Changing Fork Oil - Question

[JimLor]

I'm going to change my fork oil, install Race Tech Fork Springs and service the steering head. I've read the service manual on taking the forks apart. The manual goes into much greater detail than the article and I "assume" it's akin to field stripping (Tech article) vs detail stripping (Svc manual) - if I do the FJR Tech service, will I need any new seals, etc? Would it be wise to have some on hand JIC?

I'm good to go on the steering head service.

Thanks.

And for RadioHowie - I love my bike (a beatuiful Galaxy Blue 05 named Maxine) and I don't have any complaints :yahoo:

 

[3dogs]

When I changed my fork oil, springs and added the Race Tech compression/rebound valving I re-used my old seals with no problems. Call me a cheap ******* if you like. It's probably better to install new seals if you have them but not entirely necessary. It's also a good idea to polish your fork tubes giving the old/new seals something soomth to slide up/down against. Good luck.

 

[Warchild]

I'm going to change my fork oil, install Race Tech Fork Springs and service the steering head. I've read the service manual on taking the forks apart. The manual goes into much greater detail than the article and I "assume" it's akin to field stripping (Tech article) vs detail stripping (Svc manual) - if I do the FJR Tech service, will I need any new seals, etc? Would it be wise to have some on hand JIC?I'm good to go on the steering head service.

ASSuming they are leak-free now, there should be NO reason to even think about the seals if you're just changing springs and fluids. You're doing little more than removing the fork cap... you're not dissassembling the component down to the seals.

To do the steering head bearings properly, you will need the correct, Yamaha-specific spanner for the job, either from Yamaha or the one from BikeJohnny found here.

 

[JimLor]

Thanks for the quick replies. Check on the spanner, I'm gonna try the couple of dealers around here. Will turn this into a busy day changing fork oil/springs//steering head maint//new horns//clean calipers and something else I forgot!

Thanks again.

Jim

 

[FJRandy]

Jim, we just did the springs/oil change on three FJR's at my place last Saturday.

All I can say is MAKE SURE you tighten the cap to the rod it screws into by torquing that nut underneath. One of the guys' instructions said to tighten, then back off 20 degrees. UH UH! I argued with my friend for 45 mins on this, finally showing him the shop manual specs. The rod will loosen and fall into the forks, then you'll have a fun ride!

Here's a pic from Sat. It was 105 INSIDE the garage.

 

[twowheelnut]

Um, your jack-pumping technique is all wrong for these Kayaba forks. Here's how a real pro, um, jacks...

:lameasswinkysmiley:

 

[JimLor]

Thanks Randy. I did find that statement about tightening and then backing off to be a bit odd. Like you, I read both the tech article and the service manual. Definately don't want TFOM (Things Falling Off Motorcycles) on my trips. Thanks for the post!

Jim

 

[Geezer]

I think the note about backing the nut off is to allow you to move the nut underneath it up tight against it. That way the top is not jammed tight against the end of the rod, it is jammed against the jam nut below it.

 

[yamaholic]

That's not what the article says. I know because I wrote it.

Quote from the FJR tech article:

18.) Reinstall spring (new spring if so purchased) then the washer. Put on long spacer, nut, screw on fork cap by hand until it bottoms (be sure the nut is not interfering) Unscrew 10-20degrees and tighten nut down.

You DO tighten the nut down. Just not when the fork cap is ALL THE WAY DOWN, fully threaded in. Stripping/overtightening the fork cap is just too darn easy if you don't slightly unset it from the bottom of the thread. Ideally you want to leave a minimal gap here; exactly as it comes off in the first place.

However, I can see confusion here. Damn, it's not easy to write tech articles as they can be interpreted in different ways sometimes. Perhaps if the article said "Unscrew the fork cap 10-20 degress and tighten the nut down"..maybe make a bit more sense?

BTW Randy..love your license plate. Can you post that pic at STN with our famous NJ and OH plates?

 

[tyronewildman]

That's not what the article says. I know because I wrote it.<SNIP>

However, I can see confusion here. Damn, it's not easy to write tech articles as they can be interpreted in different ways sometimes. Perhaps if the article said "Unscrew the fork cap 10-20 degress and tighten the nut down"..maybe make a bit more sense?

Yamaholic, I reread the FJRTECH article & I see what you are saying. Why don't you take the next step & ask Warchild to to ammend the article to read what you posted above. It's hard to write tech pieces where they can't be misunderstood. Thanks for going to the trouble of writing the article.

Later,,,, De

 

[benneyb]

Jim, we just did the springs/oil change on three FJR's at my place last Saturday.All I can say is MAKE SURE you tighten the cap to the rod it screws into by torquing that nut underneath. One of the guys' instructions said to tighten, then back off 20 degrees. UH UH! I argued with my friend for 45 mins on this, finally showing him the shop manual specs. The rod will loosen and fall into the forks, then you'll have a fun ride!

Here's a pic from Sat. It was 105 INSIDE the garage.

Randy,

Sorry I wasn't paying more attention here - I would have come up from Fair Haven and joined the Sweat Party.

BTW - who are the other NJ FJR guys??

 

[FJRandy]

Randy,

Sorry I wasn't paying more attention here - I would have come up from Fair Haven and joined the Sweat Party.

BTW - who are the other NJ FJR guys??

Actually, they're both from NY. Benny (yes, like you) from NYC, and Bob J (nesbocaj from ST.N) from upstate.

You can come on up any time you like if you need to do work on it. Just let me know.

Randy

 

[FJRandy]

Quote>

"BTW Randy..love your license plate. Can you post that pic at STN with our famous NJ and OH plates?"

You mean this one??