Dealers no longer supporting?

[Bappo]

It seems my local dealers (service) will no longer service bikes over 10 years old, due to no parts being supplied.

I have a 2008 AE and am not either set up nor inclined to do other than basic maintenance and my bike can sure use it. Let it sit too long, removed old gas, refilled with real gas and a can of seafoam hoping that will work. Running rough. Also sticky front brakes.

Oh well.

 

[RossKean]

It seems my local dealers (service) will no longer service bikes over 10 years old, due to no parts being supplied.

I have a 2008 AE and am not either set up nor inclined to do other than basic maintenance and my bike can sure use it. Let it sit too long, removed old gas, refilled with real gas and a can of seafoam hoping that will work. Running rough. Also sticky front brakes.

Oh well.

Except for the "AE" bits, most of the parts in your '08 are the same as Gen II from 2006 up to 2012. If your dealer can't (or won't) help and you don't wish to tackle it yourself, there are lots of independent shops capable of doing good work on many different brands. Trick is finding someone good. Might even be able to find a local FJR owner willing to help for pizza and beer.
Most issues don't require major investment in parts...
Good luck.

 

[dcarver]

If so true, Yamaha has gone the way of BMW. Can't even buy new BMS FSM's any more... which also hurts the independent shops.

 

[infrared]

Bappo,

Hang tough. Seafoam is magic stuff, but it is not instant magic. Run the full can (mixed per label specs) through the tank, before you decide something needs fixing. It may take a few days, and sometimes a second can, but it might be all you need.

How do the spark plugs look? How many miles on them?

What does "sticky front brakes" mean? Not releasing, hard to apply, grabby? If grabby, a can of brake cleaner (for the rotors), paper towels, and maybe new brake pads might do the job.

Keep us posted.

 

[Bappo]

Thanks for putting this in the correct section.

I'll give the seafoam time.

Front brake rotors were warm to touch just on a short ride not using them. You could feel the pads grabbing the rotors when I spun the front wheel by hand. Squirted with PB blast. Hope it works.

I mentioned to service dude about parts being same as newer his answer was, nada. Yamaha/dealer policy.

I'm in between okeechobee and sebring florida. Not so many resources available.

Thanks for all the help so far.

Bappo

 

[Diablo1]

This isn’t a Yamaha policy. This is your local dealer’s policy. Call them up and tell the owner that if his policy is to not service older bikes, then your policy is to never do business there again. Ask him if this is how he’d like his business represented on Facebook.

 

[user 90243]

My local Kawasaki shop is staffed with mechanics holding service certificates from several Factories. Actual Yamaha dealers are not nearby. The Kaw shop actually stocks commonly needed items (fork seals, bushings). Performed valve check. They install my new Michelins every year. I count myself very lucky to have these guys and gals right here in my hometown. Ask around, talk to people, I hope you can find a resource you can trust.

 

[RossKean]

Squirted with PB blast. Hope it works.

Don't think I would use that on brakes...
As far as brake stuff is concerned, there is nothing magical about Yamaha FJR brakes and any competent independent shop should be able to help if you are not up to tackling it yourself. (Brakes are pretty easy.)

Your brake fluid probably needs to be flushed (along with clutch and rear brake) if it hasn't been done in the last couple of years. General cleaning and lubrication of slider pins and clean (no lube) sides of pistons and retaining clips. Check pads for remaining "meat" and replace as needed. Keep hydrocarbon-based lubricants away from pads and seals! (Clean and lube pivots in brake and clutch levers and rear brake pivot - oops, I just realized you have the "AE" so no clutch lever but flushing clutch circuit is more complicated.)

Note: SOME minor amount of drag is normal but should be minimal. There is nothing to pull the pads back from the rotors so they remain very close to rotors after brakes are released. With dirty pistons, seals and sliders, they may remain in closer contact causing excessive pad wear and warming up of rotors.

Edit: If you don't want to dig into the running issues yourself, let the Seafoam do its thing and see where you are. (Yamaha Ringfree is good too). There are a number of issues that could be the problem but no point in getting into this discussion right now if you are not planning to troubleshoot and fix by yourself. You should, however, get a flashlight and check the interior of the tank for evidence of rust or dirt...

 

[RossKean]

Front brake rotors were warm to touch just on a short ride not using them. You could feel the pads grabbing the rotors when I spun the front wheel by hand.

Note: The right front rotor will get warm from using the rear brake. As part of the linked braking system, the lower right pair of pistons is actuated with the rear brake pedal. (The upper brake piston pair in the right caliper are actuated with the front brake lever.) Of course, both piston pairs in the left caliper are actuated with the front brake lever.

 

[torch]

It seems my local dealers (service) will no longer service bikes over 10 years old, due to no parts being supplied.

This is nothing new. Dealers have been refusing to service older machines since the first bike was 10 years old.

Older fasteners tend to seize, electrical connectors corrode, parts wear out. Then the customer complains the repair took longer than the "book" estimate or that the extra work was "unnecessary" or abandon the bike when the repair bill exceeds the value of the bike.

Of course a real potential minefield is if the old part that breaks while disassembling something else does happen to be something that is no longer available, then the excrement really encounters the air conditioning and the dealer may face a lawsuit.

The good news is the parts department will happily sell you any parts that are still available. The bad news is you have to put them on yourself. The really good news is you get to learn more about your bike and are better prepared if it breaks down on the road.

 

[Wingman]

It sounds like you may need to disassemble the front caliper and clean up any accumulation of gunk and corrosion. Make sure you do a brake system flush including actuation of the abs system.

I neglected mine and had to replace the abs module as a result. The rear brake on my 07 locked up completely and the only way to release it was to open the bleeder on the rear brake caliper. There was a lot of corrosion inside the abs module and inside the banjo fittings and bolts on the rear brake line. I was able to rebuild the caliper and found a used abs module on eBay for way less than a new one.

All this probably could have been avoided by changing out the fluid every few years or so.