Checking the Relay Arm Bearings

[Leghorn]

When I first installed my Wilbers shock, I carefully relubed each of the pivot points on the relay arm except the top one, which could not be accessed without removing the centerstand. I noted, however, that the top pivot point seemd to have more play in it than the other pivot points and made a mental note to check it out at a later date. Now my shock assembly is with Klaus for fitment of a stronger spring and, while I await its return, I thought that this would be a good time to remove the centerstand and check out the top pivot point on the relay arm. Before undertaking the project, however, I need to know:

1) How do you know when there is too much play or wear in this bearing assembly, and

2) How do you remove and reinstall the bearings -- are there special tools or techniques?

I've never done this sort of repair; can a novice get it done without the hands-on services of an expert?

Thanks in advance.

 

[radman]

Any play is bad-it's magnified due to the design of the relay arm which translates small movements into large. The bearings are easily replaced-a vise and some deep well sockets work effectively as a press, no different than replacing a pressed in U-joint. Any corrosion is evidence of a problem-make sure the seals are replaced as well, they're cheap and so easy to pop in.

 

[Leghorn]

Thanks, Radman. I'm going to order the bearings, seals and collars for the relay arm and give it a try.

 

[GPRIDER]

Just an FYI. I checked that bearing at about 600 miles on my 04 and it was loose then. I didn't do anything to it because I had no way to support the bike while removing the centerstand. I will probably have to do something with it soon. Just wondering though, shouldn't that be a warranty item?

GP

 

[radman]

Just an FYI. I checked that bearing at about 600 miles on my 04 and it was loose then. I didn't do anything to it because I had no way to support the bike while removing the centerstand. I will probably have to do something with it soon. Just wondering though, shouldn't that be a warranty item?
GP

Yes, if it's outside Yami specs. Their def of "loose" and yours may differ wildly. But it's worth a shot. Me, I just got them and slammed 'em home. I save the warranty for the big tic...stuff.

 

[Leghorn]

I replaced the upper and lower pivot point bearings and sleeves on the relay arm this weekend. In retrospect, I'm not sure that it was worth all the effort. As mentioned above, there was noticeable side-to-side play in the upper pivot point -- the one that cannot be accessed without removing the centerstand. With the new bearing, there is still some play, although there may be less play than with the original bearing. It will be interesting to compare stiction numbers to see whether the suspension is freer than before. I'll follow up on that in another post.

First I used 3/4" water pipe to build a pipe frame like that set forth at FJRTech. Suspending the rear with the front wheel chocked, I set about removing the centerstand. I tried to "spring" the exhaust headers enough to remove all of the bolts, but gave up on that effort for fear of breaking or bending something, including myself.

I decided to lower the exhaust manifold, which necessitated unbolting the radiator and fan to access the manifold bolts. It was a tight squeeze but I did not have to remove the radiator. The centerstand and the relay arm came off easily after that. Using socket fittings and a vise (per Radman's suggestion) I was able to remove the upper and lower bearings.

I didn't replace the two center bearings on the relay arm for a couple of reasons: I could detect no wear/play and I didn't feel that I had the appropriate tools and knowhow. These bearings apparently must be pulled out. Given the force that it took to push the upper and lower bearings out of their respective homes, I chose leave the center bearings alone.

For what it was worth, I placed the new bearings into a ziploc baggie and left them in the freezer overnight. Pressing the bearings back into the relay arm was uneventful although, even with lots of grease, it still took quite a bit of pressure with the vice to get it done.

For an amateur like me, this was an educational experience. I was relieved to get everything back together.

 

[ionbeam]

For an amateur like me, this was an educational experience. I was relieved to get everything back together

Hope you enjoyed saying 'For an amateur like me', it won't work again <_< Sounds like your cherry has been popped. Next thing you know you will be asking for the P/N for the steering head bearings and wanting to know where to get a valve shim kit :lol: :lol: :lol:

BTW, congratulations, sounds to me like you had quite a project. Let's see, built a stand, actually had a vice and all the tools, saw a problem and didn't just let it go, boldly went where your fingers had never gone before Yup, sounds like a veteran to me B)

Alan

 

[radman]

Side to side play (same axis as the bolt) is not a wear issue, nor is it a problem. The arms butt up to the inner sleeve, and this determines the side clearance. If this is why you replaced the bearings, you replaced them needlessly. What is a problem is sleeve to roller wear, resulting in a sloppy, loose fit. Rust, or just lack of lube, can cause problems here. Note that the two end bearings in the relay arm use a unique plastic like permanent lube. It appears to be a roller retainer, but isn't, though that may be a side function. If the shaft rolls nicely in the bearing, and cannot be rocked when inserted, clean, add a little Mobil 1 Red and you should be good to go. Grease well the seals and the sides where the arms contact so as to prevent moisture intrusion. Oh well, even if not needed, they're cheap, and now serviced, so good job, you've quite a while before you have to worry about them again.

 

[Leghorn]

That plastic-like lube looked unique and I didn't know whether to leave it as it was or remove it and just use my own synthetic grease. I compromised and added my own grease to what was already there. (This after experimenting with the old bearing, which had the same stuff -- probed away with a toothpick and pretty soon the needles started to fall out. )

Probably a needless exercise. But I did turn the centerstand bolts around so that future removal of the centerstand doesn't implicate the header.