Details and questions

[Where is Bob L]

I am not trying to start an oil thread here. Please either answer with facts or ignore this post.

I am in need of a new bike. I am in need of a new bike. The FJR and ST1300 are two at the top of the list. I know they are both great bikes as well as some others on my list. I am trying to get all the facts before I take the plunge. I have looked around this site and others, but it is hard to filter the info from the BS, plus everything is very subjective. So here are some questions I would like either factual answers to, or links to posts that would help. Understand that I have been riding Harleys for years, as well as having owned an OilHead BMW, a KLR and a Buell and a few others plus worked on other bikes of various kinds. I do pretty much all my own work. I also put a lot of miles on my bikes. These questions are in no way bike bashing. I realize you can get more than 100k miles out of these bikes generally, but with any bike, there are things to consider. Just trying to get ALL the facts I can to help me decide.

One of the things I find is that even riders who put on a lot of miles will tell you they do nothing but change the tires and oil. They never mention any of the other services. For example, the Gold Wings need a valve check every 32,000 miles to the tune of $600 - $800 at a dealer. That isn't a service, that is a major repair in my book. So....

How expensive is it generally to check the valves?

Is this a difficult thing?

How long does it generally take?

Any special tools?

How expensive is it generally to adjust the valves?

Is this a difficult thing?

How long does it generally take?

Any special tools?

Are stators/generators/volt regulators an issue?

How long do they normally last?

Is this a difficult thing to change?

How long does it generally take?

Any special tools?

How long do shocks tend to last?

Are the stock ones reasonably priced? Worth it?

How soon does the top end normally need to be touched up?

How expensive is a top end job normally?

again, easy to do, special tools etc.

How much for a complete head/heads and all the parts to just change them out?

Any problems with the final drive or trany?

Any additional maintenance recommended above and beyond the factory recommended?

Any other things that tend to wear out in 100k miles? 200k miles?

Any other problems that are known, (or imagined).

Anything I should look for, look out for buying used?

Preferred years/models?

anything else you can think of?

 

[Knifemaker]

Wow...that is alot of questions. As for the FJR....

Rather than go to each one, I will say to do anything to the valves costs very little if you do the work yourself, and I think no special tools are needed, provided you have the normal 4 or 500 or so most that do their own work own.

Startors are easy to change, and seem to last fairly long compared to other models. But things can go wrong at anytime...

I think generaly compared to most bikes the FJR is cheap to maintain, but I will let those who care to go over the other long term issues who can speak from experiance chime in , as I have a low milage bike.

 

[DonRed7]

You are way over thinking this dude...

Sorry that all i can say after almost 3 riding seasons and bout' 36,000 Canadian KLM's is that after 3 years i still find myself looking back at the bitch as i'm turning off the shop lights and mumbling,....."Man what a fucking Machine" with a stupid grin.

And you really need to spend the time here,... rooting the info out that you need to make this decision and not expect a 5 page report handed in by people who are generally very impressed with their ride.

Cheers

-Don

 

[GPRIDER]

Bin o facts? Sounds like a good place to start. Just do a little searching and you will find all that info and more.

GP

 

[RsvlFeej]

Can only answer a few of these. Stock rear shock is garbage if you weigh more than about 150#. Only two adjustments and they wear out fast (~25K miles). Front suspenders adjust 3 ways and can be lived with, although aftermarket can improve front end feel and alleviate all wallowing.

Valve checks are scheduled every 26.6K miles

Only known issue w/ final drive is one seal tends to go out on the rear wheel. You get some warning from oil on the rim but nothing catastrophic happens that I've heard of.

Cam chain tensioner is good for maybe 50K miles. 2 or 3 known engine failures from bad CCTs

Gen II ('06 - '09) may have electrical issues. Bad grounding plug can leave you stranded. So can a bad ignition switch (recall item).

Gen I ('03 - '05) have crappy valve guides on about 15% of the bikes (85% have NO valve guide issue). These 15% are known as 'tickers' but can be ridden many, many miles.

Some Gen Is are thought to be intolerably hot, esp. when riding in warm weather. Mine is not.

Gen IIs have adjustable seat height and handlebars, Gen Is do not

Gen IIs have interlocked ABS brakes. Gen Is do not.

Some Gen Is do not have ABS, some do - if you're looking used, it's good for about a $1K difference.

 

[FJRBluesman]

Google is your friend.

You have way too many questions. A simple but extensive search will get you more data then you'll know what to do with, but it will answer or shed mucho light on your questions.

Search this way...

<your question site:fjrforum.com>

Enjoy.

 

[Where is Bob L]

Can only answer a few of these.

Thanks for answering these questions. Nice to hear from someone with real answers. Searching a site like this brings way to much crud and getting a fairly straight forward answer is most appreciated, especially from someone who has not drank the KoolAide.

Thanks again.

 

[boomerang]

Thats funny and it makes me feel alot better about myself because,I still do that also. Every time I leave the shop I give her one last glance.I don't think I have ever gone for a ride and didn't think at least once,DAMN, I LOVE THIS BIKE.

You are way over thinking this dude...
Sorry that all i can say after almost 3 riding seasons and bout' 36,000 Canadian KLM's is that after 3 years i still find myself looking back at the bitch as i'm turning off the shop lights and mumbling,....."Man what a fucking Machine" with a stupid grin.

And you really need to spend the time here,... rooting the info out that you need to make this decision and not expect a 5 page report handed in by people who are generally very impressed with their ride.

Cheers

-Don

 

[johnny80s]

Google is your friend.
You have way too many questions. A simple but extensive search will get you more data thern you'll know what to do with, but it will answer or shed mucho light on your questions.

Search this way...

<your question site:fjrforum.com>

Enjoy.

What he said.

 

[madmike2]

Patrick answered most of your questions.

Just trying to get ALL the facts I can to help me decide.
One of the things I find is that even riders who put on a lot of miles will tell you they do nothing but change the tires and oil. They never mention any of the other services. For example, the Gold Wings need a valve check every 32,000 miles to the tune of $600 - $800 at a dealer. That isn't a service, that is a major repair in my book. So....

How expensive is it generally to check the valves?

Is this a difficult thing?

How long does it generally take?

Any special tools?

I take mine to a trusted shop. IIRC, the last adjustment was $300-400 and took 2 days. I do not consider myself qualified to do this particular job.

Are stators/generators/volt regulators an issue?How long do they normally last?

Is this a difficult thing to change?

How long does it generally take?

Any special tools?

Not a serious issue though there have been failures. Hand tools and an impact driver will do this job.

How long do shocks tend to last?Are the stock ones reasonably priced? Worth it?

Rsvlefeeg said it. 25K and replace. For the money, buy aftermarket that is adjustable. Fork springs are another easy upgrade when the time comes.

How soon does the top end normally need to be touched up?How expensive is a top end job normally?

again, easy to do, special tools etc.

How much for a complete head/heads and all the parts to just change them out?

Beyond those who have lost their engines due to CCT issues (3 or 4), others have multiple 10's of thousands without touching the top end. There are a couple on the forum who are over 100K (I'm at 62K).

Any problems with the final drive or trany?
Any additional maintenance recommended above and beyond the factory recommended?

Any other things that tend to wear out in 100k miles? 200k miles?

Any other problems that are known, (or imagined).

Anything I should look for, look out for buying used?

Preferred years/models?

Small percentage of problems with final drive seals. Very small. Using Google: final drive leak site:fjrforum.com
Grease the drive shaft. Grease the rear swing arm pivots.

Tires wear out. Quickly if you ride aggressively. Some replace the steering head bearings with a tapered set.

Nope.

The FJR is rather bullet proof. Beware a "ticker" if Gen I.

Preferred years? I'd look for a Gen II ('06 and newer. Better heat management and air flow from the larger radiator and better designed fairing. Read the FJR Model Comparison available from the FAQ pages on Gen I & Gen II models.

Interesting maintenance websites:

https://www.fjrtech.com/

https://www.fjr-tips.org/

https://www.fjr1300.info/

Good luck with your decision and shopping.

anything else you can think of?

Nope....I think you've gotten most of the answers you need.
Resistance is futile....you will be assimilated.

 

[Hudson]

Just a quick note: you won't get very far on the forum without some effort on your own end. If you use Google, end your search query with :fjrforum and it will help you separate the relevant from the irrelevant info on this forum.

It sounds like you ride your bikes for a long time, and are concerned about the long term cost of ownership. I think most of the folks here would agree that:

1. The FJR is probably one, if not the, most reliable bikes of its type.

2. Regular fluid changes (4K or less oil and final drive), semi regular lube of the shaft/spline (10k or less), careful selection of model year (Gen II cures most of the faults), and willingness to farkle a little will get you an unbeatable machine.

The electrical issues seem to be confined to the ignition switch (which is corrected under factory recall) and potentially minimized or eliminated thereafter with an easy farkle taking 15 minutes to install and less than $60. Brodie, a forum member, sells the fix directly.

The ST1300 and C14 are both solid bikes with their own strong fan clubs. They do things slightly differently, and both are probably nearly as reliable. I think the FJR is an easy choice when you factor in the cost, the support network online and locally, and the ability to handle many chores yourself.

But if you choose the FJR, gonna have to get used to the ribbing on this forum, a general unwillingness to spoon feed you info, and an extreme willingness to fill your plate with opinions, bullshit, and if you're lucky, relevant facts (except on Fridays). I know this because my first few posts read like yours.

It's part of the attraction, actually. Really, I love all you guys now that I know you. Except Bustanut. He's kind of a shitheel :dance:

 

[Where is Bob L]

But if you choose the FJR, gonna have to get used to the ribbing on this forum, a general unwillingness to spoon feed you info, and an extreme willingness to fill your plate with opinions, bullshit, and if you're lucky, relevant facts (except on Fridays). I know this because my first few posts read like yours.

I suppose that is better than way back when I owned a BMW and was verbally (textually?) assaulted if I even hinted that there might be a problem with anything related to BMW.

I am an engineer. I see only two proper responses to a question. 1) Here are the facts. and 2) I don't know. And on the Mis-Information net, there is no reason to respond if you don't know.

Of course, that is not the real world. I can live with that, as long as people don't lie to me. BS is fine, that can be filtered.

I had actually assumed this subject would have been discussed before and I would be sent to just a couple of posts. I am always amazed at how much information, and mis-information there is on forums, and just how hard it is to actually extract and filter this information.

 

[JuiceMcGoose]

"Are stators/generators/volt regulators an issue?"

No. On the Triumph site it is common practice to install the FJR voltage regulator on the new Triumphs. If you overload the alternator it will evenualy die which is true of any alternator, otherwise very reliable.

Many Police dept's that once used ST1300's don't anymore due to high speed wobble.

The heat coming off my 1'st gen doesn't bother me at all.

 

[Frushlorton]

But if you choose the FJR, gonna have to get used to the ribbing on this forum, a general unwillingness to spoon feed you info, and an extreme willingness to fill your plate with opinions, bullshit, and if you're lucky, relevant facts (except on Fridays). I know this because my first few posts read like yours.

I suppose that is better than way back when I owned a BMW and was verbally (textually?) assaulted if I even hinted that there might be a problem with anything related to BMW.

I am an engineer. I see only two proper responses to a question. 1) Here are the facts. and 2) I don't know. And on the Mis-Information net, there is no reason to respond if you don't know.

Of course, that is not the real world. I can live with that, as long as people don't lie to me. BS is fine, that can be filtered.

I had actually assumed this subject would have been discussed before and I would be sent to just a couple of posts. I am always amazed at how much information, and mis-information there is on forums, and just how hard it is to actually extract and filter this information.

You state you are an engineer. It has been my experience that someone like me, a manager, who goes to an engineer and ask for all the "facts" to make a command decision based off of thier work and research without looking at the reports and product they have put out to me in the past causes huge attitude problems. They get thier white socks all in a tizzy. Suddenly I find them wearing ill fitting sport coats and attending job fairs and I am posting an open position.

This is the real world where on an FJR forum you find people who enjoy thier machines, enjoy discussing them, and bust each others nuts from time to time. No one is getting paid or receiving endorsements to provide you or I w/ just the facts and not lie. This is the internet and we all take a risk that you will get mis-information. Just last week I decided off of this info to use Rottella. Still don't know if this was a good idea from the new post, but it was my decision. Maybe we should start an oil thread?

By an ST, FJR, even a Harley and we'll all (most) will still waive on the road and some will still provide you w/ the facts you request (not demand) (especially on Fri) on this site.

 

[Where is Bob L]

Suddenly I find them wearing ill fitting sport coats and attending job fairs and I am posting an open position.

My sport coat is NOT ill fitting. It shrunk over the last dozen years or so and I can't even put on. But it isn't worn out yet, so I won't waste my money on a new one.

Yep, managing engineers is kinda like trying to herd cats..... In the dark..... While they are being chased by dogs.....

Although, to be fair, I did say *please*. OK, I said Please answer with facts, or not at all, but that is sort of the same thing. 8^)

 

[Warchild]

Well, he did say PLEASE.....!

I suspect Bob here is still de-compressing from the Iron Butt Rally, where he was the SOLE Hardley to enter.

It did not finish.... which may be impacting his desire to learn about the FJR.

Good luck with your research, Bob... there is a reason the FJR1300 was the #1 Sport-Touring machine on the Start Line in Spartanburg (~ 1/5 of the entire lineup), so that in and of itself should be a key indicator for you.

 

[Ignacio]

mamike2 has been unanimously elected FJRForum.com Saint of Patience.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

I am an engineer.

Well..., there ya' go -- you already know more than most of us (we should be asking you... :huh: ).

How soon does the top end normally need to be touched up?How expensive is a top end job normally?

again, easy to do, special tools etc.

How much for a complete head/heads and all the parts to just change them out?

If you're into re-doing m/c top ends? -- you might not enjoy the FJR?

The cylinder hone/over-bore/replacement thing might trip-you-up?

OTOH, you won't need to buy multiple complete heads...

 

[Intech]

I can't believe how mild this thread is. Especially compared to the "FJR sucks" thread. I think the OP got off easy. Bust must be sleeping.