Anybody got a procedure for replacing the center fork bushing on later model FJR's?? My 2008 Yamaha factory manual does not list a special tool or a procedure for installing the new center bushing. Couldn't find any reference to how to install the center bushing in any of the how to guides on this site. It looks like Yamaha didn't use a center bushing on the Gen 1 FJR's as that service manual made ne reference to removing this bushing.
changing center fork bushing in 2008 FJR
- Thread starter jstewart
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Bustanut joker
Well-known member
Can't get the damn link to post... Google search FJR Forum fork bushings.
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ahchiu
FJR Commander
Silent
Who said FJR's don't do dirt?
Just had mine replace in the 07. Not sure if it was the middle or not, but they had to be pressed out.
08FJR4ME
-WYNPRO-
Just don't follow the GIXXER method.
Sorry Jason,
Dave
Sorry Jason,
Dave
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bluesdog
Well-known member
Lee at Traxxion recommended replacing all bushings prior to installing the AK cartridges. They were removed at the local yamashop, 'cause I was unable to loosen that damn loctited damper rod assembly bolt, and was too lazy to fabricate a special tool for the job.
Procedure for inner tube/bushing removal according to FSM:
a. hold the front fork leg assembly horizontally
b. securely clamp the brake caliper bracket vise with soft jaws
c. separate the inner tube from the outer tube by pulling the inner tube forcefully but carefully
If this is done carefully, according to the FSM the bushings will not be damaged during dis-assembly.
Procedure for inner tube/bushing removal according to FSM:
a. hold the front fork leg assembly horizontally
b. securely clamp the brake caliper bracket vise with soft jaws
c. separate the inner tube from the outer tube by pulling the inner tube forcefully but carefully
If this is done carefully, according to the FSM the bushings will not be damaged during dis-assembly.
Chuck35
Well-known member
I have seen it recommended to omit the center bushing. I haven't decided what I'll do when I get into mine.
Auburn
Well-known member
Basically you are using the inner fork tube as a slide hammer and the lower bushing is used to pull the middle bushing out. It is easier if you use some heat in the area that the middle bushing is to expand the outer fork tube slightly then it comes out with very little force.
If you don't have the special tool or you have not made one so you can tighten the lower in the bottom of the fork tube, then I would not recommend doing the work since you have to have it to reassemble the fork. The torque is on 25 ft-lbs on the bolt (IIRC).
Take your time and be methodical about how you do the work and you won't have any problems.
bluesdog
Well-known member
Traxxion supplied a tool to hold the new AK-20 cartridge in place during re-assembly, however, it wasn't needed in my case, as I had scrupulously cleaned everything, and the bolt went to proper torque with no issues. I didn't use loctite.
The OEM cartridges have loctite on the bolt, and one needs a special tool, (basically a deep socket, welded to a piece of pipe to fit over the cartridge), in order to keep the whole thing from just spinning. When re-assembling the thing, if you have cleaned ALL the fluid out of the tube, the end of the cartridge will stay in place during tightening without needing to be held by a tool. Do not over-torque!
I'll second the don't overtorque! I snapped my cartridge by doing just that. I didn't use a tool, just doubled up two nuts on the damper rod and held with combo wrench while torquing cartridge bolt. I was shocked at how easily it snapped. I didn't make the same mistake again. I've rebuilt two sets now.
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