Clicks On the Suspension Adjustments

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SoCalFJR1300

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Adjusted the suspension today with the owners manual.

I noticed my front and rear suspension has WAY more clicks than the manual says it should.

For instance on one of the adjustments on top of the front forks the manual says 21 clicks from end to end, I have 45!!!

Not a real big deal as I just went from one end to the other and then backed off from the hard end so many clicks.

Was just wondering those of you that have adjusted your suspension do you also have many more "clicks" than the manual says? Or is my 2008 FJR "special"??
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Sounds like the fork cap / damper rod relationship wasn't checked last time the forks were assembled. Depending on how "deep" you set the fork cap on the threaded damper rod, the number of clicks will vary.

When re-assembling, I completely back off the rebound adjustment, then bottom the fork cap on the damper rod and snug the jam nut tight.

My $.02 anyway...

--G

 
Sounds like the fork cap / damper rod relationship wasn't checked last time the forks were assembled. Depending on how "deep" you set the fork cap on the threaded damper rod, the number of clicks will vary.
When re-assembling, I completely back off the rebound adjustment, then bottom the fork cap on the damper rod and snug the jam nut tight.

My $.02 anyway...

--G
I'm pretty sure the forks haven't been touched since the buike was assembled.

I bought it a year ago with only 2,900 miles on it, it's a 2008.

Rear shock has a lot more clicks than the manual says also.

 
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Sounds like the fork cap / damper rod relationship wasn't checked last time the forks were assembled. Depending on how "deep" you set the fork cap on the threaded damper rod, the number of clicks will vary.
When re-assembling, I completely back off the rebound adjustment, then bottom the fork cap on the damper rod and snug the jam nut tight.

My $.02 anyway...

--G


Rear shock has a lot more clicks than the manual says also.
Yes,it has!
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But not sure if it works in those clicks...

 
I can only speak about the rear shock....it has around 50 clicks in total but if you read the manual and take it literally it says something to the effect that "the usable range of adjustment" is from 3 clicks in direction b to 21 clicks in direction b (starting from a full direction a rotation)....

anyhow I think its normal for you to have way more clicks :) but it will only have adjustment in the range of clicks specified in the book

 
Mine has more clicks than the manual... no worries. But when I do my adjustments, I keep in mind my total clicks. If your clicks are not exact from one side to the other, then you need to calculate ratios (ex. left side has 7 clicks out of 28 7/28=0.25, then on the right side if I have 32 clicks total, I will set it at 8 clicks to keep my ratio at 0.25). I may have to give it a click or two if the ride feel isn't right. You want those 2 sides to react the same, otherwise the bike will respond poorly and you are looking at a potential loss of control.

I wonder if the ES model is so much easier to setup ?

 
There are some great posts on here that are very detailed about this very topic. I went through the same dilemma and ended up with 13 on both of the front and 8 on the rear in the hard position. Adjusting those for your weight and bike will increase your riding enjoyment.

Check the old posts here and you won't be disappointed. You'll find lots of opinions, but good reading. Youtube has some good information as well using sportbikes. Good luck to you. My little .02.

 
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Ok , well on the rear shock for instance I went all the way to the hardest position then backed off 6 "clicks"

I weigh 250 so I want it towards the hard setting but not all the way to see how it feels.

I did the same kind of adjustment for the front end, all the way to the hardest then back off 6 clicks.

 
In my opinion, you've done it right........ with the dampers screwed all the way in, the tapered damping pins are seated, and backing out gives you distance from the seated position. No need to calculate ratios from side to side or with the total number of clicks available. It is a physical distance you want from seated position.

From where you are now, back off another two clicks and see if you're satisfied..... you're in the ballpark. The default (I think 12 clicks) is too little damping for me.

 
I weigh 190.... and have found the best settings to be the following if it can help

Rear

7 clicks and soft solo....4 clicks and hard with my pillion (from the A position)

Front

preload setting set always on 3 i.e. 1 line showing below the top of the preload adjuster and 1 line flush with the fork....if I feel like It I will tighten to 2.5 with a pillion...

compression damping (screw on bottom of fork) 8 clicks out from position A. rebound damping 4 clicks out from position A.

works for me :)

 
So, for the compression damping (the screw driver slot found towards the bottom of the fork legs), you make the same number of clicks even if each of the forks have a different number of total clicks ? I am trying to understand how can both offer the same effect if one has for example 7 clicks out of 25 and the other has 7 clicks out of 34 (numbers are just an example).

In my opinion, you've done it right........ with the dampers screwed all the way in, the tapered damping pins are seated, and backing out gives you distance from the seated position. No need to calculate ratios from side to side or with the total number of clicks available. It is a physical distance you want from seated position.From where you are now, back off another two clicks and see if you're satisfied..... you're in the ballpark. The default (I think 12 clicks) is too little damping for me.
 
So, for the compression damping (the screw driver slot found towards the bottom of the fork legs), you make the same number of clicks even if each of the forks have a different number of total clicks ? I am trying to understand how can both offer the same effect if one has for example 7 clicks out of 25 and the other has 7 clicks out of 34 (numbers are just an example).

In my opinion, you've done it right........ with the dampers screwed all the way in, the tapered damping pins are seated, and backing out gives you distance from the seated position. No need to calculate ratios from side to side or with the total number of clicks available. It is a physical distance you want from seated position.From where you are now, back off another two clicks and see if you're satisfied..... you're in the ballpark. The default (I think 12 clicks) is too little damping for me.
First of all, the compression damping screws will 99% of the time be the same. The variation in rebound comes when the forks have been apart and not put back together the same. But, when the screws are seated to zero damping opening I'd back them off equally to get the same valve opening from zero. Each click should be the same amount of screw movement regardless of how many total clicks you have (the thread pitches are the same). Once you have backed them out beyond say 15 clicks, you're not having very little if any effect.

To fix forks that have more than the stock 21 clicks, you'd have to remove the top fork caps, etc. like escapefjrtist described.

 
So, for the compression damping (the screw driver slot found towards the bottom of the fork legs), you make the same number of clicks even if each of the forks have a different number of total clicks ? I am trying to understand how can both offer the same effect if one has for example 7 clicks out of 25 and the other has 7 clicks out of 34 (numbers are just an example).

Each of the forks have the same amount of clicks, just way more than the manual says.

 
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