Clutch

[Imp]

My 08 has 85,800 miles and for the last week it has been hard to get it into neutral. Yesterday I had the clutch lever pulled all the way but the motorcycle kept creeping forward at a red light (had it in 1st). The clutch lever does not pull easier or harder, but it fees like it does not disengage the clutch till the very last 15% of the pull. My question is , is my assumption correct that I need to replace my clutch?

 

[azitlies]

Probably... but...

when's the last time you bled the clutch?

That would be the first thing I'd do. Then go from there.

Still bad? The clutch on the FJR is easy to get to.

It may also be in need of a "clutch soak". It's possible anyway that is all it is. The symptoms sound like that, but with 85k? maybe just replace the friction plates none the less.

Good luck with it, pretty easy fix really.

 

[AlleyCat]

I know for a fact that if the clutch is slipping under hard acceleration, that is a tell-tale sign that your clutch plates are getting worn... What you describe seems to tell me to check your clutch fluid levels first (hydraulic clutch on the FJR). If all is well, then I would guess that your clutch is getting tired. It is my understanding that as the clutch gets worn, more fluid is required to compensate for the lever travel - when there is not enough fluid, then the clutch doesn't fully disengage giving you the symptoms you are getting.

At 85,000 miles, it surely sounds like the clutch is due (you got your money's worth). I am no expert (far from it), just my 2 cents... the experienced folks will chime in soon enough...

 

[jeremyr62]

Go for ride, find a long gentle incline. put it in 5th gear, give it plenty of beans up the incline. If it slips you need a new clutch. If it doesn't slip, your clutch is fine. Look elsewhere.

 

[LAF]

My 08 has 85,800 miles and for the last week it has been hard to get it into neutral. Yesterday I had the clutch lever pulled all the way but the motorcycle kept creeping forward at a red light (had it in 1st). The clutch lever does not pull easier or harder, but it fees like it does not disengage the clutch till the very last 15% of the pull. My question is , is my assumption correct that I need to replace my clutch?

If you need a clutch pac I have a new one out of my 10. I put a Barrnet Clutch Pac and Scorpion Spring Kit in at 0 miles. It has been packed in oil and all steels and plates are new. Have no idea what a new clutch pac costs but this one is just sitting in oil in a plastic bag and I do not anticipate using it in the near future. Make an offer. I am in PA.

 

[Intech]

Good advice above. If the clutch isn't releasing I would suspect a hydraulic issue. Give it a good bleed. Worn clutch is indicated by slipping not gripping.

 

[Fred W]

+1 to what the others have said.

Slipping would = bad clutch. Not releasing = bad hydraulic actuation. Most likely is you got air into the line somewhere. Have you done any maintenance on the clutch fluid lately? Or did you recently have your left handlebar disconnected for some reason? If you pull the bolts out of it and lay the handlebar down sideways the fluid can run out of the line and introduce air. Same thing could happen if your bike took a nap on the left side.

Probably just need to bleed the hydraulic line and get the air out.

Oh, one more thought... you didn't recently adjust the levers inward, did you? There have been reports from some second gen owners that they did not get full clutch disengagement when they had their levers adjusted in.

 

[Imp]

Thank you for all the advice. I have not bled the clutch fluid (ever) so that is where I am going to start, I did adjust the lever from 3 to 5 setting so that could be a contributing to the problem. It has not been down. Thanks for the offer for the clutch plates, If it is the clutch then I will give an offer to buy the 2010 plates.

 

[SkooterG]

I have not bled the clutch fluid (ever)

That's your problem. You should bleed ALL hydraulic fluids every two years. Some do it every year. I would never go more than three. So while you're at it, do your brake lines too.

 

[Burnspot]

As others have noted, it's probably the clutch fluid. I was lax in doing mine and when I recently flushed it, I found a lot of "gray goo" at the bottom of the reservoir. Used a syringe to pull all of that crap out before doing a complete flush (and finally installed the speed bleeder I'd gotten for the clutch a year ago). Clutch action was much improved afterwards. Good luck!

 

[odot]

Anyone here actually gone through a set of clutch plates that were worn enough to be replaced?

Just checking the bs level here, folks.

 

[SkooterG]

Anyone here actually gone through a set of clutch plates that were worn enough to be replaced?

Just checking the bs level here, folks.

I did. But it was while doing 'slow races' and abusing the **** out of my clutch. Lesson learned. Maybe one or two others, but none specific I can recall.

Clicky Thingy

 

[Imp]

Will bleed / replace fluid this weekend.

 

[Shane]

Thank you for all the advice. I have not bled the clutch fluid (ever) so that is where I am going to start, I did adjust the lever from 3 to 5 setting so that could be a contributing to the problem. It has not been down. Thanks for the offer for the clutch plates, If it is the clutch then I will give an offer to buy the 2010 plates.

In addition to changing out the fluid...

It's also worth a try to simply change the lever dial position back to some other numbers and see what happens.

It does change how much disengagement is available, as well as where in the available travel the friction zone is. Even with new fluid, one '03 with which I am quite familiar will not fully disengage the clutch with the lever set to the closest position.

For those with smaller hands (not me), it's worth knowing about.

On the center-stand with bike running, the rear wheel should be able to be completely stopped with the clutch pulled in, in gear.

All the best,

Shane

 

[Fred W]

In addition to changing out the fluid...

It's also worth a try to simply change the lever dial position back to some other numbers and see what happens.

+1

I do not really think that this type of clutch disengagement problem would be caused by old fluid. As long as it doesn't have any air in it, even old fluid is incompressible. The primary contaminant in DOT 3/4 brake fluid is water, absorbed right out of the air, and water is just as incompressible as the glycol fluid itself. In the brake system, where lots of heat is generated, water turns to steam, which is highly compressible and can be the source of mushy brake feel. But clutch slaves don't get that hot.

I have a feeling this was caused by adjusting you brake lever in too far. As I said before, many other second gen folks have experienced clutch drag (incomplete disengagement) when they did this, even on brand new bikes. The difference seems to have come around due to changes they made to accommodate the AE auto clutch in 2006 and beyond.

Still... all of your hydraulics should be flushed at least every other year. More often if you live in a damp climate (like Floriduh). Skooter could probably get away with less often, living in the desert. The main thing you want to prevent is the absorbed water from corroding your hydraulic system innards.

 

[Imp]

I changed the clutch fluid, it seems fixed for right now. I will know when I take the Feejer out for a longer ride. There was a lot of crud in there, I was amazed. No riding this weekend, it is time to brew some beer again.

 

[Fred W]

I changed the clutch fluid, it seems fixed for right now. I will know when I take the Feejer out for a longer ride. There was a lot of crud in there, I was amazed. No riding this weekend, it is time to brew some beer again.

Kule!! Watcha be brewin?

I need to clean up my gear and get a couple of batches done this winter too. I want to remake my Maibock recipe which came out totally stellar last time, and maybe step it up to 10 gallons since it was so good.

It's a bit hard to get motivated since the boy landed the pro brewing job (my dream job when I was younger) and brings great beer home for free. But that also means we won't feel compelled top drink it up when it is still green.

 

[Imp]

OK the update, I changed the fluid and all is well. There was a bunch of crud in there, with the new fluid all works like new. Now to brewing, the beer we made was an Irish Red and a Blood Red Ale where we used beets to give it the extra color. I built the all electric system last year, we used my neighbors system before but he went commercial so it is good we have our own now. I think I have the mash temps down by now, since we have the system outdoor (under our stilt house) I have to put the ambient temps into the calculation to get the right mash temps. My wife creates the recipes and I do the rest. We found that we have become real beer snobs over time.

 

[azitlies]

OK the update, I changed the fluid and all is well. There was a bunch of crud in there, with the new fluid all works like new. Now to brewing, the beer we made was an Irish Red and a Blood Red Ale where we used beets to give it the extra color. I built the all electric system last year, we used my neighbors system before but he went commercial so it is good we have our own now. I think I have the mash temps down by now, since we have the system outdoor (under our stilt house) I have to put the ambient temps into the calculation to get the right mash temps. My wife creates the recipes and I do the rest. We found that we have become real beer snobs over time.

I'm really likin the beer stuff! let's talk more beer stuff

You'll have to do more talkin... I don't know **** about that lol