clutchless upshifts

[NoCage]

Sometimes I upshift w/o pulling in the clutch. I think this is supposed to be okay with sequential transmissions. I have to roll off enough throttle to match engine speed, or I get a little tranny lash, which I know isn't good. Is this a bad habit? Opinions?

 

[twowheelnut]

No gnashing, no worries!

 

[Geezer]

We had a thread 'to clutch or not to clutch' last summer which had some differing of opinions on this but it doesn't show up when I search for it now. Maybe it got eaten during the hack. Some folks thought that shifting without clutching can cause premature wear on the shift parts inside the gearbox, some said nah.

Anyway, I sometimes shift up without the clutch. I used to do it a lot on other bikes but I feel more comfortable using the clutch on the FJR. I would say to use whatever metrhod feels right to you. Ease your toe up on the shifter until you have taken all the slack out, ease off the throttle just the right amount, and snick it into the next gear. With some practice it can be done smoothly.

 

[FlyingLow]

It seems to me that after you've been a rider for a while that pulling the clutch lever becomes a subconscious act that you don't even think about. You would then have to actively think about not clutching for a shift.

Probably won't hurt anything in the trans or driveline if done with care but what's the point? Unless you're racing for money or pinks and every hundredth of a second counts.

 

[evil_henchman]

Dirt riders learn real quick how to shift without the clutch what with your bike trying like hell to buck you off and all. No big deal. like TWN said, if it ain't grinding there ain't no problem.

 

[jestal]

I have shifted dirt bikes mercilessly without the clutch and the trans and shift dogs always look fine when the trans is torn down. We used to laugh about pegging the throttle and "dancing on the shifter" on the starts of MX races.

But there is one difference to consider. A dirt bike driveline is not "hooked" to the pavement like a heavy street bike tire. Also, with a shaft like the FJR there is no chain slap or chain free play to help with the transition.

I don't think you will really hurt anything doing clutchless shifts, though, on a street bike. If you can just blip the throttle precisely it is actually a very smooth way to go.

As discussed previously, the whole premise of the new 06 "automatic" is clutchless shifting the trans. It is the same transmission fundamentally. The PCM can precisely "kill" the engine to make the shift without changing the throttle opening.

I installed the DynoTech Powershifter on my FJR and it works flawlessly. Full throttle upshifts at redline by just snicking the lever. The load cell on the shift linkage sends a signal to the PCIII which kills the injectors for a calibratible amount of time. I found the factory default of 65 msec kill was a trifle long so I have shortened it to 50 msec and it works great.

DynoTech does not market a kit for an FJR PowerShifter but the Powershifter will work with any PCIII so it is just a matter of obtaining the Powershift kit for any bike and fab your own shift arm linkage. None of the generic DynoJet shift rods for the powershifter load cell will work on the FJR but making one is pretty simple. You will have to find a left handed tap as one of the screws on the rod ends is left handed.

Full throttle upshifts by just snicking the lever are adicting....LOL LOL

 

[Groo]

Jestal,

If you don't mind, could you post what part numbers you bought from Dynojet to make this happen? I've been interested in something like this for a while... Dale Walker also makes a quick shifter that I'd seen in the past. I just recently installed a PCIII, so I'm interested in knowing what I'd need to put something like this in place.

Thanks in advance

 

[Toecutter]

Jestal,
If you don't mind, could you post what part numbers you bought from Dynojet to make this happen? I've been interested in something like this for a while... Dale Walker also makes a quick shifter that I'd seen in the past. I just recently installed a PCIII, so I'm interested in knowing what I'd need to put something like this in place.

Thanks in advance

How 'bout making a little kit that has the right parts and instructions to tweak it to the FJR? One man's "easy" fab job is my six-month gutache.

 

[Groo]

If you look on the Dynojet website in the applications table of the Quick Shifter manual, it says that the shaft for an FJR1300 is "in development". I've got an email to their sales staff to find out what timeframe "in development" means.

 

[jestal]

I ordered a 4-102 sensor as listed here.....

https://www.powercommander.com/quickshift.shtml

The sensor goes inline with the shift rod that connects the foot shift lever to the trans shift lever. I had also replaced the trans shift lever with the R1 part that is often mentioned.

I suspect "in development" means they need to fab up and reproduce shift rod parts to accomodate the specifics of the FJR as the sensor is the same for all applications regardless of the shift rod parts. None of the generic shift rod parts that DynoTech lists will work for the FJR so don't bother.

The FJR is a little difficult in that the diameter of the shift sensor is such that there is very little space for in the shift rod without colliding with other parts. It will fit but there is very little margin on either end of the travel. So little that without the reduced travel of the R1 arm on the trans shaft I don't know if there is enough room actually. That is why specific length shift rod pieces must be made for the FJR...and is why DynoTech may never "develop" one for the FJR due to the limited volume.

The only fabrication really needed, though, is to find some short pieces of round aluminum rod, cut to length, drill and tap the ends for the 6mm threaded parts and screw it all together. You'll need a 6 mm left handed tap which is pretty easy to find at most any industrial tool or metric fastener supply shop. I drilled and tapped both ends of the aluminum rods that replace the stock shift rod and attached one end to the female threads on the shift sensor with a short piece of 6 mm stud cut from a 6 mm bolt. Lots of loctite and jam nuts. My only adjustment now is to take the whole assembly apart as I pretty much lost the ability to simply turn the rod and adjust the shift lever height but that is not such a big deal.

 

[Groo]

Email reply from Dynojet...

It is possible to make part #4-104 work on any application. This is a universal kit which may need to have brackets fabricated to allow the unit to mount properly. At this time we do not intend on looking at the FJR for this application. Thanks.

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I noticed on your website that your Quick Shifter manual application table shows the FJR1300 as “in development”. Is there any way I can find out what timeframe you might be likely to have a product available? I have an FJR1300, and just recently installed a PCIIIUSB, and am interested in installing a Quick Shifter.

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Soooooo,

Doesn't look like anything other than Jestal's version will be happening anytime soon. The #4-104 isn't my cup of tea...

Jestal,

If you ever get the time to take a couple pictures of your setup, it would be greatly appreciated.... I think I understand what you posted above, but a picture is worth a thousand words... I've also previously done the R1 lever swapout...

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

SouthernFJR: "....up-shifting without pulling in the clutch. Does it hurt anything? Opinions?"

Well, as you can probably gather from all the discussions about power-shifters -- there's not much to worry about. Actually, *good high-performance motorcycles* have traditionally had slick-shifting constant-mesh gear-boxes that are just a joy to operate in the "snick -- snick" mode (with or with-out the clutch). *Those bikes that either have sporting/racing aspirations or are closely related to same* -- unlike: some, more agricultural, makes (which will remain nameless for now) where the term "snick" just doesn't seem to apply.

Contrarily: slow, ponderous shifts often are a source of clunks and lash due to the hi-performance design of the motorcycle constant-mesh sequential box -- good bikes are made to snick. Just one of the many added benefits that come with the FJR.

Imo, it's pure pleasure to have a Sport-Touring bike with a slick gearbox (and, a pita not to).

Altho, as the Greeks say, "All things in moderation" -- one of the common maladies with "Rode hard -- Put-up wet" Sport Bikes: is jumping out of one of the lower gears (often 2nd). There is such a thing as abuse...