Chicken Strip Question
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SickDog
Well-known member
Bounce beat me to the punch...
On my cruiser and with the cruiser crowd, scraping pegs was a sign of machismo - of being a "real rider." When I first started riding my FJR, after a brief learning curve, I also scraped the pegs a few times. Now, however, I challenge myself to aggressively ride curves without scraping pegs. As Bounce so aptly points out, by shifting one's body (i.e., ride the curve by leading with your chin, then shoulders, then hips and lastly a bit of knee), one can negotiate a curve at high speed without leaning the bike over as far compared to the typical counter-steering technique of look-press-roll. The advantage to this technique of shifting one's body weight is that by not leaning the bike as far - relatively speaking - one does not use up all the "traction points" on the tires thereby leaving more "traction points" for acceleration; moreover, should road conditions or other hazard appear on the road, it is much easier to set the bike upright for a quick stop.
To illustrate the body lean technique, check out the pro racers. It's the same technique for the road but less severe, i.e., without the knee dragging position that is certain to grap the attention of your local LEO.
On my cruiser and with the cruiser crowd, scraping pegs was a sign of machismo - of being a "real rider." When I first started riding my FJR, after a brief learning curve, I also scraped the pegs a few times. Now, however, I challenge myself to aggressively ride curves without scraping pegs. As Bounce so aptly points out, by shifting one's body (i.e., ride the curve by leading with your chin, then shoulders, then hips and lastly a bit of knee), one can negotiate a curve at high speed without leaning the bike over as far compared to the typical counter-steering technique of look-press-roll. The advantage to this technique of shifting one's body weight is that by not leaning the bike as far - relatively speaking - one does not use up all the "traction points" on the tires thereby leaving more "traction points" for acceleration; moreover, should road conditions or other hazard appear on the road, it is much easier to set the bike upright for a quick stop.
To illustrate the body lean technique, check out the pro racers. It's the same technique for the road but less severe, i.e., without the knee dragging position that is certain to grap the attention of your local LEO.
C&C
Well-known member
Great explanation, SickDog. I don't challenge the road, as some of you guys do, but I do enjoy knowing about some of the theories. My hats are off to the racers each time I watch them leaning and drifting around the racecourse, truly marvelous stuff.
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JimLor
Well-known member
Lee Parks book Total Control describes the technique to a T. A very informative and well written book that goes into detail on most aspects of riding. Since I took the MSF basic course, I've read Proficient Motorcycling - Twist of the Wrist II - and Total Control and learned from each of them. You don't have to read them with the intent of driving like a maniac, they are a great addition to, or "next step" after taking the MSF basic course. The books go into the details of why you don't let off the brake if you lock up the back wheel and why you roll on the throttle in a turn, etc.
Sport rider did a comparison a month or so ago with the FJR, ST1300 and ZZR1200
Their suspension recommendations are below.
I just dialed them into my 2 week old bike last Friday and it made a big difference.
Front Spring preload = 2 lines showing
Rebound dampning = 4 clicks from full stiff
Compression Dampning = 7 clicks from full stiff
Rear Spring preload = Hard position
Rebound dampning = 3 clicks out from full stiff
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radman
R.I.P. Our Motorcycling Friend
I did the same as Diesel, also with impressive results. Like damn near being tossed off the bike and re-learning dirt style technique :lol: It makes for a pretty stiff ride, not reccomended for anything other than ultra smooth roads. I find that settings a little tighter than the Manual recomended standard work best for the variety of roads I encounter-can always tighten them up should the mood and appropriate roads come along.
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Geezer
Parsimonious Curmudgeon
I have put almost 4000 miles on mine to date. I started out with the factory suspension settings and the back shock set to soft. This was OK while I was breaking in the engine but didn't work well once I started pushing it a little. Now I keep the rear shock set to hard all of the time. I have not changed any of the other settings from what they were when I got the bike and I am happy with the way it rides on most surfaces. I mostly ride solo but even with a pillion the suspension seems pretty good as is.
At some point I will put on a fork brace and then I will probably try some other suspension settings.
At some point I will put on a fork brace and then I will probably try some other suspension settings.
Excellent stuff, thanks!Sport rider did a comparison a month or so ago with the FJR, ST1300 and ZZR1200
Their suspension recommendations are below.
I just dialed them into my 2 week old bike last Friday and it made a big difference.
Front Spring preload = 2 lines showing
Rebound dampning = 4 clicks from full stiff
Compression Dampning = 7 clicks from full stiff
Rear Spring preload = Hard position
Rebound dampning = 3 clicks out from full stiff
Woodstock
Well-known member
I found those settings a bit tight for my weight (160lb w/ gear) and normal riding. I moved the rebound to 6 clicks, and preload back to 2.5rings and it seems much better. YMMV.Excellent stuff, thanks!Sport rider did a comparison a month or so ago with the FJR, ST1300 and ZZR1200
Their suspension recommendations are below.
I just dialed them into my 2 week old bike last Friday and it made a big difference.
Front Spring preload = 2 lines showing
Rebound dampning = 4 clicks from full stiff
Compression Dampning = 7 clicks from full stiff
Rear Spring preload = Hard position
Rebound dampning = 3 clicks out from full stiff
Captain Obvious
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Interesting, because those are the exact settings that I use.Sport rider did a comparison a month or so ago with the FJR, ST1300 and ZZR1200
Their suspension recommendations are below.
I just dialed them into my 2 week old bike last Friday and it made a big difference.
Front Spring preload = 2 lines showing
Rebound dampning = 4 clicks from full stiff
Compression Dampning = 7 clicks from full stiff
Rear Spring preload = Hard position
Rebound dampning = 3 clicks out from full stiff
If you only ride in a 50% PE that would mean you will not go more than 50% of top speed? 75MPH? Any faster is too fast for you? 50% RPM? 50% braking? 50% of your tire tread?
I try to use 100% of my tire (when the conditions are right). There is enough traction in modern tire to hold well beyond the posted sugested corner speeds. As a general rule of thumb the FJR will easily handle twice the speed of any corner posted. You have to really TRY to get to the edge of the tire. It is possible and FUN!
I would also say that if you are near the edge of the tire you are at 85% of the bikes capabilities. And depending on the rider it may be at 110%!
I won't ride with some people. And I can not keep up with others. I pick my pace and sometimes the roads and conditions come together to have a chicken strip-less good time! )
John
"Life is Dangerous"
I try to use 100% of my tire (when the conditions are right). There is enough traction in modern tire to hold well beyond the posted sugested corner speeds. As a general rule of thumb the FJR will easily handle twice the speed of any corner posted. You have to really TRY to get to the edge of the tire. It is possible and FUN!
I would also say that if you are near the edge of the tire you are at 85% of the bikes capabilities. And depending on the rider it may be at 110%!
I won't ride with some people. And I can not keep up with others. I pick my pace and sometimes the roads and conditions come together to have a chicken strip-less good time!
)John
"Life is Dangerous"
+1, very well putIf you only ride in a 50% PE that would mean you will not go more than 50% of top speed? 75MPH? Any faster is too fast for you? 50% RPM? 50% braking? 50% of your tire tread?
I try to use 100% of my tire (when the conditions are right). There is enough traction in modern tire to hold well beyond the posted sugested corner speeds. As a general rule of thumb the FJR will easily handle twice the speed of any corner posted. You have to really TRY to get to the edge of the tire. It is possible and FUN!
I would also say that if you are near the edge of the tire you are at 85% of the bikes capabilities. And depending on the rider it may be at 110%!
I won't ride with some people. And I can not keep up with others. I pick my pace and sometimes the roads and conditions come together to have a chicken strip-less good time!
John
"Life is Dangerous"
I also have used the Sport Rider settings and I am very happy with them for the roads we have around here. If I was to take off on a superslab run (YUCK unless you gotta get somewhere quick), I would soften up a little but I like having less movement under me on our local roads (Cherohala, Deals Gap, the Blue Ridge Parkway, just your normal local roadways...LOL). Everyone come on down for the EOM! :clap:
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