CRISPY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[ponyfool]

It's not only ohm's law. You forgot Maxwell's Equations, and some neccessary material science.

For me, none of that matters, it's all about Murphy's Law......

 

[ionbeam]

The P.H.D. response (Piled Higher & Deeper). The stator doesn’t achieve full output until ~5k rpm. The stator will surly be taxed when riding below 5k rpm with a load of power hungry devices operating. While the watts calculations are true for a fixed situation where the stator is putting out full power , the available I (current) is variable, being dependent on rpm until 5k rpm.

It has been reported by Electrosport that the Yamaha stator doesn’t deliver the full rated power in any case. Dunno, they had a small sample but it is notable that *any* stator didn’t put out rated power.

Drawing high current for long periods of time may cause self-heating that can cause the device to enter either thermal shutdown, a safe mode designed in by the manufacturers, or thermal runaway and self-destruct. Looking back at the Electrosport thread, I wonder if this was the problem Ionbeam was seeing

Turns out that the voltage at the VR was in fact remaining pretty stable, more on this below.
As to my wandering voltage – In an earlier post I discussed what was actually happening. The voltage regulator in the FJR does not have remote voltage sensing. The VR is internally regulated, meaning that it will do what ever it can within its capability to maintain 14.0 volts at the output terminal. The VR doesn’t see what is actually delivered to the battery or the main power feed to the motorcycle. Some motorcycles have a 5th wire that senses the voltage at the battery or main power harness and drives the VR output so that the battery is always 13.8 volts, even if it means that the output terminal on the VR is as 18 volts. The problem with the 5th wire is when the connection goes bad. The VR will always think the end voltage is low so it runs WOT and fries all the electricals. Uhh, back on topic – When I monitored the output terminal directly on the VR I discovered that it is regulating pretty well, only minor variations and limited sagging. When looking at the battery, the voltage was significantly lower than at the VR. The reason for the voltage drop between the VR and the battery is a collection of connections. Connections = VR connection to harness; connection to main fuse; main fuse voltage drop; connection from fuse to harness; connector in main harness; connection from harness to battery (then connection to key switch; connection through key switch; connection to fuse block; connection out of fuse block to harness with connectors to various electrical loads) there is a small voltage drop at each of these connections. The sum of all these drops results in the lower voltage I see at the battery and even lower voltage on the main switched electrical harness. From a previous post on this topic: If I see one big opportunity for improvement it would be to use 10 ga wire directly from the R/R through a DC circuit breaker like a Bussman automatic resetting circuit breaker going directly to the battery. That should cure the voltage difference between the VR and the battery.

Relevance to the original post #1 – The stator is very taxed when there is a full electrical load while spinning less than 5k rpm.

We all ride with Murphey, the final decider on the quality of any ride :lol:

 

[jestal]

Dale, out of curiosity, have you looked at your Electrosport stator after high miles to see what it looks like? I would sort of expect it to be running pretty warm, also and possibly showing similar color. It is making more current so there is really nothing to make one think it is not going to turn pretty brown with time also.

For the stator in question to be performing fine after 90K I don't know that I would necessarily condemn it for the color and deposits. I would think more along the lines of more cooling and/or more oil flow over it for cooling maybe, not necessarily a stator redesign.

I have the Electrosport stator in my FJR also but I haven't put enough miles on it to "color" it I'm sure!

The early Yamaha Ventures were notorious for cooking the stators in the same way. Yamaha actually released a service kit for those that added a hollow bolt to the end of the crank for more oil flow (more cooling) to the stator area along with a wire oil slinger that slipped inside the hollow bolt to distribute the oil over the stator windings for more cooling.

 

[Warchild]

Dale, out of curiosity, have you looked at your Electrosport stator after high miles to see what it looks like?

Haven't opened the stator cover back up since installation, and only have about 19000-20000 miles on it anyway. But I also expected it to darken up over time... that's pretty normal stuff.

Not so sure GZ's stator would have made it all the way through to the end of the Iron Butt Rally in September, as he has quite a few events and trips planned even before the start of the 'Butt. His bike will undoubtedly be way, waaaaay over 100,000 miles before he even pulls up to the Start Line.

A typical front-runner in the IBR will average over 1000 miles a day for each of the 11 days, so... better to have replaced his stator now, then fret about it during a dark rainstorm on Day 7.....

 

[dougc]

A typical front-runner in the IBR will average over 1000 miles a day for each of the 11 days, so... better to have replaced his stator now, then fret about it during a dark rainstorm on Day 7.....

Hell, even some of the "middle of the pack" guys run over 1K miles each and every day of the IBR. So a crispy stator is not a good thing and I'm really interested in what my "low mileage" stator looks like.

dougc

 

[Behmer]

Here's an Electrosport with about 20,000 on it.

 

[beeroux]

Interesting how most of the blue is gone.

I guess the thing getting dark is normal?

GZ

 

[jestal]

Looks like the ElectroSport stator is getting pretty warm, too.......

 

[Warchild]

I guess the thing getting dark is normal?

Yes, it is. Completely normal.

Behmer's stator from ElectroSport looks about how I would expect it to look at 20K miles. While the initial blue insulation color has obviously changed, the insulation material itself looks to be in excellent condition in this photo.