Dead battery question

[07fjrTom]

So I go out after work last night to start my 07' and when I turn the key I get zilch. When I checked the battery, the meter reads 4 volts. I rode it to work in the morning and it started and ran fine. It rained all the way to work, I didn't leave any accesories on, and the battery is 3 yrs old. I got a jump start from a co-worker, and the bike will run as long as the cables are attached, but dies as soon as I remove the jumpers. I believe that I just need a new battery.

Anyone think it could be something more sinister? If so, what?

Thanks for any insights you may have,

Tom

 

[phroenips]

I had similar problems with a recent car battery. The dealer mechanic told me that's how modern automotive batteries are. They will just suddenly fail, and may intermittently allow the vehicle to start.

I got a new battery, and all was fine after that.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

So I go out after work last night to start my 07' and when I turn the key I get zilch. When I checked the battery, the meter reads 4 volts. Thanks for any insights you may have

You may be able to (properly) charge your battery and check it's condition with your meter -- or, have it done at a qualified shop? Battery condition (at least "go - no go") is pretty easy to determine.

But, if this condition exists?:

I believe that I just need a new battery.

No further diagnostics need apply... :huh:

 

[ionbeam]

...I got a jump start from a co-worker, and the bike will run as long as the cables are attached, but dies as soon as I remove the jumpers...

This part concerns me, your motorcycle should still run. There is a chance that your problem is shorted cells in the battery which is dragging down the stator; 4.0 to 4.2 volts on the battery would be correct for shorted cells. There is also a chance that you have an external power draw knocking down the voltage and limiting the stator output -- this would be a Bad Thing to let happen to your stator.

Disconnect the battery entirely from your FJR, put it on a charger, and let it charge over night. If your battery has <10 volts a tender or trickle charger may not charge your battery. Confirm that your charger is supplying 13.2 to 14.5 volts to the battery. The next morning remove the charger and immediately measure the battery voltage, no matter what you should see >12.8 volts. Let the battery sit for ~30 minutes and measure again, no matter what you should see 12.6 volts or more. Failure to meet either or both of these conditions points to a bad battery.

 

[C&C]

Four volts, and will not run on its own equals physical internal battery failure. Time for a new battery.

 

[Bounce]

SBD has been a problem with Yuassa batteries in Gold Wings since at least the days of the GL1200 (1984). It's running fine. Turn off the bike to get gas. Turn it on and >click< nothing...

That's what started me swapping batteries at 2 to 2.5 years no matter what. That way I could look for a sale and buy according to my budget instead as an emergency. I pushed it to 3+ on the FJR and others have pushed farther. But know your risks going in.

 

[Lowcountry Joe]

What C&C said

 

[07fjrTom]

Thanks to all of you who responded. I have ordered a new battery and will ride the beemer for a couple of days until it shows up. I have had this type of failure before on other bikes and am glad to have a spare ride. I have only had this bike for a couple of months and am really happy to have a support group like this.

 

[james1300]

Thanks to all of you who responded. I have ordered a new battery and will ride the beemer for a couple of days until it shows up. I have had this type of failure before on other bikes and am glad to have a spare ride. I have only had this bike for a couple of months and am really happy to have a support group like this.

Which battery did you order and from where?

I'm having trouble locating a Yuasa YT14B-BS 210 cca

 

[03HiYoSilver]

I just got the Yuasa and one of their distributors is PartsUnlimited.

 

[Tanhands]

I just did a Battery last week. It was time but I don't think it was the ultimate problem. I bought locally at Batteries Plus. Less then $80 after mail in rebate(which you don't mail in you just go to their web site and then wait for it).

 

[james1300]

I just got the Yuasa and one of their distributors is PartsUnlimited.

Did you get the Yuasa YB14B-BS 210cca? Cost?

 

[james1300]

I just did a Battery last week. It was time but I don't think it was the ultimate problem. I bought locally at Batteries Plus. Less then $80 after mail in rebate(which you don't mail in you just go to their web site and then wait for it).

My Batteries+ is outta stock, what part no. did you use?

What is the cold cranking amp?

 

[03HiYoSilver]

I just got the Yuasa and one of their distributors is PartsUnlimited.

Did you get the Yuasa YB14B-BS 210cca? Cost?

Yes, I got it from one of their distibutors/local Bike shop for $150.

Did not feel like getting a Cheap KnockOff from who knows where.

 

[Tanhands]

I just got the Yuasa and one of their distributors is PartsUnlimited.

Did you get the Yuasa YB14B-BS 210cca? Cost?

Yes, I got it from one of their distibutors/local Bike shop for $150.

Did not feel like getting a Cheap KnockOff from who knows where.

What is a Cheap Knock off? Do you mean anything that does not cost as much as the dealer wants? So like if you found the same battery for half the price then that would be a cheap knock off?

Just wasn't sure. If that is the point why not just buy from the dealer. My dealer here would have sold the same stock battery to me for $139. That's $11 less. Should I be concerned about Cheap Knock offs?

 

[Tanhands]

I just did a Battery last week. It was time but I don't think it was the ultimate problem. I bought locally at Batteries Plus. Less then $80 after mail in rebate(which you don't mail in you just go to their web site and then wait for it).

My Batteries+ is outta stock, what part no. did you use?

What is the cold cranking amp?

James I used Part number XTA14B-4 The CCA is 130. Bin O Facts calls for a CCA of 135. This is not a big deal unless you are going to park your bike outside in Jan in Denver. I live in Phoenix.

Dealer wanted $135 plus tax (and IMHO was a jerk, talked bad about other dealers and said he had that best price around). Batt Plus had it for $82 plus tax with a $5 mail in rebate. Or $79 plus $12 shipping if you order. Still has the rebate either way.

 

[james1300]

I just did a Battery last week. It was time but I don't think it was the ultimate problem. I bought locally at Batteries Plus. Less then $80 after mail in rebate(which you don't mail in you just go to their web site and then wait for it).

My Batteries+ is outta stock, what part no. did you use?

What is the cold cranking amp?

James I used Part number XTA14B-4 The CCA is 130. Bin O Facts calls for a CCA of 135. This is not a big deal unless you are going to park your bike outside in Jan in Denver. I live in Phoenix.

Dealer wanted $135 plus tax (and IMHO was a jerk, talked bad about other dealers and said he had that best price around). Batt Plus had it for $82 plus tax with a $5 mail in rebate. Or $79 plus $12 shipping if you order. Still has the rebate either way.

Thanks for the help!

I found a genuine Yuasa at www.FJRGoodies.com for $125.00