Clutch Adjustment

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fastfreddy

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Just bought a 08 FJR 1300 A. I've read quite a bit on this forum about clutch issues. My bike had 2700 miles on it when I bought it and it still has 20 months of warranty left. I've put about 400 miles on it. There's several things I've noticed about the clutch that seemed odd to me; one is that it seems that the bike lurches forward more than it should with the clutch fully disengaged when going from neutral into 1st. It also seems (compared to my Triumph Daytona 675) that it engages really early which of course takes a little getting used to again compared to my Triumph.

Other than the adjustment that can be made for the distance of the lever pull toward the grip, is there an adjustment for where the clutch starts to engage; I could not find anything in the manual or the forum.

Any help on this topic would be appreciated.

 
Just bought a 08 FJR 1300 A. I've read quite a bit on this forum about clutch issues. My bike had 2700 miles on it when I bought it and it still has 20 months of warranty left. I've put about 400 miles on it. There's several things I've noticed about the clutch that seemed odd to me; one is that it seems that the bike lurches forward more than it should with the clutch fully disengaged when going from neutral into 1st. It also seems (compared to my Triumph Daytona 675) that it engages really early which of course takes a little getting used to again compared to my Triumph.
Other than the adjustment that can be made for the distance of the lever pull toward the grip, is there an adjustment for where the clutch starts to engage; I could not find anything in the manual or the forum.

Any help on this topic would be appreciated.
Take it back to the dealer and bring the clutch to their attention, especially the part about it lurching forward when the clutch is fully disengaged, moving from neutral to first. That's a classic symptom of stuck clutch plates.

And +1 on Howie's "Nope" on the adjustment.

 
Also, the clutch master cylinder on the bars tends to mud up early for some reason and requires attention. Take the top off and take preferably a l.e.d. flashlight and look into the bottom of the cylinder for sludge/mud buildup. If present, drain or extract the fluid completely out and clean the inside. Flush and refill with fresh DOT4 and bleed. PM. <>< ;)

 
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Also, the clutch master cylinder on the bars tends to mud up early for some reason and requires attention. Take the top off and take preferably a l.e.d. flashlight and look into the bottom of the cylinder for sludge/mud buildup. If present, drain or extract the fluid completely out and clean the inside. Flush and refill with fresh DOT4 and bleed. PM. <>< ;)
+1

Just finished doing this. Just for giggles played with the adjustment knob to both extremes. Looking at it while doing this it does push the rod in farther when adjusted in the #1 position. I am not sure if it makes a difference but I will test ride later to see.

Even after 14K on the bike I will most likely be doing the clutch soak soon. Down shifting into 1'st seems to be getting slightly worse. I ocasionally have to double clutch to get it in. Mostly when stopped and idling.

Dave

 
Also, the clutch master cylinder on the bars tends to mud up early for some reason and requires attention. Take the top off and take preferably a l.e.d. flashlight and look into the bottom of the cylinder for sludge/mud buildup. If present, drain or extract the fluid completely out and clean the inside. Flush and refill with fresh DOT4 and bleed. PM. <>< ;)
+1

Just finished doing this. Just for giggles played with the adjustment knob to both extremes. Looking at it while doing this it does push the rod in farther when adjusted in the #1 position. I am not sure if it makes a difference but I will test ride later to see.

Even after 14K on the bike I will most likely be doing the clutch soak soon. Down shifting into 1'st seems to be getting slightly worse. I ocasionally have to double clutch to get it in. Mostly when stopped and idling.

Dave
I am thinking about this too with 33k miles on mine.

 
Also, the clutch master cylinder on the bars tends to mud up early for some reason and requires attention. Take the top off and take preferably a l.e.d. flashlight and look into the bottom of the cylinder for sludge/mud buildup. If present, drain or extract the fluid completely out and clean the inside. Flush and refill with fresh DOT4 and bleed. PM. <>< ;)
+1

Just finished doing this. Just for giggles played with the adjustment knob to both extremes. Looking at it while doing this it does push the rod in farther when adjusted in the #1 position. I am not sure if it makes a difference but I will test ride later to see.

Even after 14K on the bike I will most likely be doing the clutch soak soon. Down shifting into 1'st seems to be getting slightly worse. I ocasionally have to double clutch to get it in. Mostly when stopped and idling.

Dave
I am thinking about this too with 33k miles on mine.
I would suggest doing this at least once a year no matter what. Not sure what the book says. PM. <>< ;)

 
Well as far at the plunger going in further on the #1 position it didn't make any difference in shifting. Just thought I would post up to let peeps know.

Next Step: Check and soak clutch plates

 
Other than the adjustment that can be made for the distance of the lever pull toward the grip, is there an adjustment for where the clutch starts to engage; I could not find anything in the manual or the forum.
Actually, adjusting the clutch lever will give a percieved difference on when the clutch engages. If you have the clutch lever adjusted closest to the handlebar for a shorter reach, the clutch will engage "sooner", or closer to the handelbar. I have the Pazzo "shortys" on my 08', and had to play around to find the compromise between reach and shifting with two fingers without the clutch dragging. But this will not help your problem of the bike lurching forward when you put it into first gear, unless you don't have the clutch pulled in all the way.

 
Other than the adjustment that can be made for the distance of the lever pull toward the grip, is there an adjustment for where the clutch starts to engage;
Nope.
This isn't entirely true. I know at least one person who changed out to the Gen 1 master cylinder because he didn't like the "improved" clutch feel of the Gen 2. I could be full of shit, but check the part numbers for a difference.

 
Other than the adjustment that can be made for the distance of the lever pull toward the grip, is there an adjustment for where the clutch starts to engage;
Nope.
This isn't entirely true. I know at least one person who changed out to the Gen 1 master cylinder because he didn't like the "improved" clutch feel of the Gen 2. I could be full of shit, but check the part numbers for a difference.
Slappy, you are absolutely correct about changing out parts to change the "feel", but to me that's not an adjustment. Turning a screw is an adjustment. Changing out parts isn't.

That's like saying "I'm gonna adjust my horsepower by putting on a turbo".

 
Other than the adjustment that can be made for the distance of the lever pull toward the grip, is there an adjustment for where the clutch starts to engage;
Nope.
This isn't entirely true. I know at least one person who changed out to the Gen 1 master cylinder because he didn't like the "improved" clutch feel of the Gen 2. I could be full of shit, but check the part numbers for a difference.
Did it! Love it!

 
Hey, maybe Johnny80's could have another tech day and do a clutch soak? Or a beer soak? Or a wet teeshirt contest with the girls of Temecula!

 
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