Differences in ignition switches

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nkavanau

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Hi all,

have a quick question. I have a 2006 FJR A with ABS, Canadian model. I need to replace my ignition switch as the key no longer turns. I have it all apart, but when looking on E-Bay I noticed a difference between the switches pictured and mine. Mine has a single white connector, and all the other ones pictured have a second smaller red connector. I know it's not the immobilizer as that is a separate piece.

The pictured ones were all used and pulled from working American model bikes. Possible difference in the two models? Just want to avoid ordering one and not be able to use it..

Thanks everyone..

And may you and your loved ones have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

P.S I know Merry Christmas has become politically incorrect, but Christmas is what I celebrate. If anyone finds this offensive, that was not the intent, so get over it and move on..
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Mine was sticking too, and all I did was give it a good flush with a lock deicer to get the crud out (lube build-up), was good to go. Can't help you with the replacement switch......

 
Hi all,have a quick question. I have a 2006 FJR A with ABS, Canadian model. I need to replace my ignition switch as the key no longer turns. I have it all apart, but when looking on E-Bay I noticed a difference between the switches pictured and mine. Mine has a single white connector, and all the other ones pictured have a second smaller red connector. I know it's not the immobilizer as that is a separate piece.

The pictured ones were all used and pulled from working American model bikes. Possible difference in the two models? Just want to avoid ordering one and not be able to use it..

Thanks everyone..

And may you and your loved ones have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

P.S I know Merry Christmas has become politically incorrect, but Christmas is what I celebrate. If anyone finds this offensive, that was not the intent, so get over it and move on..
bike.gif
MERRY CHRISTMAS to you and your Family!!

 
Yeah, unless some pin or pins broke or got jammed in there, I'd be surprised if a quality lube after a thorough cleaning would not get it freed up.

In any case, whether you fix it or replace it, may I suggest regular, (annual, or more often depending on environment), lubing and corrosion protection with ACF-50 or similar

BTW, this forum is most definitely NOT a PC bastion. We play both kinds of music here, country AND western, and there are believers and non-believers, all together in one big, happy dysfunctional family!
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Anyway, saying Merry Christmas is not professing any particular belief, any more than saying TGIF means you worship Freya

So, Merry Christmas right back at ya, from a godless heathen
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The second connector is for the ground line from the sidestand switch to the ECU. I'm not sure why it gets interrupted with the ignition switch off, but it does.

 
escapefjrtist,

did talk to my local shop and apparently mine was not on the list..

raYzerman19,

tried cleaning, lubing,flushing and still no go. The pins are definitely hooped.

Guess the next stop will be the dealer and see what they think about the differences, and if it will work. And of course what it will cost to get new keys coded for the imobilizer.. Or does anyone know of a way to bypass the imobilizer??

 
... Or does anyone know of a way to bypass the immobiliser??
If they do, I sincerely hope they don't post it on a public forum
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.

I had a sticking switch on my '06, as with yours it refused to turn. No amount of lubricating or cleaning would clear it.

I think my UK one was the same as the Canadian version. Luckily for me it was changed out under warranty (together with all the other locks and the ECU to keep "one key fits all").

Had it not been under warranty, I would have attempted to remove it and disassemble it as far as possible to see if I could clear it. You've got to remove it anyway, so you've nothing to lose trying to take it apart.

 
You are sure that it's the lock and not a worn or bent key? I had a little nubbin (highly technical term) break off my OEM key on one side. Since you have the lock apart you should be able to put the key in and observe which of the tumbler plates are not aligning. Adjust the plate or your key until all the plates align.

It may be a big surprise but Yamaha has made defeating the immobilizer very difficult
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And, Merry Christmas.

 
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I am betting that a competent locksmith could help you out! (I would double check that your ignition switch was not covered by the recall.)

Merry Christmas from the other coast!

 
I haven't had an FJR ignition switch apart, however, wasn't it posted somewhere that if the pins now don't align due to wear, you insert key and file the pins flush to the housing? Also, is it serviceable enough to replace pins, that is, if one happened to have that third lock originally supplied for the top box, or better yet, take a trip the locksmith...... those chip keys aren't gonna be cheap.

 
I haven't had an FJR ignition switch apart, however, wasn't it posted somewhere that if the pins now don't align due to wear, you insert key and file the pins flush to the housing? Also, is it serviceable enough to replace pins, that is, if one happened to have that third lock originally supplied for the top box, or better yet, take a trip the locksmith...... those chip keys aren't gonna be cheap.
No, not cheap but isn't it true that the chipped keys don't actually have to be used? IIRC someone posted about using a cheap copy with the fob part of the original key on the same key ring. That post made perfect sense since i never, ever use OEM keys in the bike. Any bike. I always use copies so the OEM is available for crisp copies in the future.

 
Can you take a picture of the switch showing the wire(s) and how they connect? That may help someone identify the reason for your's having one less wire.

It is possible that one wire broke off or was intentionally cut off and a previous owner did some splicing to make it work as it is.

 
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I'm the second owner, and I know the first. Any work he had done was at the dealer. As for myself, the shop I use did have the ignition out when they were installing my risers, but they didn't touch the wiring. I have the pics uploaded to photo bucket, but have no idea how to get them here
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Will drop in the dealer tomorrow and see what they will charge me to cut and program a new chip key for the new ignition. More curious than anything. Hopefully what rbentnail mentioned will work. It sounds way cheaper

Hey mcatrophy, where abouts in Derby are ya?

 
You don't have a sidestand???

If the circuit is open, the motor won't fire. It will crank but throw a code 19. I don't know why you couldn't just close the circuit by tying the wires together. I haven't been able to come up with any reason it ought to go through the ignition switch anyway.

 
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OK, I didn't say what I meant.. Yes I do have a side stand,sorry for the confusion. The the switch I removed does not have the second pigtail. If the one I install does, then I should be able to tie them together and the ECM or ignition will see the stand as up, and should in theory fire.. Yes, I agree with you on that, no logical reason to wire it through the ignition.

But the way I figure it is people way smarter than me are paid big bucks to come up with these ideas, so they must be well thought out and serve a purpose greater than my limited intellect is capable of .....
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...Thought I coulf finish typing that ending with a straight face, but I couldn't..

 
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