Damper Rod Bolt

[fhaze]

I have a bandit 1200 as well as my fjr. I read a great tip (read Home Depot Special), about making a damper rod bolt holder.

Chek it out:

"Hi, i dont know if this is the right place to post. so feel free to move the post if it doesnt belong here.

I was rebuilding my forks and had trouble taking the damper cylinder out.

The tube will spin inside the fork wile i was trying to unscew the damper bolt from the botom.

with a trip to home depo + 12 bucks. bought :

4 3/4-10 hex nuts ( i ll post outside diameter and part number when i get home tonight)

1 threaded bar (long enough to reach the inside of the fork and have a few inches coming out the top)

attach the 2 of the 3/4 nuts to the end of the bar and tight them against each other.

do the same for the other end of the bar.

make sure they are flushed with the bar, so the bar doesn`t go inside the dumper cylinder.

insert one end inside the inner fork tube and lock it against the damper.

The damper has notches in the inside and the hex nut fits perfect.

Just hold to the bar with a wrench and proceed to unscew the alem damper bolt.

This makes it A LOT easyer if your damper bolt doesnt want to come out and you are tired of sweating and trying to put enough presure in the forks springs to lock the damper from turning."

SO.. my question is.. will this also work for FJR when I decide to disamble the fork for cleaning/upgrades?

Will the same tool work, or will I need to make another one in a different size?

Has anybody seen the Yam damper rod removal tool? What size it it?

 

[Pappy]

Fred, you just got that bike and already your taking it apart?!?

Did it displace El Bandito in your living room? Is she jealous?

:****:

 

[evil_henchman]

I don't know if it would work or not but it sure sounds like a good way to gouge the inside of the fork tube. If I understand you correctly that is. A better alternative is to just get a 1/2" drive 26mm socket and weld it to 20" of 3/4" - 1" pipe. That's basicly all the Yamaha fork tool is. A muffler shop can weld it for next to nothing if you don't weld.

 

[Cal24Master]

Your working way too hard. The way you remove the dampning rod is to put a 6mm allen socket on your impact wrench, attach it to your air compressor and simply remove the bolt. Do the opposite to install it. If you don't have a air compressor and impact wrench, shame on you for attempting repairs you are not equiped for.

Tom

 

[evil_henchman]

Your working way too hard. The way you remove the dampning rod is to put a 6mm allen socket on your impact wrench, attach it to your air compressor and simply remove the bolt. Do the opposite to install it. If you don't have a air compressor and impact wrench, shame on you for attempting repairs you are not equiped for.
Tom

That's the first thing I tried and it didn't work. <_< It just spun....

 

[mindtrip]

Your working way too hard. The way you remove the dampning rod is to put a 6mm allen socket on your impact wrench, attach it to your air compressor and simply remove the bolt. Do the opposite to install it. If you don't have a air compressor and impact wrench, shame on you for attempting repairs you are not equiped for.

Tom

That's the first thing I tried and it didn't work. <_< It just spun....

+1. I've always had to come up with a way to hold the damper rod/nut. I used the hex-nut-welded-to-a-bar trick for my Triumph, and it's the 'home repair tip' in the Hanes manual for that bike. They recommend grinding some flat spots on the opposite end from the nut so as to use an adjustible spanner to hold the rod still, but it works just fine.

 

[evil_henchman]

Scuse me mr. admin but this is not a completely off topic thread. Was it moved by mistake? :huh: