relieves the twist put on your wrist.

 

[bob-st]

Did you rotate the bars forward or aft (toward the rider)?

 

[Silverbullet]

On the Gen 1 FJR the angle was fine, but I needed bar risers to keep my wrists comfortable. On the Gen 2, the height was fine for me, but the slightly different angle of the grips would cause some discomfort on long days for me. I did the mod back then (about 25k ago) and have had no issues whatsoever. I had one pin that simply would not come out so I cut it off. The change in angle was just what my wrists needed.

 

[EXPDSGT]

On the Gen 1 FJR the angle was fine, but I needed bar risers to keep my wrists comfortable. On the Gen 2, the height was fine for me, but the slightly different angle of the grips would cause some discomfort on long days for me. I did the mod back then (about 25k ago) and have had no issues whatsoever. I had one pin that simply would not come out so I cut it off. The change in angle was just what my wrists needed.

That was exactly the same reason I did mine. We started looking at the bars to see how we could change the angle to the wrists (not just the forward and back movement). By removing the outside pin the bars can be rotated (not possibble with both pins in) but still have one pin that locates the bars so they will be even.

It does make a big difference on long days. I don't believe it reduces the strength of the bars as these are just "locating" pins

I moved mine all the way back to the rear and then moved the grips forward about 2-3 inches to get the right angle. I think that you can move the ends of the pars about 4-5 inches so you can pretty much get the angle you want. Before while holding the grips my elbows were forced in when I held the grips.

 

[Harald]

When the dealer did the ignition change out, I had them pull the bars back. It allows me to ride a little further before my stinkin right arm goes dumb. You will feel a difference with the angle change.
Good luck to ya

Semper Fi

I don't think that's what the OP was referring to. I doubt a dealer would modify your grips in such a manner (but I've been wrong before).

To clarify, Yamaha made the handlebars adjustable in the fore and aft direction only (which is what I'm sure your dealer did to your bike). The OP was talking about removing 2 pins that will also allow the each handlebar to rotate in a circular arc.

I haven't modded mine because the handlebars work for me in the stock position, but I can see where this mod would be usefull.

Yes; I am talking about removing the two outside line-up pins from under the handlebar mounts. Some dealers might do this but you can do it yourself pretty easily. It gives you another option to change the angle of the grips so your hands hit the bars more evenly. Relieves the twist put on your wrist.

I know that's what you did to your bars, but I wasn't sure if Ordrock was talking about the same thing. He said "pull the bars back" and it sounds like maybe the dealer just did the standard move the bars back into the rear position. I suppose there's dealers that will pull the pins, but most won't because of liability concerns.

Me personally, I'll pull the pins if I want the bar angle changed. :yahoo:

 

[Change]

Moved the bars all the way to the rear ("all the way" sounding a lot farther than it really is) shortly after I got the bike and have had zero repercussions. I had no numbness before the move and had had none since. Just allows a bit more of an upright posture, which was a major reason for buying this bike to begin with.

 

[flapsup]

I started by moving the bars to the rear most factory available position and that didn't help. Then I added risers, and that helped a little bit. Then I cut one of the locating pins off each side and rotated the bars backwards a little bit.

Then I put on a dash shelf and found the front brake lever was hitting the right side support arm of the dash shelf thanks to the risers. Inadvertent application of the front brake in a hard left turn at walking speed is not a good thing. So I rotated 'em back some more.

I finally got it about right. Good clearance, no cable issues, and finally, a wrist angle that my creaking joints can tolerate. No issues with loose bolts or any other problems after about 5,000 miles in this configuration.

Go for it!

 

[SKADOOSH]

I got my dealer to pull the pins, move the bars all the way forward, and rotate bars outward, to get a sportier feel (I would have liked to rotate the bars even farther if that was possible). Took them a couple of times, but finally got it right. I'm just worried that I'll lose the pins and not be able to pass them along if I ever sell the bike.

 

[RadioHowie]

I'm just worried that I'll lose the pins and not be able to pass them along if I ever sell the bike.

Put them is an empty pill jar with a childproof cap WITH A NOTE INSIDE describing what they are for, and super-glue the jar in the tail section.

That way they'll always be with the bike, and if you forget about them and what they're for 5 years from now when you sell/trade it away, you'll find the pill jar when your removing all your farkles and junk, read the note and remember what the hell they are.

 

[fsubetcha]

I worked for 20 minutes trying to get one pin out using a vise grips. It slid out about 1/16th and that was it. The vise grips just didn't have the bite.

So out came the Dremel tool with a cutting disc. Those outisde pins cut like butter.

It also took an abrasion disc on the Dremel to sand off the remaining pin stub flush with the base. Just tape off the handlebar base to prevent scaring.

My bars are now mounted all the way back towards the rider with the grips pushed all the way forward in affect flatting the angle.

I've got happy hands now. No palm or wrist pain anymore.

Probably invested one hour in all and it is easier with a helper. Even a wife would do in a pinch.

 

[FJRGuy]

On Sept 7th 2006 I posted that I had removed the one (of two) outside pins of my Gen II 2006 handlebars. This allowed me to not only move the bars up and back but also move only the ends of the bars to aline more with my hands as they hit the grips. These pins are only "line-up" pins and one was all that would be needed (in my opinion) as there is a large bolt that really holds the bars on. I have had then like this for over two years and over 10,000 miles with no problems. The first couple of months, I checked that they were still tight and found no problem.
My question is -- I know several of you did this adjustment and I was wondering if anyone has had any type of problem with the modification, as some worried. Before my wrists would begin hurting after a couple of hours. Now I am fine for the whole day. Please let me knnow if you have done this and if you had any issues. Thank You

Haddn't thought of this. I think I might give it a try. Thanks!

I'm just worried that I'll lose the pins and not be able to pass them along if I ever sell the bike.

Why not throw them away and hand the new owner a quarter to buy new ones if he/she wants?

I worked for 20 minutes trying to get one pin out using a vise grips. It slid out about 1/16th and that was it. The vise grips just didn't have the bite.So out came the Dremel tool with a cutting disc. Those outisde pins cut like butter.

It also took an abrasion disc on the Dremel to sand off the remaining pin stub flush with the base. Just tape off the handlebar base to prevent scaring.

My bars are now mounted all the way back towards the rider with the grips pushed all the way forward in affect flatting the angle.

I've got happy hands now. No palm or wrist pain anymore.

Probably invested one hour in all and it is easier with a helper. Even a wife would do in a pinch.

If it pulled out 1/16th of an inch, could you not have punched it back in after cutting to eliminate the stub protruding?

 

[bob-st]

I pulled one pin (on each side) and rotated the bars forward. I was able to complete my first ss1000 without any noticeable wrist pain. :yahoo:

 

[Fingerflicker]

I just adjusted the bars today all the way toward me for now, if that doesn't do it then I will remove the outside pins. Also did the throttle return spring farkle. Looking forward to seeing if it relieves the numbing effect. Thanks to all for the pictures and comments, made the job so much quicker!

 

[RaYzerman19]

Also if you add tennis racquet or baseball bat grip tape to your grips to make them larger diameter (for those of us with factory heated grips), you'll find your fingers don't have to grip as tight and your wrists relax. NOJ also makes a foam grip that velcros on over your grips, similar to Grip Puppies only I suspect more robust material.

As far as rotating bars forward, usually, wrist and shoulder pain are reduced by rotating them back and in which some risers do..... just a thought.