Clutch Engagement Point

[RacinRay]

I'm looking to adjust the clutch engagement point on my 2016 ES. Unlike my '06 which begins to engage when the lever is about 1/2" from the grip, the '16 clutch doesn't begin to engage until the lever is almost completely released.

What I was thinking was to drill a deeper hole in the brass bushing that the master cylinder push rod goes into. This should cause the clutch to engage sooner. I'm just not sure how much of a change I can achieve without compromising the bushing.

Has anyone else tried this?

A new bushing is around $6 so not too much to lose.

 

[Ignacio]

I gotta ask....did you adjust the number wheel any on the clutch handle? I didn't find my '05 and '14 were noticeably different.

 

[PapaUtah]

Slipper clutch engages differently? I am tempted to put one in my 2013.5, but I want to try one out first on the 16...maybe I will get a chance tomorrow...

 

[TomInPA]

Think about the advantage of a clutch that engages in the last 25% of travel...slight pulls let you shift. My 05 shifts like this and the only time the clutch lever event approaches the grip, is at a full stop. A clutch that engages and disengages near the end of travel is faster, more responsive and lets you really feel the release point. I would hate a clutch that required a full pull.

 

[Oublaj]

I have a 16 ES. I just adjusted the wheel on the lever and it works fine.

 

[Fred W]

Yes, the slipper clutch engagement is considerably different. It is more progressive than the regular clutch so the slip zone is a larger part of the lever travel. I find that I can get clean shifts in both directions by only fanning the clutch about 1/2 way in.

 

[rbentnail]

What I was thinking was to drill a deeper hole in the brass bushing that the master cylinder push rod goes into. This should cause the clutch to engage sooner. I'm just not sure how much of a change I can achieve without compromising the bushing.

Has anyone else tried this?

A new bushing is around $6 so not too much to lose.

My recommendation is "Don't do that!" There's not much depth on that bushing to begin with and you'll damage your lever if you don't disassemble and inspect often. Trust me on this, BTDT.

What I'd do instead is buy a bushing or two, sure, but also but a push rod or two. Modify the push rod by cutting/grinding off like 1/16" and smoothing it out and trying it. Then repeat until you achieve some improvement you can live with. I'd leave the bushing alone.

 

[RacinRay]

Thanks for the input. I think I'll take a look at modifying the pushrod.

Adjusting the lever closer to the helped but i'd still like the clutch to engage sooner.

 

[Fred W]

Thanks for the input. I think I'll take a look at modifying the pushrod. Adjusting the lever closer to the helped but i'd still like the clutch to engage sooner.

Not trying to be a wise ass, but why? I like the engagement point towards the end of travel, as that point can be moved closer or further from the bar. I'm not understanding how having it grab closer to the bar is better if you have to pull the lever all the way in to get there?

 

[RacinRay]

I have stubby fingers. Even with my levers adjusted as close to the grips as possible I still have to stretch so to speak to control the lever at the end of its arc.

 

[Fred W]

Ah... Do you still have the stock levers? Maybe try some CNC Pazzo knock offs. I got mine on FleaBay for cheap and they feel great with bigger adjustment range.

 

[RacinRay]

I've got Pazzo levers currently. They're almost there but still a little much reach.

 

[Viper Pilot]

Pazzo's and the -16' slipper clutch is the ONLY way to go!!!! Try it you'll like it!!