Hi All,
Recently I made my own passenger floorboards for my FJR. Since Knifemaker made the original plans and kindly allowed me to copy them, I thought I'd post my own guide here. Since we are all sharing designs, please feel free to copy/modify the designs as y'all see fit! This is my first DIY guide as well, so please let me know what needs to be fixed and I'll try my best to remedy it. I apologize for the lack of pictures, but if/when I make a version 2, I'll try to be more diligent with those.
The Design
Designing the floor boards was probably the most difficult part (for me) of this process. Using the original plans provided by Knifemaker, I was able to create CAD/PDF dwgs for it. Link for the PDFs are here: awesome plan and the CAD file (IGS/STP format) are available upon request. This part works for both the left and right side, the part just needs to be flipped. Here is what was majorly changed from Knifemaker's original design:
Since I don't have manufacturing capability in house (Sadly), garauld so kindly made the aluminum plates. Once they arrived in house, I threaded the holes for #10-32 helicoil holes and added the helicoils as well. That turned into a slight PITA, but that'll be discussed in the afterthoughts. Once this was done, I verified the length of the screw didn't protrude past the floorboards when installed. This is so, when the rubber is added, it doesn't dig into the rubber.
To add the rubber, I cut out an oversized piece of rubber. It's critical that it overhangs on all the edges. Now, add random bolts into the floorboards. This prevents the adhesive from going into the threaded holes, and being a pain to remove later on. With the bolts installed, apply the adhesive to the floorboards. It is critical that you spread out the adhesive evenly before applying the rubber sheets. The adhesive I used doesn't "squish" out as one would expect. If you're reading this for the second time and failed to do this, it was easy enough to remove the adhesive from the rubber and aluminum and start over.
Add the rubber sheet and press the rubber + aluminum between two pieces of wood. Clamp accordingly. Note: Add clearance holes for the bolts. Verify that the adhesive is still overhanging the aluminum on all edges, and let it sit for 24 hours minimum. If you use a different adhesive, follow those directions.
With the adhesive cured, take a utility knife and cut away the extra adhesive/rubber. The cuts didn't come out cleanly, so if you have a different way to make clean cuts please let me know! Remove the old footpegs and add the new ones. I used one washer between the screw and the actual peg, with three washers between the peg and the floorboards. This is done to prevent the pegs and floorboards from interfering with each other. If using the "V2" version, this may not be applicable. I tightened them to "good enough". Note: I did not use loctite in this application, as I already have helicoils. If using a regular tapped holes, loctite is highly recommended.
Usage
The first thing I noticed with these things is that they are a tad bit long. When first getting on the bike (5'10", male), I can notice them. I am slowly getting used to them, but its a slight annoyance regardless. My better-half like them, however they were unable to completely solve her problems of her legs cramping (if anyone has an extra pair of footpeg re-locators, please let me know
). Other than that, they seem fine. I've only had a few hundred miles on them, but the adhesive hasn't moved yet. With the original design, the floorboards are able to fold up just fine. Install photos are below.
Install #1
Install #2
Install #3
Install #4
After Thoughts
If/when I do a V2, I'll use this updated design. This design should eliminate the need for adding helicoils (they are a pain to install), using spacers, and the rider hitting the floorboards when getting on the bike. It'll also use a thinner metal, to make mfg cheaper. The only other "gripe" I have is how the rubber looks after it had been cut. I'm sure there's a better way to cut it once the adhesive cures, I'm just not aware of it. There may be a future version that utilizes metric bolts instead of #10-32s (maybe 5mm), but that's a future me problem.
Recently I made my own passenger floorboards for my FJR. Since Knifemaker made the original plans and kindly allowed me to copy them, I thought I'd post my own guide here. Since we are all sharing designs, please feel free to copy/modify the designs as y'all see fit! This is my first DIY guide as well, so please let me know what needs to be fixed and I'll try my best to remedy it. I apologize for the lack of pictures, but if/when I make a version 2, I'll try to be more diligent with those.
The Design
Designing the floor boards was probably the most difficult part (for me) of this process. Using the original plans provided by Knifemaker, I was able to create CAD/PDF dwgs for it. Link for the PDFs are here: awesome plan and the CAD file (IGS/STP format) are available upon request. This part works for both the left and right side, the part just needs to be flipped. Here is what was majorly changed from Knifemaker's original design:
- Moved the mounting points to 1/2" from the edge
- Added a giant radius to make it look purrrty.
- Changed the mounting holes to #10-32 (instead of the original 1/4-20)
- Changed the through holes to tapped holes (for #10-32, obv).
- CRES screws: #10-32 with a 3/4" long worked for me. The length may vary, the only important thing is to verify that they don't protrude past the floorboard.
- Helicoils: Since the first iteration of this uses locking helicoils, found at McMaster (P/N 90296A202) Link #1
- Rubber Material: I found nothing from the original posts, I found that seemed appealing on McMaster (P/N 3727T24) Link #2
- Washers: I found some random #10 washers in a hardware store, I used about 16 total (4 per hole). You can probably get away with less, so YMMV.
- Adhesive: digging thru the post, the material "goop" is referenced. I found "Amazing Goop" on Amazon Link #3. I don't have much experience using adhesive, so, if you have another preferred adhesive go for it.
- Clamps (I used some I already had)
- Misc pieces of wood
Since I don't have manufacturing capability in house (Sadly), garauld so kindly made the aluminum plates. Once they arrived in house, I threaded the holes for #10-32 helicoil holes and added the helicoils as well. That turned into a slight PITA, but that'll be discussed in the afterthoughts. Once this was done, I verified the length of the screw didn't protrude past the floorboards when installed. This is so, when the rubber is added, it doesn't dig into the rubber.
To add the rubber, I cut out an oversized piece of rubber. It's critical that it overhangs on all the edges. Now, add random bolts into the floorboards. This prevents the adhesive from going into the threaded holes, and being a pain to remove later on. With the bolts installed, apply the adhesive to the floorboards. It is critical that you spread out the adhesive evenly before applying the rubber sheets. The adhesive I used doesn't "squish" out as one would expect. If you're reading this for the second time and failed to do this, it was easy enough to remove the adhesive from the rubber and aluminum and start over.
Add the rubber sheet and press the rubber + aluminum between two pieces of wood. Clamp accordingly. Note: Add clearance holes for the bolts. Verify that the adhesive is still overhanging the aluminum on all edges, and let it sit for 24 hours minimum. If you use a different adhesive, follow those directions.
With the adhesive cured, take a utility knife and cut away the extra adhesive/rubber. The cuts didn't come out cleanly, so if you have a different way to make clean cuts please let me know! Remove the old footpegs and add the new ones. I used one washer between the screw and the actual peg, with three washers between the peg and the floorboards. This is done to prevent the pegs and floorboards from interfering with each other. If using the "V2" version, this may not be applicable. I tightened them to "good enough". Note: I did not use loctite in this application, as I already have helicoils. If using a regular tapped holes, loctite is highly recommended.
Usage
The first thing I noticed with these things is that they are a tad bit long. When first getting on the bike (5'10", male), I can notice them. I am slowly getting used to them, but its a slight annoyance regardless. My better-half like them, however they were unable to completely solve her problems of her legs cramping (if anyone has an extra pair of footpeg re-locators, please let me know
). Other than that, they seem fine. I've only had a few hundred miles on them, but the adhesive hasn't moved yet. With the original design, the floorboards are able to fold up just fine. Install photos are below.Install #1
Install #2
Install #3
Install #4
After Thoughts
If/when I do a V2, I'll use this updated design. This design should eliminate the need for adding helicoils (they are a pain to install), using spacers, and the rider hitting the floorboards when getting on the bike. It'll also use a thinner metal, to make mfg cheaper. The only other "gripe" I have is how the rubber looks after it had been cut. I'm sure there's a better way to cut it once the adhesive cures, I'm just not aware of it. There may be a future version that utilizes metric bolts instead of #10-32s (maybe 5mm), but that's a future me problem.
