Did I just create a problem or make my life easier?

[VAcracker]

Well boys and girls I got my birthday and anniversary present all in one




Concerned my blessing is more work. Like most jobs a hopefully simple task is a lot more work than originally hoped for.

My fix the broken mirror mount, is turning into

Coolant drain and refill
Throttle body sink
It’s up here with almost 20k mi. should I do the rear linkage line too?

What else is a candidate???

 

[SkooterG]

You're a glutton for punishment aren't you?


Having owned many FJRs over several hundred thousand miles..........

At the first tire change, or sooner I:

- Lube the driveshaft and splines and both front and rear axles.
- Lube all the suspension linkage bearings except for the really difficult one. Yamaha really skimps on the grease and I have found that an ounce of prevention here is worth of pound of cure. The hard one to get to is not as exposed to the weather so I put that one off to deal with another day. Adding some good moly, and/or waterproof grease to all the other linkage bearings should nullify problems down the road.

While at it, lube the rear brake lever pivot. Grease the clutch and front brake levers.

Are you due for brake/clutch fluid flush and bleed? If so, install speedbleeders. And get there nifty old fluid bag.

 

[mophead]

+1 on Speedbleeders.

 

[Azor50Ron]

Well boys and girls I got my birthday and anniversary present all in one

View attachment 4498


Concerned my blessing is more work. Like most jobs a hopefully simple task is a lot more work than originally hoped for.

My fix the broken mirror mount, is turning into

Coolant drain and refill
Throttle body sink
It’s up here with -l most 20k mi. should I do the rear linkage line too?

What else is a candidate???

Better shape than mine was....no issues with my #2 gear....runs great now but not quite as good as my '06.

 

[VAcracker]

Wife took these



Oh boy!!

Question. Has anyone ran into some of the needle bearings in the relay arm having the grease become hardened more like wax than grease?

 

[Oldjeep]

Wife took these

View attachment 4856View attachment 4857View attachment 4858View attachment 4859View attachment 4860

Oh boy!!

Question. Has anyone ran into some of the needle bearings in the relay arm having the grease become hardened more like wax than grease?

That is not grease, it is plastic that separates the rollers.

 

[VAcracker]

That is not grease, it is plastic that separates the rollers.

Hmmm

Guess I borked up at least one then, maybe two bearings. I used to pick and pressed on it to try to test what the substance was and it just scooped right out easy as could be didn’t have any real resistance. It just pushed right out almost looked like a bamboo splinter or something.

How are you supposed to pack grease in between rollers when there’s no clearance to get grease underneath the roller.

I didn’t see any marks on the thru pin/bushing , and it rotated smoothly but the bearings themself did not rotate it all. The other bearings were obviously cage needle bearings. They felt good after I greased them up.

.

 

[Oldjeep]

Not sure if this is ok here, but there are some good pictures on the other fjr site. Time to buy some new bearings.
https://www.fjrowners.com/threads/relay-arm-grease.153488/

 

[HilltownDave]

Didn’t realize a mini sledge hammer and a sawzall would be required to work on an FJR. I’m learning every day…

 

[VAcracker]

Wife thought the same.

Had to cut off the front two bolts on the center stand to get it off.

The baby Thor persuader complimented a manual impact driver. Couple taps on a few bolts that tend to have extra lock tight and or corrosion before attempting to back them out.

 

[sullivan]

Excellent conversation, plus the link to the other sites' conversation. Thanks.

 

[FJReady]

Hmmm

Guess I borked up at least one then, maybe two bearings. I used to pick and pressed on it to try to test what the substance was and it just scooped right out easy as could be didn’t have any real resistance. It just pushed right out almost looked like a bamboo splinter or something.

How are you supposed to pack grease in between rollers when there’s no clearance to get grease underneath the roller.

I didn’t see any marks on the thru pin/bushing , and it rotated smoothly but the bearings themself did not rotate it all. The other bearings were obviously cage needle bearings. They felt good after I greased them up.

.

There is no 'separator' between the needles on the front(pivot) and rear(shock mount) relay arm bearings. There is a waxy pasty compound that keeps the rollers in place during manufacture and it does hold a minimal amount of lubricant for the bearing contact surfaces. The two middle(dog bone) bearings in the relay arm and the other two dog bone bearings in your swing arm do have separators in the bearings to keep proper needle spacing.

The first thing I do to the pivot bearing when I rebuild a relay arm for zerk installation is take out that waxy crap along with the needles. The waxy goo get thrown out. After I do the mod to the bearing outer race, the bearing gets repacked with 'red and tacky' lithium grease. The grease passageway I put in causes the grease to essentially encapsulate the installed needles inside the bearing. Theres no longer any need for that waxy stuff.

 

[VAcracker]

There is no 'separator' between the needles on the front(pivot) and rear(shock mount) relay arm bearings. There is a waxy pasty compound that keeps the rollers in place during manufacture and it does hold a minimal amount of lubricant for the bearing contact surfaces. The two middle(dog bone) bearings in the relay arm and the other two dog bone bearings in your swing arm do have separators in the bearings to keep proper needle spacing.

The first thing I do to the pivot bearing when I rebuild a relay arm for zerk installation is take out that waxy crap along with the needles. The waxy goo get thrown out. After I do the mod to the bearing outer race, the bearing gets repacked with 'red and tacky' lithium grease. The grease passageway I put in causes the grease to essentially encapsulate the installed needles inside the bearing. Theres no longer any need for that waxy stuff.

So removing some of the waxy stuff might not have ruined the bearings and replacing them is an option?

 

[FJReady]

If the collar looks good and the outer race looks good and the needles look good, I would repack the needles into the outer race with sticky grease (I like Lucas 'red and tacky'). Good means no corrosion, pitting, worn surfaces.
If your parts look OK and you did lose needles, but don't want to replace the bearing let me know, I'll mail you a few.

 

[mophead]

When you get done there I would start with insulation on the shop walls and roof.

 

[VAcracker]

Ladies and gents the wife finally got back on the big girl bike.

I did 90% of what I intended to.

Repaired the broken coweling stay.

Coolant drain and fill

Inspected and regreased swing arm, relay arm, shaft splines, shift linkage, rear brake lever and center stand ….

New plugs

Throttle body synch

She even washed and waved it!!






Much appreciation for all the feedback and advise from the crew here regarding the questions I had about the various repair jobs!

 

[VAcracker]

Ladies and gents the wife finally got back on the big girl bike.

I did 90% of what I intended to.

Repaired the broken coweling stay.

Coolant drain and fill

Inspected and regreased swing arm, relay arm, shaft splines, shift linkage, rear brake lever and center stand ….

New plugs

Throttle body synch

She even washed and waved it!!

View attachment 4973
View attachment 4974



Much appreciation for all the feedback and advise from the crew here regarding the questions I had about the various repair jobs!

Forgot to mentioned lowered in the process.