check engine light

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crf450r

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My check engine light has come on a few times. It first happened when the bike was wet from the rain but it's happened a couple times when it's been dry. The light comes on immediately after startup and goes out after about 5-10 seconds. While the light is on there is a buzzing noise from near the top of the engine -- sounds kind of like an electric fuel pump. The sound goes away as soon as the light goes out. Anyone else had this problem? Is there a computer that stores error codes like ODBII for cars? :blink:

 
Dare I......I could care less if he's fishing.

The fuel pump does not buzz.

Try EZBoard.

 
Top of motor has FP regulator, TPS, MAP sensor, AIR solenoid, none of which are really buzzers, 'cept maybe the solenoid. Check diag screen for codes. A sick pump wouldn't set a light that I know of, just a non-running engine.

 
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It's probably the Air solenoid -- it does sound like a solenoid clicking. How do I get the diagnostics screen? That's not covered in the owner's manual and I don't have the service manual.

Is there some proper way to pose a question so I'm not accused of "trolling"? I thought that's what this forum was for? Don't want to violate forum etiquette in my future posts. :huh:

 
crf450r

Maybe I too will be shot down by others, but some things just have to be said

As another member I must say I was surprised at the comments you received. Some new members are embraced and others are accused - suppose it comes down to the individual members.

Can understand how you might want to walk away for good, but there are some great guys around here - technically and personality wise and I've sure learnt a lot and had a good laugh.

Anyway, welcome from me from across the pond ;)

Paul

01 fjr

uk

 
It's probably the Air solenoid -- it does sound like a solenoid clicking.  How do I get the diagnostics screen?  That's not covered in the owner's manual and I don't have the service manual.
Is there some proper way to pose a question so I'm not accused of "trolling"?  I thought that's what this forum was for?  Don't want to violate forum etiquette in my future posts. :huh:
You want to go to this website and click on the 4th link down. It will take some time to download over dial-up but it will resolve the manual issue and will arm you with the diagnostic tools you need.

Now, to access Diag mode: First, turn the ignition key off. Then press and hold both the dash buttons (reset and select) while you turn the key on. Continue to hold both buttons for approximately 8 seconds until the clock display reads "dIAG". Release the buttons. If you have installed the Barbarian jumper you have the ability to press a button to switch the display to CO mode. Don't do that, you want dIAG in this case. Press both buttons together for approximately 2 seconds until the screen changes again. Now the select and reset buttons will act like up/down cursor keys. You can scroll through the diagnostics until the clock area reads 62. The trip meter area below will display the number of stored fault codes. DO NOT TOUCH THE KILL SWITCH while in diagnostic code 62 or you will erase the stored fault codes.

Hit the reset button one more time so the clock displays diagnostic code 61. The trip meter area will now display the stored fault codes, one at a time cycling through them one every 2 seconds or so. With that number and the service manual, you may be able to figure out what is going on.

I have no idea what the others where on about. Looked like a legitimate question to me.

 
I have no idea what the others where on about. Looked like a legitimate question to me.
Only because in the past, a few first time posts were made like this on this forum, and turned out to be a dipshit troll.

If your not a troll, fuggedaboutit.

 
Hi I'm back! No, I didn't get scared away -- my feelings aren't hurt that easily. Just been a bit busy and my problem has been so infrequent and unpredictable that I haven't taken any time to do any serious diagnosis yet.

But tonight I have a new symptom that may help narrow down the problem. At first this check engine light only seemed to occur right after I started the bike when cold. Today on the way home from work it happened twice, once at the restart after a fuel stop, and the second time at the restart after picking up some take-out Chinese food. So in both cases the engine was pretty much up to normal operating temperature. Since it was night time I noticed the new symptom: When the check engine light comes on (for 2-5 seconds) the headlights went off. The headlights came back on immediately after the check engine light went out. This time the noise sounded more like a cooling fan, much quieter than the radiator fan -- when cold it sounds more like a rapidly clicking solenoid switch.

Does that help anyone identify my potential problem?

BTW. Although I can't help but peek at all the "What kind of oil" threads I think a "We Don't Talk About Oil In Here" forum should be created. :D

 
Hi I'm back!  No, I didn't get scared away -- my feelings aren't hurt that easily.  Just been a bit busy and my problem has been so infrequent and unpredictable that I haven't taken any time to do any serious diagnosis yet.
But tonight I have a new symptom that may help narrow down the problem.  At first this check engine light only seemed to occur right after I started the bike when cold.  Today on the way home from work it happened twice, once at the restart after a fuel stop, and the second time at the restart after picking up some take-out Chinese food.  So in both cases the engine was pretty much up to normal operating temperature.  Since it was night time I noticed the new symptom:  When the check engine light comes on (for 2-5 seconds) the headlights went off.  The headlights came back on immediately after the check engine light went out.  This time the noise sounded more like a cooling fan, much quieter than the radiator fan -- when cold it sounds more like a rapidly clicking solenoid switch.

Does that help anyone identify my potential problem?

BTW.  Although I can't help but peek at all the "What kind of oil" threads I think a "We Don't Talk About Oil In Here" forum should be created.  :D
No idea on your Check Engine Light but I think the oil thread should be "Oil! ... We don't need no stinkin' oil!" :D

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi I'm back! No, I didn't get scared away -- my feelings aren't hurt that easily. Just been a bit busy and my problem has been so infrequent and unpredictable that I haven't taken any time to do any serious diagnosis yet.
But tonight I have a new symptom that may help narrow down the problem. At first this check engine light only seemed to occur right after I started the bike when cold. Today on the way home from work it happened twice, once at the restart after a fuel stop, and the second time at the restart after picking up some take-out Chinese food. So in both cases the engine was pretty much up to normal operating temperature. Since it was night time I noticed the new symptom: When the check engine light comes on (for 2-5 seconds) the headlights went off. The headlights came back on immediately after the check engine light went out. This time the noise sounded more like a cooling fan, much quieter than the radiator fan -- when cold it sounds more like a rapidly clicking solenoid switch.

Does that help anyone identify my potential problem?

BTW. Although I can't help but peek at all the "What kind of oil" threads I think a "We Don't Talk About Oil In Here" forum should be created. :D
Did you access the diag mode and check the stored codes? That would be a very good clue to help diagnose the problem. But based on your somewhat sketchy information so far, here are my thoughts:

Headlight power is controlled through Headlight Relay #1 by the ECU via the Yellow/blue wire. When the ECU detects that the engine is running, it grounds that wire which energises the relay and sends power to Headlight Relay #2 (the hi/low relay). Power to the relay (to both the common and the coil) is fed directly from the headlight fuse.

So, for the headlight to remain off, one of two things is probably happening. Either the ECU is not energising the headlight relay because of whatever is causing the fault code or there is insufficient voltage available to fully energise the relay coil. Either could potentially trigger a fault code like #42 ["The ECU is unable to monitor the battery voltage (an open circuit in the line to the ECU)]." I think it highly unlikely that the battery voltage is truly that low or you would not have enough power to turn the starter motor, but it is entirely possible that there is a corroded connection somewhere that is dropping the voltage that the ECU detects.

Battery voltage is lower immediately following a start-up because of the drain that the starter motor puts on the battery. As the battery recovers and the charging system kicks in, the voltage rises. It is usually most dramatic following a cold start, which usually draws more power to crank the engine over. The progression to symptoms after a warm start could mean that the battery is aging, or it could mean that the corrosion is getting worse.

I would suggest monitoring Diagnostic number 43 which shows the battery voltage as detected by the ECU and compare it to a direct reading from the battery using an accurate voltmeter.

Just my 2¢.

 
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