Do Fjr engine last forever?

[lele]

if properly maintained and serviced??

 

[C&C]

Pretty-much.

 

[RossKean]

Of course not! I have heard of one or two with over 300,000 miles, a fair number with 200,000 miles and many with over 100,000 miles. In the absence of a major failure (cam chain tensioner failure or transmission gear dogs), I think it is reasonable to expect well over 100,000; perhaps 200,000 without issues. The fact is that you are running metal on metal (or metal on ceramic cylinder liners) and there WILL be wear (even if you use Amsoil). At 106,000 miles, mine SEEMS to be running very well but I have never checked for the beginning symptoms of an engine that may be getting tired. I probably should do a compression and leakdown tests but I'm not sure if I really want to know. Regular dyno runs would clearly show when performance is starting to drop off. Valves and rings can be replaced at considerable cost; other stuff too. I would likely try to find a low(er) mileage eBay donor engine if things started to go South on my bike rather than chase problems related to high mileage wear.

The FJR engine has proven to be one of the most reliable motorcycle powerplants out there and for that reason, I plan on keeping my '07 for at least a couple more years but no engine is immune to wear. For the majority of riders who do less than 20,000 miles per year (most probably do less than 10,000 miles per year), engine lifetime will not be an issue if properly maintained and not abused excessively. The days of a worn-out MC engine at 50,000 miles are past - even for a Harley!

 

[lele]

thank you for reply

I think mine engine is starting to lose performance maybe I need a compression test

if you do more than 20000km per year having two engine is the solution, with one mounted and running fine and the other in constant checking or repair

mine is now at 120000km

 

[RossKean]

Yours is only at 75,000 miles (120,000 km). I wouldn't consider that to be particularly high mileage. Compression test and leakdown test might tell you what is going on. As I mentioned, a dyno test will tell you if the perceived performance loss is real or not. I assume you have been doing regular valve clearance checks? Does your bike use any oil between changes? Is it a "ticker"?

I don't consider 20,000 km/year (12,500 miles) to be very high - I do between 30,000 and 50,000 km/year and there are lots who do more than that. My bike is 6 years newer than yours but total mileage is quite a bit higher (170,000 km).

 

[lele]

here in europe everything is smaller...in Italy no one make so many miles like u

riding a motorbike is more a status symbol infact everyone in my country ride a BMW GS

Thanks for the conversation!

 

[Geezer]

Mine started using a little oil somewhere north of 100K miles. I have over 140k on it now and I do carry a spare quart of oil just in case I need it between changes. It seems to be only when I am running hard with high RPM and a lot of engine braking, so I suspect valve seals or guides rather than the rings. I don't think the ceramic coated cylinder walls will wear before the rings unless something scratches them.

The valve train seems to be the weakest link, though far from weak if you pay attention to the cam chain tensioner and keep the oil clean.

 

[Geezer]

thank you for reply I think mine engine is starting to lose performance maybe I need a compression test if you do more than 20000km per year having two engine is the solution, with one mounted and running fine and the other in constant checking or repair mine is now at 120000km

I suppose you may have a problem with the engine, but it would be unusual. For me, I simply get used to having all that power and over time I scare myself less and less. So it might seem like the bike has less power, but it's really the rider getting used to the power.

 

[Bounce]

+1

Lele doesn't seem to be stressing the motor WRT mileage anything more than what many people do in the US (and the US can often have harsher extreme weather conditions. I'd not sweat it.

Make sure to stick to your service schedule. Don't try to extend your oil changes like some auto makers try and convince people to do. Don't skip valve checks and adjustments. Swap the cam chain tensioner as recommended by those on the forums. Change your coolant and clutch/brake fluids every other year. Do the little things too like cleaning and lubing the lever pivot points.

https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/levers/levers.html

And gas cap.

https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/ff/ff.html

 

[Aasland]

... so I suspect valve seals or guides rather than the rings. I don't think the ceramic coated cylinder walls will wear before the rings unless something scratches them.

You can say that again. Both engines I have opened up (24k and 95K) still had the cross-hatching on the cylinder walls. I really don't think this is an area to worry about.

If the OP can establish a loss of power, I'd chalk it up to carbon deposits or perhaps a cam being a tooth off.

 

[Denver_FJR]

You can say that again. Both engines I have opened up (24k and 95K) still had the cross-hatching on the cylinder walls. I really don't think this is an area to worry about.
If the OP can establish a loss of power, I'd chalk it up to carbon deposits or perhaps a cam being a tooth off.

Not the first time I've heard this but still surprises me. I would expect particles of carbon build-up would eventually flake off and make their way between the piston and cylinder, scoring/wearing the cylinder walls.

 

[SoCalFJR1300]

Nothing with moving parts lasts forever.

 

[RadioHowie]

I guess I'll have to live forever to see if my FJR is still running.....

 

[SoCalFJR1300]

here in europe everything is smaller...

I heard that's why European women like American men!

 

[Aasland]

You can say that again. Both engines I have opened up (24k and 95K) still had the cross-hatching on the cylinder walls. I really don't think this is an area to worry about.
If the OP can establish a loss of power, I'd chalk it up to carbon deposits or perhaps a cam being a tooth off.

Not the first time I've heard this but still surprises me. I would expect particles of carbon build-up would eventually flake off and make their way between the piston and cylinder, scoring/wearing the cylinder walls.

I was thinking more along the lines of carbon buildup preventing valves from closing entirely, or caking up on the piston head and displacing air/fuel, particularly in the squish zone.

Most likely though is that the OP just got used to the power ;-)

 

[SoCalFJR1300]

Could take it to a dyno and see how the power is doing.

 

[TomInPA]

I guess I'll have to live forever to see if my FJR is still running.....

That would be for engine #2? Your timing misadventure was proof the FJR engine can be killed.

 

[RossKean]

At this stage, I would not assume major mechanical issues as long as maintenance has been kept reasonably up-to-date and the bike hasn't had the snot beaten out of it. I asked above but didn't get an answer - is it using any oil?

Run some Yamaha Ring Free through it

Check valve clearance if you haven't done so recently

(Replace cam chain tensioner if you haven't already done so)

Change plugs if not done recently

Change air filter if not done recently

Check throttle body synch

Check compression and leakdown (after a thorough Ring Free treatment)

Make sure you don't have a dragging brake pad - it would have to be bad if there was a noticeable power loss

Dynamometer testing is really the only objective evaluation of reduced power

Ride more - stress less

 

[FJRMGM]

Mine has 100,000 miles and I swear it runs stronger than ever and uses no oil.

Ride thr bike!