cruise control

[Steel_Gin]

I’d like to add cruise control on my 2012 and I read a post several months ago where someone mentioned how much they like theirs as well as not having any issues with it. I am kicking myself but I didn’t save the link to the post but I do remember some details from the post. When I checked out the system out it didn’t appear to be a packaged setup, again didn’t save the link for that either, and it wasn’t something I had seen talked about before. So here is what I remember from the post, it took him about eight hours to install, he offered assistance to anyone interested in installing it and it uses the ABS sensor to monitor the speed. I want to say it wasn’t a vacuum system but I could be wrong on that. The person’s avatar I believe has changed, I have looked at a lot of posts and I haven’t seen it; up to about a month ago (or a little longer) it was one that I remember seeing on a semi regular bases. It was a picture of an older gentleman in a chair wearing a baseball cap.

Yes I know it’s screwed up I can remember all that and not the topic the post was under. My wife tells me my memory is shot and I politely disagree saying I remember the important things. Her answer to that is, “No you don’t”. I better check the calendar and make sure our anniversary isn’t coming up………… Happy Friday everyone!!

 

[HotRodZilla]

The avatar almost sounds like Gramps' but I don't know that he's changed it.

 

[graler]

Is this the thread? I just searched Rostra and FJR Forum.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=104891

I am trying to get the nerve up to install a cruise. The Rostra electronic would probably be my choice.

 

[Richouse]

I am trying to get the nerve up to install a cruise. The Rostra electronic would probably be my choice.

I installed one of these on my former '07 FJR. I got it to work but not very good. The '07 was totaled and I bought a 2010 FJR and immediately put a vacuum actuated cruise on it. (CC-100). It works SO much better. This is just my opinion though… There are multiple posts here on how to install a Cruise Control. A little searching will yield a lot. I've installed 3 cruises on bikes… it just takes time and patients.

 

[mcatrophy]

Many installations on this site. Easiest is the McCruise, plug and play, but very expensive. The most common Is the CCS-100, takes a little thought, but still not hard.

FWIW, my installation shown here. Ignore early references to disappointment, my little issue was fixed (and explained). Still working well after 2 years and 18000-odd miles.

 

[Greb]

I have McCruise, if I had to do it over Id get the audiovox from murphs kits. Less expensive and works the same or better

 

[Steel_Gin]

The avatar almost sounds like Gramps' but I don't know that he's changed it.

Thanks Zilla, if the avatar hasn't been changed then Gramps isn't the one. I did look at his posts and didn't find what I was looking for.

Thanks for the advice on the McCruise. I will take a closer look at it.

 

[user 17635]

+1 on CCS-100 (Audiovox vacuum system). I installed mine about 3 years ago and I have had no problems with it at all. Install is definitely a major project, but doable, and as others pointed out, there's a ton of info about the process on this forum.
I know Audiovox stopped making them some time ago. I don't know if they're available anywhere now. When I bought mine, manufacturing had just stopped and the prices were starting to rise quickly.

 

[jayke]

You can still get the CCS-100 over at Murphs

https://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=422

 

[Bentmunky]

I've got the MC-Cruise installed on mine. I just took it on 4000 mile ride with no issues. In my opinion it was worth every penny! I know it seems expensive, but the thought and work that has gone into the kit shows! The instructions were outstanding and the fact that a tool is included to aide in getting the cable on the throttle cam really helps. I took my time on the install and had it done in a weekend. Fine tuning was a breeze, I have it set so that when you press 'Set', you don't feel a thing, you just let off the throttle and you're holding steady.

Hope this helps and good luck,

Jeff

 

[Chuck35]

Adding cruise has been on my radar since day one. All things being equal, I'd prefer an electronic actuator over a vacuum unit.

I have seen several references that the vacuum unit is better. Not that I doubt the collective wisdom here, but I wonder why?

What problems are inherent to the electronic actuators?

Have any of you used one successfully?

TIA

 

[str8]

+ some more on the CCS100. With research on this forum, you can get it installed correctly. Mine works flawlessly, don't know how I survived without it.

 

[fljab]

- 1 on the CCS - I'll be the voice of dissent.

I have run a CCS for ~70K miles and have not been satisfied. I am now on my second servo unit (blew the diaphragm in the first). It holds good in the East/flatlands, but doesn't seem to like hills or elevation at all. I've read the book, set the dip switches every way to Sunday, built a vac canister from PVC with the initial installation with a check valve. When the problem developed that led to replacing the servo, I first thought it was vacuum and checked all that - even replacing the check valve on the road w/no luck. This past summer I went to Alaska. The CC worked OK in the east, started acting up in the plains and basically didn't work again until I got close to home (which is another point - have a backup throttle lock!).

I'm looking to replace now with a Rostra and reading all I can which is how I found this thread - I already purchased a Rostra unit and thinking many of the wire connects should be the same or similar. Not much on write ups, and what there is is dated. I bought a Centrodyne pulse unit; some say you need it, some not, so I'm going to run it w/a bypass and try it both ways. More later....

 

[ionbeam]

- 1 on the CCS - I'll be the voice of dissent.
I have run a CCS for ~70K miles and have not been satisfied. I am now on my second servo unit (blew the diaphragm in the first). It holds good in the East/flatlands, but doesn't seem to like hills or elevation at all. I've read the book, set the dip switches every way to Sunday, built a vac canister from PVC with the initial installation with a check valve....The CC worked OK in the east, started acting up in the plains and basically didn't work again until I got close to home...

Dang, sorry to read about your problems. Your issues with an AVCC are not common. Is DIP switch #7 set to OFF?

How many vacuum ports did you tap? Some people say they tapped one port and it works fine but in the hills and mountains you really need to have 2 or better 3 vacuum port tapped.

With a Gen I most cruise controls can't run with the high signal count pulses from the VSS and need a stepped down signal. The Gen II uses the ABS sensor with pulse counts low enough that a cruise control could use the signal directly.

 

[Havard]

I will vote for the McCruise. More expensive but made for your specific bike and you have the support in Australia if you need it. I have not road tested mine yet. Two calls from Australia from those guys and a few emails and I installed myself and passed the diagnostics tests. It could be May before it warms up to road test. Good luck with your choice. I look forward this summers road tests of my McCruise. Did I mention that I didn't even buy my MCCruise from Australia and they still were more than happy to help me? I bought it from another FJR owner that sold his bike before installing.

 

[reaction57]

+1 on CCS-100 CAUSE I'M A CHEAP ***. Has worked great with no issues and I did the install

 

[mcatrophy]

- 1 on the CCS - I'll be the voice of dissent.
I have run a CCS for ~70K miles and have not been satisfied. I am now on my second servo unit (blew the diaphragm in the first). It holds good in the East/flatlands, but doesn't seem to like hills or elevation at all. ...

My CCS-100 wasn't satisfactory when I first installed it. After a lot of thinking and discussion, I found a cure was to make a breather for the actuator.

My write-up for the install here, ionbeam made me think, and my resultant "revelation". Might be significant.

 

[fljab]

I will look at my setup and try it again, however it will be a little bit before I can get to any western mountains to fully test it out.

I did go back and look at some of your points, and in the interest in admitting that I could be wrong about the setup -

> I do have #7 off, and have had it on at another time.

> my vac is tied into the MAP lines, so I ordered 4 check valves and 4 y connectors and will come off the ports on the TBs.

> I believe that I take the signal off the coil, not the ABS. I'll look at that and verify. In the meantime will go back and read mcatrophys write up and see if I missed something.

> My actuator is mounted under the seat. I read about maybe needing a vent hole in the cover? easy to do and that location should be alright to put a little hole w/no water issues.

Can we revisit dip switch settings? I know 4&5 are power settings, 7 should be off, and I have 1 on, but seems I saw somewhere 1 and 2 should be on.

 

[mcatrophy]

I will look at my setup and try it again, however it will be a little bit before I can get to any western mountains to fully test it out.
I did go back and look at some of your points, and in the interest in admitting that I could be wrong about the setup -

> I do have #7 off, and have had it on at another time.

> my vac is tied into the MAP lines, so I ordered 4 check valves and 4 y connectors and will come off the ports on the TBs.

> I believe that I take the signal off the coil, not the ABS. I'll look at that and verify. In the meantime will go back and read mcatrophys write up and see if I missed something.

> My actuator is mounted under the seat. I read about maybe needing a vent hole in the cover? easy to do and that location should be alright to put a little hole w/no water issues.

Can we revisit dip switch settings? I know 4&5 are power settings, 7 should be off, and I have 1 on, but seems I saw somewhere 1 and 2 should be on.

Commenting on your questions:
DIP switch #7 is a sensitivity and/or filter switch for the tacho signal. It seems that there is no problem with having it Off, but with On, some people have experienced a lack of signal, possibly associated with it being hot. So, Off is the safer bet (although I run mine On).

I use a single TBS port (FWIW the left one) with a vacuum canister as supplied by Murphs for the CCS-100. I've heard of one or two people having problems when using multiple ports and vacuum diodes, apparently causing rough running. Also there is a consensus of opinion that says using the MAP port(s) is a bad thing, I can't comment on this.

With my installation, I sealed my actuator against possible forced water ingress from the rear tyre. When I first tried it, I got considerable speed over-shoot when engaging the set speed, and slowness to react to going down hill. Both these were almost certainly caused by my actuator being sealed against air ingress, so the vacuum couldn't release very quickly. Venting cured this.

A brief word on the DIP switches. Mine are set to On Off Off On Off Off On (but I fully concur with #7 being Off).
#1 and #2 are used to select the range of speed inputs suggested, the manual says to put these to On-Off ("4000 PPM") when using only a tacho signal for speed sensing.
#3 should be On if a vehicle speed sensor is used as well as a tacho signal, Off if tacho only.
#4-#5 are used to adjust the response to speed change, set to On-Off for light vehicle, high horsepower.
#6 should be set Off according to the manual, no indication of its function.
#7 is some sort of sensitivity and/or filtering selection. Some installations show problems in the "On" position, possibly associated with heat, no reports of any problems in the "Off" position.

One other setting is the "jumper" near the LED and switch #1. This should be removed for a manual transmission.

Hope this helps.