Code 12 Hell

[canucklehead-biker]

Ok... Apologize if formatting etc sucks, doing this on phone

On my way to CFR, stopped to see family in Ontario and began having starting problems.

Will try to put this in sequence and hope someone has some ideas

2006 AE, 120-odd thousand km, all recalls complete .

won't start and a fault code 12 on the dash.

Reviewd a number of posts on here, and got a lot of help from Yamafitter and RaYzerman (thanks lads!)

I tested the Crank Posn Sensor 522 ohms at the connector under the air box and at the ECU connector.

Wiring is fine end to end.

Pickup rotor looks brand new and is tight etc

Fiddle with the sensor with the key on and the code clears and bike partially turns over, then stops, engine light come on and code 12 again

Replicated this several times, and conclude that the sensor must be wonky.

Able to access diag mode, etc so ECU appears to be fine.

So...

FJRGuy's wrecked 07 is in my garage back in Calgary and he's on his way here. Asked him to pull some parts from the wreck (which is running) and bring them so I can get this sorted.

Parts arrived tonight: CPS, ECU and some other bits

Tested the replacement CPS per manual - 500 ohms, so in spec

Installed, turn the key... No start, code 12

Swap in the new ECU... No code 12, now I have a code 54... WTF?

Then it hits me: Canuckistani bikes have ignition keys coded to the immobilizer circuit... The new ECU doesn't recognize my key!

So here's the question: will the ECU do any diagnostics if the wrong key is in the ignition, that is, has the change in ECUs fixed the code 12, and now I need to rekey to the new ECU (or find a way to trick it?)

And is there anything else I need to check before I give up and tow the bike to the nearest dealer to sort out?

Thanks... Sure the answer is here on the Forum (it usually is!)

Griff (scratching my head 3000 kms from home)

 

[FJRPierre]

could it be key contact related?

 

[canucklehead-biker]

I've sprayed the key cylinder with contact cleaner and worked the key enough times that I don't think that's an issue. Also checked all the ground spiders and inspected every electrical connector on the bike.

 

[Queensland Ken]

Just as you thought.

Error code 54

IMMOBILIZER UNIT

Codes do not match between ECU and immobilizer unit.

Noise interference or disconnected lead/cable.

1) Obstruction due to radio wave noise.

2) Immobilizer unit failure.

3) ECU failure
(When the used parts from other vehicles are used, the code re-registering key ID is not registered to the ECU.)
.

 

[canucklehead-biker]

Ok. Original ECU is back in, bike is buttoned up, hauling to the dealer in London in the morning.

Really curious what is causing the code 12. Guess I'll finish the ride to CFR in a rental car...

Griff

 

[yamafitter]

Too bad Jeff did not bring the red key for the ECU re-coding but replacing the CPS should had solved it based on what what you saw earlier. This is a bummer.

At least you'll have a chance to ride a new 2013 at Huntsville on Saturday.

 

[yamafitter]

Just as you thought.
Error code 54

IMMOBILIZER UNIT

Codes do not match between ECU and immobilizer unit.

Noise interference or disconnected lead/cable.

1) Obstruction due to radio wave noise.

When I had my ECU replaced under warranty over the altitude issue we couldn't get the ECU to reprogram with the red key until I realized I had my iPhone in my pocket and it was causing interference. I powered down the phone and we were then able to get the ECU programmed.

 

[canucklehead-biker]

So if I have FJRGuy's red key, I can maybe make this work? Hmmmm

Might not be dead in the water yet, if FedEx can come through,,,

 

[Canadian FJR]

No idea what the issue is but good luck. I hope you get this sorted out soon.

Canadian FJR

 

[mcatrophy]

So if I have FJRGuy's red key, I can maybe make this work? Hmmmm Might not be dead in the water yet, if FedEx can come through,,,

I'm not sure if you would be able to program the "new" ECU to your keys, even if you have the red key. If I remember correctly, you have to turn the ignition on with the red key to start the procedure, clearly you can't with the "old" ignition switch on your bike, and trying to fool it by turning on with your "old" key holding the red key close is unlikely to succeed.

Your best bet would probably be to change out the ignition switch for the one from the donor bike, and use its keys. (And, no reprogramming necessary.) But you have the hassle of swapping the ignition switches.

 

[Donal]

Thought this rang a (distant) bell! had a look on fjrowners and the final solution was to fit a good battery!.............................

"Thanks everyone for the information.
low battery charge seems was the origin of the problem.
Bought battery gharger an problem solved.
Happy fast and save 2011 for every owner"

So, suggest you start with the simple stuff before going for 'lift off'...............................

 

[FJRGuy]

So if I have FJRGuy's red key, I can maybe make this work? Hmmmm Might not be dead in the water yet, if FedEx can come through,,,

I'm not sure if you would be able to program the "new" ECU to your keys, even if you have the red key. If I remember correctly, you have to turn the ignition on with the red key to start the procedure, clearly you can't with the "old" ignition switch on your bike, and trying to fool it by turning on with your "old" key holding the red key close is unlikely to succeed.

You'd have to remove the old chip from the equation, (either by cutting off the head or having a none chipped blank cut to match old key,) but I see no reason why we couldn't 'fool' the system this way. There are no physical contacts to the chip is there? None that I can tell.

Your best bet would probably be to change out the ignition switch for the one from the donor bike, and use its keys. (And, no reprogramming necessary.) But you have the hassle of swapping the ignition switches.

That was discussed as a long term possibility, but not practical at this location.

The discussion appears to be moot as the dealer says its not the ECU. We will however be investigating for knowledge sake when we get home.

 

[dcarver]

Bummer. Best wishes Sir Griff!

 

[mcatrophy]

...You'd have to remove the old chip from the equation, (either by cutting off the head or having a none chipped blank cut to match old key,) but I see no reason why we couldn't 'fool' the system this way. There are no physical contacts to the chip is there? None that I can tell.

...

Trouble is you'd be cutting up the key that you would want to use as one of your two "normal" keys. And you are correct, no physical contacts.

One more question for canucklehead-biker, yours being an AE. Was this the "d:12" or the "SH__12" fault code? Very different causes.

 

[FJRGuy]

Canucklehead is rolling again. Off to Montreal to pick up Mrs. Canucklehead.

Donal wasn't far off the mark. Apparently "Combination of a ****** Chinese battery and an old solenoid that was robbing"

 

[canucklehead-biker]

Ok, update.

Brought the bike to Inglis in London they cleared space to get me in right away and get this sorted out. Kudos to Gird Inglis the owner!

The tech worked through the usual causes of the code 12 (not Sh-12, to answer a question in a previous post) and also tested peak signal voltages on both mine and FJRGuy's donor CPS. Both were within tolerances but the replacement apparently had a cleaner signal so that one was used.

The wiring harness, ECU and CPS were ruled out and so began the hunt. In the end, 2 things: first, the cheap assed Chinese replacement battery I picked up on the road to Georgia a few weeks ago wasn't producing a lot of cranking amps, although the voltage was good. Second, my starter solenoid was a bit wonky, and (apparently) the draw was such that there wasn't enough juice left to get the proper signal to the ECU, so it was doing its job and not letting me start, and throwing the code 12 fault.

One good (and a lot more expensive) YUASA battery and the solenoid from FJRGuy's dead bike later, I'm back on the road and headed once again toward CFR.

The note above about battery state is bang on. I foolishly discounted the battery since it was brand new, when the difficult starting before the code 12 shut me down completely should have been the smoking gun we were looking for. Interesting note, another post on here for a code 12 problem also indicated that the solution was to replace the starter solenoid. In hindsight it makes sense, but there's nothing in the FSM that would point you in that direction (at least I haven't found anything).

So, problem solved and my rally saved. Kudos to Jeff, Bill and Ray for parts and advice, and big kudos to Gord Inglis and his team at Inglis Cycle Centre in London Ontario.

See you all on Thursday in Huntsville, reckon I owe some rounds

Griff

 

[dcarver]

FREAKING AWESOME!

 

[FJRGuy]

Trouble is you'd be cutting up the key that you would want to use as one of your two "normal" keys. And you are correct, no physical contacts.

Better than shipping the bike to a dealer and waiting for a new ECU/Key/Cylinder while on the road... if the ECU was the problem. ;-)

 

[FJRPierre]

glad i could help, i drink coors (or anything really )