Corrosion Alert on an 07'

[Lake Powell]

I was in the process of removing my front wheel so as to remove my forks to send to GP Suspensions for the group buy suspension service. I have removed the front wheel once before to have a new Michelin installed but that's it for the front wheel. Since I didn't want the entire assembly for the ABS sensor hanging for the time it will take to get the forks serviced, I decided to remove the sensor from the larger part that is basically the left wheel bushing that goes between the left fork and the front wheel.

When I removed the sensor there was quite a bit of corrosion on the aluminum bushing part from what appears as disimiliar metal corrosion as the sensor bracket is steel. Lots of oxidation and pitting on the aluminum part, the bulk of the part is painted black but right where the sensor bolts down is bare aluminum.

I'm wondering what to do about this type of disimiliar metal corrosion. I planning on taking some light sandpaper and get rid of the white oxidation residue but I'm not sure what I can do to keep it from coming back. I was thinking of coating it with some grease but I'm not positive that will keep it from reacurring.

The corrosion isn't bad, yet, but it an 07' and don't ride in that much rain or moisture.

Anybody have any ideas?

 

[Ignacio]

I just wipe off the excess being VERY, VERY careful not to rub the ABS sensor. I also don't use Simple Green in this area as it doesn't like aluminum and tends to seep in nooks and crannies.

 

[TNT]

Not sure if it can be used in this instance, but my aluminum horse trailer has mylar tape anywhere the aluminum meets the steel frame to keep the corrosion from happening.

 

[BkrK12]

A very common problem. A very light coating of anti-seize will help, after you clean it up.

 

[Lake Powell]

I just wipe off the excess being VERY, VERY careful not to rub the ABS sensor. I also don't use Simple Green in this area as it doesn't like aluminum and tends to seep in nooks and crannies.

I havn't used Simple Green in this area but will keep this in mind in the future.

Can you share some of your knowlege about the ABS sensor and what not to do?

I'm a bit confused, and confuse easily!

 

[Fencer]

A good general rule of thumb for ALL sensors

Don't touch them or let the come in contact with anything. The tips seem to be VERY sensative.

 

[Low Level FJR Pilot]

Working with dissimilar metals is an everyday occurance for me working on Navy Ships. We use something known as Poly Sulfide or Marine sealant. You can get it at any boat shop and it comes in white or black. Another brand name for it is boat life. Might want to watch it around the main sensor, just apply at the bolt holes and to the bolts.

 

[jeremyr62]

I had this problem front and rear. I just grease up the bare aluminium bearing area every now and then. The sensor is just a magnet so dont be too worried about getting grease on it. If you take out and refit every so often it will stop the corrosion getting a hold.

I have done this for three years with no issues at all and I regularly test the ABS and it works fine.

 

[Ignacio]

The sensor is just a magnet so dont be too worried about getting grease on it.

Uhhhh.....no. It's not just a magnet.

It's a Hall Effect sensor that works with a magnetic field, but it's a very much a precision item. They're also sensitive to static electric buildup. One doesn't want to risk gumming it up with grease that might trap ferrous metal particles that is common in road splooge. Feel free to slather yours with grease if you want, but at $100 a pop and risk of some flaky ABS problems that might crop up when least expected, I would encourage people to keep theirs ****-free.

 

[jeremyr62]

The sensor is just a magnet so dont be too worried about getting grease on it.

Uhhhh.....no. It's not just a magnet.

It's a Hall Effect sensor that works with a magnetic field, but it's a very much a precision item. They're also sensitive to static electric buildup. One doesn't want to risk gumming it up with grease that might trap ferrous metal particles that is common in road splooge. Feel free to slather yours with grease if you want, but at $100 a pop and risk of some flaky ABS problems that might crop up when least expected, I would encourage people to keep theirs ****-free.

I made the assumption the OP has common sense. Did I say slather?

 

[HaulinAshe]

I'm trying CRC Battery Terminal Protector spray as a corrosion inhibitor.

Also found that a battery post wire brush works extremely well to clean off the corrosion buildup on the inside of the housing.

 

[noob]

I bought the spray version of this, called "corrosion block", and while expensive, it really does an excellent job...

clicky

 

[Checkswrecks]

I bought the spray version of this, called "corrosion block", and while expensive, it really does an excellent job...
clicky

As opposed to the bottle marked "AVIATION", the non-aviation Simple Green has has been banned by military aviation due to extensive problems with corrosion. It's actually why the company formulated a separate new aviation product. I'd stay FAR away from it.

The Navy did a study on Corrosion Block, ACF-50, and a number of other thin-film inhibitors. The summary is that they work for a bit over a year in protected interior airframe compartments. However, on anything else exposed to occasional exterior exposure, they work until washed or for up to a matter of weeks. They don't hurt paint, so I just spray liberally after washing.