Datel vs Kuryakyn LED voltmeter

[FJR Rich]

I'm planning on buying a voltmeter/battery guage. I see a lot of chat regarding the Datel unit, but little about the LED types, e.g. Kuryakyn LED Battery Gauge. The Datel tells you the precise voltage, where as the Kury only tells you if the battery is in a bad or good range (ok, there are numbers on it, but you don't know the 1/10th value). One you cut out a hole in the fairing, while the other sticks(??) on.

Is it important to know the exact voltage or only if you're in a good range? Not criticizing, just curious.

Thanks,

Rich

 

[ionbeam]

Edit: Prequel -- I missed your location at first -- fellow southern NH rider.

The range of the Kuryakyn is 8 to 16 volts, the resolution is 12.5 to 14.5 volts. In the real world his equates to: 8 to 12.5 volts you are phucked; 12.5 to 14.5 you are anyplace between phucked and perfect; 14.5 volts and up you are phucked. If you have a dead stock bike meaning no electrofarkles then this is sufficient to let you know that you might get home but won't give you enough information to detect a failing charging system before things hit the shitter.

The crucial range (IMO) is from 12.8 volts to 14.9 volts with 0.1 volts resolution to fully understand how your electrical system is performing. DATEL exceeds this range and has the resolution, in fact 0.01 volts accuracy is really too much and you will have a flickering display. For roughly the same price I would get the dull, uninteresting red or blue meter display that provides useful information.

Given a little imagineering you should be able to find a way to install the DATEL without having to cut panels. Another option is to eBay a dash panel, they can be had from $20 -$40 so you can retain your stock panel should you want to revert back.

clickable pic



I dredged up this moldy oldie that I posted a long time ago and excerpted out the voltage readings:

...The Gen I stator & R/R system is rated to produce 35 amps at 14.0 volts at 5k rpm = 490 watts. Anything less than 5k rpm will produce less than 35 amps. A fixed power load that is acceptable at 5k rpm may overwhelm the charging system at 1k rpm (idle) because the stator's current output will be very low.

 

The battery would like to have a minimum of 13.2 volts to maintain a light trickle charge. Ideally, you would like to see the voltage at the battery terminals running 13.7 to 14.5 volts. In this sweet spot the stator is supplying sufficient current to maintain battery charge and sufficient power to run the electrical devices on the motorcycle without incurring an overheating condition.

 

When you see 12.8 volts at the battery terminals it indicates that the motorcycle's charging system has reached the end of its capability to supply sufficient current, and the battery is on the verge of supplying 'make-up' power. By 12.4 volts the charging circuit can no longer supply sufficient current, and the battery is starting to supply 'make-up' current and the battery is now slowly being discharged. The more significant event is that the stator is actually over-loaded and getting very hot, entering a zone where it can become permanently damaged.

 

With a good charging system, and a healthy, properly charged battery I would offer these guidelines for sustained voltages:

 

≤12.8 volts at the battery terminals – the charging system is over taxed, the battery is being discharged, and the stator is in danger of being permanently damaged.

 

12.8 to 13.2 volts – entering the danger zone, the battery is no longer being trickle charged and the stator is being taxed to the limits.

 

13.2 – 13.7 volts – undesirable but sustainable, the stator is taxed but the battery is being charged.

 

13.7 to 14.5 volts – schweet

 

15.0 and up -- the battery is being damaged a.k.a. cooked

 

12.7-12.8 volts – a good battery voltage when it is fully charged and disconnected from the motorcycle; measured at 70°F

 

[puppychow]

Listen to what ionbeam says!

Also, here is the similar but alternative to the Datel at half the price, which forum members have been using a while..

https://www.cyclemaxohio.com/inc/sdetail/4231

 

[karstenp]

I have used both the Kuryakyn and the Datel. I had Kuryakyns fail twice on me due to water ingress. The datel has survived many all day wet rides without issues.

 

[SkooterG]

Get the Datel. What good is a gauge that really isn't giving you the detailed information you really need.

As usualy, ionbeam nailed it.............

HOWEVER I do strongly disagree with his below statement:

in fact 0.01 volts accuracy is really too much and you will have a flickering display.

I started out with a .1 volt display and have switched to the .01 volts display. It doesn't flicker. I much prefer it. Most of the time, if you aren't running lots of farkles, your display will read in the 14.0 -14.3 range, with it usually reading a contstant number (14.1 for example). With the extra digit and degree of accuracy, I now know if that is a high, or low, 14.1. Also, I can see exactly the effect of adding small loads to the system. I highly recommend the .01 volts accuracy meter.

 

[TomInPA]

Although it's not one of the options you suggested, the Escort radar detector also has a volt meter function that lots of owners don't know about. Voltage is displayed in tenths and gives full information at all times the unit is running unless an alert is displayed. It also has a low voltage warning.

 

[ionbeam]

in fact 0.01 volts accuracy is really may be too much in some circumstances and you will may have a flickering display.

I started out with a .1 volt display and have switched to the .01 volts display. It doesn't flicker. I much prefer it. ...I highly recommend the .01 volts accuracy meter.

Amended with the note that your results may not match that of others.

 

[FJR Rich]

Ionbeam,

Thanks for the info. Sorry, I did forget to mention my electrical add-ons. I have the MotoLights and Garmin 2730. For cool weather riding I have heated grips and heated seat (Russel), used only as needed. For cold weather riding I have heated liner, pants and gloves (so grips and seat are turned off).

I'm in Amherst, NH. Hopefully this season I'll get the time to meet up with you and the other locals!

Rich

 

[TomInPA]

When you see 12.8 volts at the battery terminals it indicates that the motorcycle's charging system has reached the end of its capability to supply sufficient current, and the battery is on the verge of supplying 'make-up' power. By 12.4 volts the charging circuit can no longer supply sufficient current, and the battery is starting to supply 'make-up' current and the battery is now slowly being discharged. The more significant event is that the stator is actually over-loaded and getting very hot, entering a zone where it can become permanently damaged.

As I understand the charging system, the FJR has a stator and shunt-regulator/rectifier. Unlike an alternator or series controlled (blocking) stator, the FJR stator supplies its full output at all times. If the power is not used by accessories, it is shunted to ground by the switches in the R/R. If the power is all consumed by accessories and bike loads, the stator works no harder, you just enter a net discharge scenario. If you are running no accessories the net surplus power is shunted to ground which has no effect on the stator, but does create heat in the R/R and may increase heat in the stator.

What am I missing?

 

[SkooterG]

Although it's not one of the options you suggested, the Escort radar detector also has a volt meter function that lots of owners don't know about. Voltage is displayed in tenths and gives full information at all times the unit is running unless an alert is displayed. It also has a low voltage warning.

Good point, HOWEVER. (I'm good at the HOWEVER shit)

My passport was my only voltmeter for years. And then during the '07 IBR I had to remove it in Canada (Nova Scotia) since it was illegal and during a cold night while running heated vest on max and aux lights all the time, I ran my battery down resulting in a huge waste of valuable sleep time when at the next bonus location I had to spend 25 minutes attempting to push start the bike after the battery wouldn't.

Plus, a long time ago I documented that the Passport's voltmeter function is not the most accurate. It reads .2-.3 volts higher than the Datel. The Datel being the accurate meter.

 

[SkooterG]

Ionbeam,

Thanks for the info. Sorry, I did forget to mention my electrical add-ons. I have the MotoLights and Garmin 2730. For cool weather riding I have heated grips and heated seat (Russel), used only as needed. For cold weather riding I have heated liner, pants and gloves (so grips and seat are turned off).

I'm in Amherst, NH. Hopefully this season I'll get the time to meet up with you and the other locals!

Rich

With all that stuff you are using, you definitely want the accurate meter (Datel).

 

[FJR Rich]

Listen to what ionbeam says!

Also, here is the similar but alternative to the Datel at half the price, which forum members have been using a while..

https://www.cyclemaxohio.com/inc/sdetail/4231

Thanks for the link. Pretty much looks like the Datel too. I'll have to search for any quality issue.

Rich

 

[Ignacio]

I ran my battery down resulting in a huge waste of valuable sleep time when at the next bonus location I had to spend 25 minutes attempting to push start the bike after the battery wouldn't.

I can attest to how twitterpated this makes him....he yammered for a good 20 minutes about before we finally got to sleep in Campbellton.

Ditto on the Datel. Just bought a second one for my second FJR...went with the 0.1 variety myself but 0.01 would be fine too.

 

[FJR Rich]

I have used both the Kuryakyn and the Datel. I had Kuryakyns fail twice on me due to water ingress. The datel has survived many all day wet rides without issues.

Interesting. I thought they were waterproof/resistant. Good to know as I do get caught in rain sometimes. Thanks!

Rich

 

[lnewlf]

My Escort hunts around so fast that it is hard to read-also not that accurate..Datel is the Mutz Nutz..There is just enough room to stick the Datel on the right side of the steering head next to the steering stop with mounting tape. It is inconspicious there, easy to read, close to the batt. and no cutting.

 

[FJR Rich]

Although it's not one of the options you suggested, the Escort radar detector also has a volt meter function that lots of owners don't know about. Voltage is displayed in tenths and gives full information at all times the unit is running unless an alert is displayed. It also has a low voltage warning.

Thanks Tom. I don't have a radar detector, but it's interesting to see a voltmeter in one.

Rich

 

[FJR Rich]

My Escort hunts around so fast that it is hard to read-also not that accurate..Datel is the Mutz Nutz..There is just enough room to stick the Datel on the right side of the steering head next to the steering stop with mounting tape. It is inconspicious there, easy to read, close to the batt. and no cutting.

Thanks! I'll check it out.

Rich

 

[FJR Rich]

Ionbeam,

Thanks for the info. Sorry, I did forget to mention my electrical add-ons. I have the MotoLights and Garmin 2730. For cool weather riding I have heated grips and heated seat (Russel), used only as needed. For cold weather riding I have heated liner, pants and gloves (so grips and seat are turned off).

I'm in Amherst, NH. Hopefully this season I'll get the time to meet up with you and the other locals!

Rich

With all that stuff you are using, you definitely want the accurate meter (Datel).

Thanks SkooterG! Now it's a choice between the Cyclemaxohio and Datel.

Rich

 

[FJR Rich]

I ran my battery down resulting in a huge waste of valuable sleep time when at the next bonus location I had to spend 25 minutes attempting to push start the bike after the battery wouldn't.

I can attest to how twitterpated this makes him....he yammered for a good 20 minutes about before we finally got to sleep in Campbellton.

Ditto on the Datel. Just bought a second one for my second FJR...went with the 0.1 variety myself but 0.01 would be fine too.

Thanks Ignacio! I'm starting to think about the 0.01 version.

Rich