Dealership hosed up rear wheel rim

[KSFJR]

Smitty141, FJRocket, and myself all got one of the NOMAR tire changers. This is the first time that I changed a tubeless tire and it went well. I did have trouble getting the factory tires off as they were stiff as hell. Once that was done it went pretty well.

I have never used any other tire changer so I can't compare this changer to others but it did work well. I did have the luxury of watching Smitty change a set of tires for GalaxyBlue before I did mine and he is quite efficient with the changer.

I think that it would be difficult to damage your rim with this setup.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...hl=tire+changer

 

[rogerfjrfaster]

F1fan

My rideing partner and I bought one of the Harbour Freight machines and a static balancer from Marc Parnes on the old ez board which works great two tires changes about payed for it then he did some sport bike and it was done. The balancer sits on to jack stands then just spin the tires , he sells the stick on weights as well. Well made piece of equipment. [email protected].

rogerfjrfaster

 

[markjenn]

A 14" steel car rim from a junkyard (free), some old garden hose split and wrapped around the car rim (free),

and a Metzeler tire balancer ($115)

If you want to go fancy, Harbor Freight has a workable machine for about $90 and some folks are selling a knock-off of the Coates 220 that is probably better than what your dealer uses for about $450.

Thanks for the feedback. I am having a hard time visualizing how to use the 14" car rim as a tire changer but I guess it holds the rim somehow.

Do you know where can I buy the Metzleer tire balancer?

I have looked at the HF changer and was less than impressed with the quality. One of my friends bought one and he couldn't get his to hold the rim securely enough to change anything. The Coats 220 knock-off sounds promising, do you who is selling it?

This is one the best guides to home-brew tire changing and shows how to use a junk steel wheel to hold the mc wheel which works very well:

https://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing-doc.html#5

There are lots of different options for balancer stands and you can build yourself or buy commercially. I'd probably go the Marc Parnes route today, but this is about like the one I have:

https://www.phatperformanceparts.com/mercha...ct_Code=99-4860

The previously mentioned thread discussed the Coates knock-off changer.

- Mark

 

[MCRIDER007]

This is one the best guides to home-brew tire changing and shows how to use a junk steel wheel to hold the mc wheel which works very well:
https://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing-doc.html#5

There are lots of different options for balancer stands and you can build yourself or buy commercially.  I'd probably go the Marc Parnes route today, but this is about like the one I have:

https://www.phatperformanceparts.com/mercha...ct_Code=99-4860

The previously mentioned thread discussed the Coates knock-off changer.

- Mark

Mark, thanks again for the feedback and the "how to" links but I seem to have a reading deficiency today because I cannot find the reference to the Coats 220 knockoff changer. Can you be more specific where to find it?

Thanks!

 

[f1fan]

Mark,

thanks for the links on the how-to and the info on the home made tire changer. I think this, or a bought unit, is the ticket for the next time.

Ingo

 

[markjenn]

Gentlemen, I was talking abou tthe NoMar when I said a "Coates knockoff". It has been discussed in a thread that is linked by a previouis post to this thread, or you can go to their site here.

https://www.nomartirechanger.com/

If I was buying one today, I'd get this one. I'm not big on the Harbor Freight model, which is flimsy enough that I don't think you gain much over doing car-wheel/tire-iron method.

The issue with the Coates (which is a fine changer) and the NoMar is that they're a big piece of furniture in one's garage. I don't have the room, so I stick to the steel car wheel method and tire irons, which I can keep on a shelf, drag out, and bolt it to my workbench. The machines are somewhat easier, but not tremendously so. To really make it easy you need a penumatic machine, but these get into the $3K+ range.

- Mark

 

[yamahlr]

I wouldn't be afraid if the dealership uses a QUALITY firm for the wheel repair. I have a friend that is the co-owner of the Wheel Collision Center in PA. I met him when I chunked a piece out of you custom Riken wheel for my pickup. Riken no longer sells rims in the U.S. so replacement wasn't an option. I did a story for the mag I work for on repairing my rim.Watched the repair it step by step. He did an outstanding job. I don't know if he does m/c rims but will call him if you'd like. Work first rate, painting/powder coating is excellent. Only rim he said he can't repair is a magnesium rim. He did offer me a magnesium Vette rim as a paperweight though...

 

[MCRIDER007]

The issue with the Coates (which is a fine changer) and the NoMar is that they're a big piece of furniture in one's garage.  I don't have the room, so I stick to the steel car wheel method and tire irons, which I can keep on a shelf, drag out, and bolt it to my workbench.  The machines are somewhat easier, but not tremendously so. 

Thanks again Mark. Its hard to believe that anyone could change a tubeless tire with the setup you have and not damage the rims in the process but if it works for you than you also must be very good at it. I don't think it would work for me since I can barely change a tire with a Coates 220 but it would be interesting to watch you do it sometime.

 

[BobbyBlue]

This happened to me also at Alamo Cycleplex here in San Antonio, a multiple line dealer. They still suck and I disrespect them everytime I can....like now !!

Bobby

 

[JREW]

I have looked at the HF changer and was less than impressed with the quality.  One of my friends bought one and he couldn't get his to hold the rim securely enough to change anything.

I bought the Harbor Freight setup and it does work. The clamps for the motorcycle tires come assembled back-words, but once you turn the clamps around they work great. The top piece and bar are not very useful, I went back to my dirt bike tire irons and had no issues. Also, forget buying rim savers (the ones I bought self destructed in no time) just cut a oil bottle into two pieces, zip tie them together and you are done. Very strong and free.

 

[f1fan]

UPDATE:

I talked to the dealership manager today to give him the tip on Gary at University Motors. He told me that it was taken care of already and that he told his guys to order a new rim. I told him that I was very pleased with that decision and I appreciated his actions very much.

I then told him that when he gets the rim, that I would change out the rotor, bearings, etc. from the old rim to the new one, myself and that he doesn't need to do that. He then said that it won't be necessary since he ordered the complete assembly (apparently with rotor and everything). At that point I really didn't know what to say anymore other than to thank him for seriously going the extra mile.

No, no he said we messed up and we will make it right. He went on to tell me that he talked to the techs in his shop and said that it was a mistake when they changed the tire and that it could have been prevented. The techs are now instructed to pay attention when they do this job. He never said what happened but I figure they forgot to use the rim protectors on the machine. Everybody in that dealership is probably also instructed not to do anymore work for me.

In the end, I have to say that this dealership (after the manager got involved) did go the extra mile to make it right. Now I just got to wait and leave my currently one-legged companion in the garage.

Btw, while I had the wheel of I did take the pumpkin apart to look at the spline lubrication. When I first took the wheel of, I saw that both the driving and the driven spline had plenty of lube (after 5300 miles). On the other hand, the spline that hooks up to the U-joint had very minimal lubrication. So I cleaned everything and applied some Moly paste to the spline and some synthetic grease to the actual shaft and then put it back together.

 

[Parachutist]

For a tire changer that works for bikes at $ 388 and carries a 2 year warranty check out www.wikco.biz

 

[markjenn]

The issue with the Coates (which is a fine changer) and the NoMar is that they're a big piece of furniture in one's garage.  I don't have the room, so I stick to the steel car wheel method and tire irons, which I can keep on a shelf, drag out, and bolt it to my workbench.  The machines are somewhat easier, but not tremendously so. 

Thanks again Mark. Its hard to believe that anyone could change a tubeless tire with the setup you have and not damage the rims in the process but if it works for you than you also must be very good at it. I don't think it would work for me since I can barely change a tire with a Coates 220 but it would be interesting to watch you do it sometime.

I do use rim protectors. I lost my original custom ones and now I just cut up plastic bottles.

Probably the biggest mistake people make is making sure you keep the tire beed opposite the bead you're levering deep in the center of the tire. Some tires you really have to work at it - they want to ride up onto the seating surface and that's when you have to apply unreasonable force to lever the tire on.

That and the right tire irons, 16" preferrably. I can do a tire with 10 inch irons, but it is a lot more work. The Motion Pro 16" irons are superb.

It's not absolutely perfect and I do add a small paint chip or nick to the rim on occasion, but so do all the rocks that are flying around down there all the time, so I have reasonable expectations.

- Mark

 

[ducatijohn]

I change & balance all my own bike tires (tubeless to stiff carcass dirt bike knobbies) and I only use 3 gooseneck tire irons with no rim protectors & have never scratched a rim yet, after about 60 changes. I have found the best way to break a really stubborn bead is to pour a water/soap solution onto the rim between the rim & tire bead & just work the bead with your tire iron. In about 10 minutes, enough of the water/soap solution will settle between the bead & rim that the bead will pop off with a slight pressure of the tire irons. Also, to make the sidewalls more flexible, place your tire on top of a hot car engine to heat up the carcass before tire removal.

John in N.C.