Dang it, changed my oil and broke my FJR.

[FargoFeej]

So embarassing. I have my bike for 5 days and I broke it already!

At 200 miles on my FJR I changed the oil. And no, I am NOT going to reveal the brand of filter and oil I used.

After getting it all done, I noticed a black tube hanging down near the oil drain plug. About 2 inches from its end it has a white line around it. For the life of me I cannot see any place where it attaches. Does it attach anywhere, or is it open to the air under the plastic? It seems to be important because now my "Shift - Orange Light" warning lights are on, meaning that the Chip Shift system has an error, and my FJR will not start. After turning on the key, the displays operate as normal, then the error lights come on, and the engine will not turn over. The neutral light is ON.

Any ideas on where that tube goes? And what in the world did I do during an oil change that would goof up the Chip Controlled Shift system?

(Did the aftermarket oil filter and the brand of oil I chose trigger a Yamaha sensor perhaps?)

Thanks in advance from a red-faced newb,

Richard

Later... It looks like the black tube comes from the coolant tank, and thus may be an overflow tube. *Sigh* Took off some of the plastic and checked the fluid level in YCC reservoir--it's near the top line.

 

[SkooterG]

There are several tubes that come out the bottom of the FJR - Coolant resevoir overflow, fuel tank overflow, fuel tank vent, and air box drain are the 4 than I can think of right now. None of those should be affected by an oil change, nor should your AE black magic be affected by anything either. Not being an AE ****** :lol: I am not real familiar with it's workings or errors, but are you sure it's not something simple like trying to operate it while it's on the centerstand or something?

 

[FJRBluesman]

SkooterG is probably right, although no one wants to admit it.

Pix help too.

 

[dustyrains]

I had a shift error on my 06 ae last year. I was able to do a work around and get it started: Be sure you are sitting on the bike, with the kickstand up, kill switch in the run position. Turn the key on as normal, let the needles sweep and return and let the shift error come on, then turn the key back off and on quickly, hitting the starter before the sweep finishes. This worked to get my bike running first thing in the morning. After the bike was warmed up, it stopped happening until the next morning trying to cold start it. I eventually had the clutch actuator replaced under my YES warranty. Hopes this works for you. What error code are you seeing?

 

[FargoFeej]

There is no number code shown, just the warning lights.

The bike is on the center stand, but I started it on the centerstand and ran it for a bit to warm the oil up before the trouble began. That is how the anemic owner's manual says to do it...

As I gazed at the bike just now, I remember that I did unhook what I thought was a ground cable above the oil filler cap to gain access. However, it is not a ground wire, but a fluid connection and and about 10cc (2 tsp) of fluid leaked out before I closed it up. It looked and smelled like brake fluid. That is why I later checked the YCC fluid level. But maybe the fluid loss from this area is the trouble. There is a bleeder on the top of this thing, so after work tonight I'll bleed it and hope that will fix the problem.

And, I gotta get me a real manual, pronto.

Richard

 

[wfooshee]

You 've got air in your clutch line and you'll have to bleed it. I have no clue what the process is on the auto-clutch system, but with air in the line, it can't release the clutch. That explains the non-start.

 

[dcarver]

Richard, good luck with this. BTW, I thinnk you've set the current record for 'earliest FJR kill by a new owner'! :lol:

 

[mferriter]

There is no number code shown, just the warning lights.
The bike is on the center stand, but I started it on the centerstand and ran it for a bit to warm the oil up before the trouble began. That is how the anemic owner's manual says to do it...

As I gazed at the bike just now, I remember that I did unhook what I thought was a ground cable above the oil filler cap to gain access. However, it is not a ground wire, but a fluid connection and and about 10cc (2 tsp) of fluid leaked out before I closed it up. It looked and smelled like brake fluid. That is why I later checked the YCC fluid level. But maybe the fluid loss from this area is the trouble. There is a bleeder on the top of this thing, so after work tonight I'll bleed it and hope that will fix the problem.

And, I gotta get me a real manual, pronto.

Richard

There are no hoses associated with an oil change - or at least there shouldn't be if you do it correctly. There are several overflow hoses that are supposed to be there as stated earlier.

By the way you will probably get an ABS warning light if you run it on the centerstand since the back wheel is spinning and the front is not. Freaked me out the first time I did that.

 

[Fred W]

Sounds like you disconnected the hydraulic line to the clutch slave cylinder.

That would have let the air into that line, which is what wfooshee is talking about.

Now you need to get the air back out.

According to the FSM this requires using a vacuum pump (MityVac, etc.) to purge the air from the slave bleeder.

Sounds like a trip to the shop on a trailer.

 

[FargoFeej]

...BTW, I thinnk you've set the current record for 'earliest FJR kill by a new owner'! :lol:

Sweet! Oh wait, that's not a good thing, at all.

 

[wheatonFJR]

Sorry about the buzzkill with your brand new bike. Atleast you were smart and asked Forum members how to make it right. There are some right decent people here who know stuff and are willing to help. :clapping:

Hope you get back on the road soon and the smile returns... :yahoo:

 

[cruppelt]

...BTW, I thinnk you've set the current record for 'earliest FJR kill by a new owner'! :lol:

Sweet! Oh wait, that's not a good thing, at all.

I just bought a MightyVac for $40 at my local car shop (Baxters) a few months ago, plus a full quart of fully synthetic DOT4 brake fluid (which is what goes into your clutch circuit as well) is only like $6.50.

It is much easier to do a full fluid change on this since you said you already lost a bunch of the fluid. Open up the reservior, it might already be empty, refill that, attach the MightyVac to the little fitting (that fitting is right were you took the hose off), pump a few times, crack the fitting open (I believe it's a #8 metric wrench you need to turn just a little, wait until you get some fluid out, refill the top reservoir with new fluid before it the fluid level disappears down into the hose (the location of the reservoir is in your owners manual on page 6-23), pump again, new fluid on top, pump again, new fluid on top, solid fluid coming out (when the fluid is old you'd see the difference between old and new fluid in color) , close the valve again tight, pull the MightyVac off, your done.

The most important thing is to keep the brake fluid of your bike, it will eat into the paint. Don't know how much of a DIY you are, the job is usually not too expensive at a decent dealer , but you'd have to get the bike there in the first place... Maybe you can find a friend (or a fellow forum member?) that could help you through your first fluid change in your garage?

 

[RadioHowie]

Richard, good luck with this. BTW, I thinnk you've set the current record for 'earliest FJR kill by a new owner'! :lol:

Can't......................breathe..................laughing.................too..........

........hard!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[FargoFeej]

All reet! I've had a MityVac for a few years, and have often used one at work, usually late at night in the presence of a panting, screaming woman. I stopped for a can of DOT-4, got home at 5:45pm, changed, found the cardboard and all the parts, took off the plastic and had the job done by 6:30pm, including installing a taller CalSci windscreen. Key ON, Error lights OFF! Whew.

Gear on and on the road for a test drive by 6:45, and this was the best ride so far. Maybe this is an important step in my relationship with this bike, a first step on the road to Becoming One, er, Becoming Ichi with it.

Thanks to all for the help. I am certain it will not be the last I ask for.

Richard

 

[Texan]

Just wondering what you do to the women with the mityvac to make them pant and scream. Perhaps a picture would clear up the confusion.

 

[FargoFeej]

The MityVac I have is the exact unit used in obstetrics, only they call it a "vacuum extractor" in the delivery room. (They can charge more calling it that). There is a special attachment that has a soft plastic dome for the baby's head, and a firm plastic handle for the doctor. I haven't seen this attachment at my FLAPS. The tubing and the attachment are kept sterile, and a nurse holds the MityVac out of the delivery field. When a contraction hits, she pumps it up to -20 or -30, and then doctor pulls a little and uses the cup attachment to guide the kid out. Usually works, and if it doesn't then there are other more expensive methods to use.

Oh yes, your question--well, if you need to use the vacuum extractor it means the gal is getting tired or the baby is a mite oversize, and she calls out, "WILL YOU F*#KING HURRY UP AND GET THAT KID OUT ******* IT!" and other words of encouragement.

I don't know which use came first, the baby pulling, or the brake bleeding, though I do know that brake fluid is tougher on paint than is amniotic fluid. And that bleeding brakes is less noisy.

Richard

 

[moto]

Mr. Lenzmeier ---- "you, Sir, have a great attitude!" And wise. For asking asking these fine folks in the forum for help. Best to you. Enjoy the ride.

 

[happyPuppy]

I agree it sounds like air in the line. the other thing to be aware of are the error codes, really helpful when they pop up. AE's like to run at 1100 -1150 RPM too. Below 1000 and they can throw codes for too low of an idle speed. The rubber tubes just need to hang down for drainage.

 

[dcarver]

Woot! Congrats on getting her screaming again!

The bike, the bike! :yahoo: