Changing a throttle cable on an 0

[Larry33319]

I have a kink in my throttle cable where the plastic cable comes out of the 90 degree bend at the throttle bodies. Any tricks on how to change it. Looks like a somewhat pain in the arse.

 

[Larry33319]

So, no one has any tricks on how to flat rate the cable change? I guess it is pretty straight forward. Just do it I guess.

 

[rfulcher]

I used a an 18 inch forcept and a butter knife to install the lower cable. These 2 tools allowed me to manipulate the cable from a distance. I also worked on it in bright sunlight when the sun was overhead. This gave me enough light to easily see what I was doing.

 

[wfooshee]

The only time I removed the throttle cable, I was actually removing the throttle bodies to get at the starter. The cables are EZ-Peasey when the throttle bodies are off!

Personally I don't see how you can get to the one side with the throttles still on the engine.

 

[Larry33319]

That wàs the info I was looking for . So the throttle bodies will be removed. Thanks for saving me a ton of frustration.

 

[wfooshee]

And to further complicate life, the throttle bodies have a coolant passage (for the cold-engine fast-idle system) you will have to open up to get them all the way off. You might be able to just twist tem this way or that far enough to reach that throttle cable without actually removing the coolant hoses, but I don't think so.

 

[HaulinAshe]

If you are going to replace the throttle cable(s), take the time to clean the throttle bodies while you have them out. An old toothbrush and can of aerosol Throttle Body Cleaner will do nicely. It's time well spent.

 

[rfulcher]

I did not have to remove the throttle bodies to replace the lower cable when it accidently removed itself.

Reminder to self; do not twist and push on the throttle cable when they are not connected to the throttle barrel.

 

[wfooshee]

Be prepared for the reinstallation of the throttle bodies. Have a scrap of wood handy, as you'll have to tap the throttle bodies back into the rubber sleeves on the engine. Hammering directly on the metal would be frowned upon. It will take some heavier hitting than you think you want to do . . . .

And don't forget to reconnect the coolant lines.

When removing the coolant lines, I've just pulled them up and restrained them so they don't drain, and I've never had to add coolant back. You lose a little splash, but not any serious quantity.

 

[RadioHowie]

Be prepared for the reinstallation of the throttle bodies. Have a scrap of wood 3 foot section of 2x4 and 5 pound sledge hammer handy, as you'll have to tap fram the hell outta the throttle bodies back into the rubber sleeves on the engine. Hammering directly on the metal would be frowned upon. It will take some heavier hitting than you think you want to do . . . .

....from the "Speaking From Experience" department. :glare:

 

[ionbeam]

Be prepared for the reinstallation of the throttle bodies. Have a scrap of wood 3 foot section of 2x4 and 5 pound sledge hammer handy, as you'll have to tap fram the hell outta the throttle bodies back into the rubber sleeves on the engine. Hammering directly on the metal would be frowned upon. It will take some heavier hitting than you think you want to do . . . .

...from the "Speaking From Experience" department. :glare:

Get the rubber sleeves warm, not HOT but good 'n warm and spray them with silicon spray first. It makes it much easier to get the throttle bodies to slip in as you use your 2x4 and the biggest rubber mallet you have. If you want to take the gloves off and get serious, break out the dead-blow hammer.

On my Honda V-4, in addition to the 2x4, dead-blow hammer and the 6' iron pry bar (for stone work) I found a creative way to get good assist with a ratchet strap.

 

[RadioHowie]

Be prepared for the reinstallation of the throttle bodies. Have a scrap of wood 3 foot section of 2x4 and 5 pound sledge hammer handy, as you'll have to tap fram the hell outta the throttle bodies back into the rubber sleeves on the engine. Hammering directly on the metal would be frowned upon. It will take some heavier hitting than you think you want to do . . . .

...from the "Speaking From Experience" department. :glare:

Get the rubber sleeves warm, not HOT but good 'n warm and spray them with silicon spray first. It makes it much easier to get the throttle bodies to slip in as you use your 2x4 and the biggest rubber mallet you have. If you want to take the gloves off and get serious, break out the dead-blow hammer.

On my Honda V-4, in addition to the 2x4, dead-blow hammer and the 6' iron pry bar (for stone work) I found a creative way to get good assist with a ratchet strap.

There ya go, folks....if I'beam said it, it's GOSPEL!!

I might add, to anyone who ever plans on removing their throttle bodies, get yourself a good T-handled allen wrench set, 'cause if you use a standard "L" allen, you'll wear your fingers bloody loosening and tightening the manifold clamps.

I found that in the long run, for easier re-installation, it was much easier to remove the throttle bodies WITH the rubber spigots from the head than to pull the throttle bodies from the rubber spigots.

 

[HaulinAshe]

I might add, to anyone who ever plans on removing their throttle bodies, get yourself a good T-handled allen wrench set, 'cause if you use a standard "L" allen, you'll wear your fingers bloody loosening and tightening the manifold clamps.

I found that in the long run, for easier re-installation, it was much easier to remove the throttle bodies WITH the rubber spigots from the head than to pull the throttle bodies from the rubber spigots.

+1

T-Handle allen set is a must-have tool.

Remove the throttle bodies and manifold boots together, replace them the same way. No rubber hammer or 2x4 pieces required. Re-attaching the coolant hoses is a bit challenging, but still much better than beating and banging against the boots.

 

[fjr vfr]

It is a pain to replace the throttle cables. I recently replaced the engine in my bike. I installed the throttle bodies before bolting in the engine. I was able to connect up the cables with them in place. It required some cursing and frustration, but I did it. I wouldn't pull the throttle bodies myself. That would make it easier for the cables, but require it's own set of "french" language words. Like someone mentioned earlier, I did the work in bright sunlight so I could see very well. Obviously it's the bottom cable which is the hard one. Good luck however you do it.

 

[RickNH]

I just had the same problem myself. The bottom throttle cable came loose while I was changing the throttle tube to a G2. I used two wires used for insulation support - 1 bent at the end (about 1/4 inch 90 degree) and one straight. I put a slight kink at the end of the cable so that it would sit slightly bent at the end.. i positioned the barrel into the hole at the bottom and with the 90 degree bent-end on pushed down on the cable until it fell into the slot. Man I hope that was clear. I had to take the gas tank off and move it backwards. sunshine would have helped and eyes a few years younger too.