Changing Rear Brake Pads/ Brake Reservoir Location

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From the brake pad replacement instructions in the service manual:
"Note: Always install new brake pads, brake pad shims, and a brake pad spring as a set."

It appears you reused the old shims and springs.
I've changed my front brake pads twice and rear pads once so far and reused the old shims and spring every time with no problem. I can understand the springs getting weak with age and heat cycles, but the shims don't seem to wear. I'll probably replace the springs and the little retainer clips next time I do the front ones.

 
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Clean up the shims, springs & retaining pins with brake cleaner & they will be fine. It's not like the springs are applying a lot of tension anyway.

Put a smear of copper grease on the back of the shims that comes into contact with the piston, & on the threads of the caliper bolts - it helps to prevent bi-metallic corrosion & makes their removal much easier next time.

I do this on mine in sunny Australia, & we don't have to worry about ice & snow etc like you unfortunate northern hemisphere folk. :yahoo:

 
I had to take a 8mm wrench and back off the bleeding screw & then took a 2 1/2 inch C-Clamp and compressed the caliper housing with 1/2 inch wide, about 3 inches long, and about 1/8 inch thick flat on the piston side until the piston was almost flush with the rubber boot.
Is there a reason not to stick a strong screwdriver between the old pads while they are still in the caliper and push the pistons back. Then install new brake pads.

 
I had to take a 8mm wrench and back off the bleeding screw & then took a 2 1/2 inch C-Clamp and compressed the caliper housing with 1/2 inch wide, about 3 inches long, and about 1/8 inch thick flat on the piston side until the piston was almost flush with the rubber boot.
Is there a reason not to stick a strong screwdriver between the old pads while they are still in the caliper and push the pistons back. Then install new brake pads.
A screwdriver works with old pads, with new ones, or ones that are not being replaced, I use a wedge of wood so I don't damage the pad.

For bigger calipers, like on my cars and trucks, I use the C-clamp method.

 
You should also clean any accumulated crud on the pistons before you push them back in, or the dust seals could be damaged. I use a toothbrush and brake cleaner.

 
Thanks for the thread. First time switching out the rear pads. Outside pad wear 50% more then the inside pad. Caught this just in time. 79,384 miles. Seems that once the pads reach a certain depth, say 40% remaining, the wear accelerates.

FJR%2520Rear%2520Brake%2520Pads%25202.JPG


Very easy replacement process with the help found here. :clapping:

Keep Going!

 
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