Do you have a tire changer?

[FJRay]

OK, so the Dealer (Stealer as many call him) Local Repair Shops charge you $X to do what needs to be done to your machine (Bike/Car/Truck/Lawn Mower/Outboard/SnowMobile/ATV....etc-etc)

He has invested a lot of $ in real estate, rental, taxes, utilities, insurance, employee benefits, health insurance, dental insurance, training, franchise fees, floor plan interest fees, vehicle inventory, parts inventory, equipment, equipment up-grades, disposal fees, government regulations, administrative fees, retirement programs, Union Dues if applicable ...etc.. etc.

Paying a Technician/Mechanic/Grease Monkey a decent wage ( $18-$22 per hr)+ + + +

Not selling parts/tires at a loss.... (profit is good for business)

What's a good fee that will keep all of you happy?

Maybe you all could ship your tire/wheels to China, have them swap out your tires for nothing and just pay the FedEx charges.....

I just don't get it!

Thanks!....I'm done my Ramp.....>>>

I have to agree. I have a Atlas power tire machine and paid 1600.00 for it. Before that I had a coats 220 which I think is the best manual machine. I charge 40.00 per wheel to mount and balance. If it is a tube type or has rim locks I charge more. Some are enough of a PIA that I charge straight time. If the owner brings the wheels in then it's 20.00 each and more for tubes and locks. My operation is a small one butt show but it still has overhead. If you want to do your own to save money I am all for it but don't blame the shop owner for making a living. The next time you are in your favorite dealer take a look around and figure what it takes to keep the doors open.

 

[Baddog]

$40.00 is insane..... you should do it for no charge and sell the tires at a 10% less than your cost.... you're just screwing everyone.... what are you making..... $12-$30 per Tire?.... Rip-off!! If you sold 2000 tires @ $30 profit you would have $60,000 gross profit in one year, after expensives your net profit would be somewhere around -$12,000 .... yes NEGATIVE $..... so.... keep plucking away!

 

[jimyman]

All of the dealerships and local shops charge at least $50 plus to put on a tire, when the tire is on the bike. They also want to sell the tire to us and are making at least $50 on the tire. It really irritates me when I know that they can do the front and back in twenty minutes or less and charge us for at least an hour's worth of labor and rape us on the cost of the tire.

I called one of the dealerships today and they wanted $170 for a 180/55/17 Michelin PRII rear tire, then with installation it would have been $210 plus tax. Crazy, just ridiculous. It shouldn't surprise me because these same guys look for a $5k profit for our style bikes. If not, they will not sell them. Last year I found a dealership in the area that would sell me a new Kaw Concours for $10,400 out the door, no trade, NIB ABS. The same bike with them was $15,900.

I am really thinking about buying one of these tools. The one from Harbor Freight is on Craigslist for $75 and they go up to $5k from there. Just wondering if anyone else has had any experiences.

Forgot to add this.... I have a friend nearby that has Michelin Pilot's front and rear for our bikes as a package, brand new for $180.

Well not to be a odd ball ; but the wife and me change our with tire irons ;; Got a long 4/4 ; cut notch in it for a 2/2

Put it under trailer hitch of truck and use it to break the bead ;; did get a no mar wheel balancer Was able to chage tire with very little trouble . Lots of good advice here and on line

Good Luck

 

[escapefjrtist]

Another HF + Mojo + MP balancer user here. Lost count of how many tires we've changed, but more reasonable tire costs and the knowledge it's done right seal the deal for me. And...as previously mentioned, with your own changer you have the opportunity to remove partially used tires before long trips and use them up later on.

While I agree that dealers need to make a profit to remain in business, I'm constantly reminded of an old saying... Pigs get fat, hogs get slaughtered.

--G

 

[Auburn]

I have the No-Mar and the Marc Pynes balancer. Probably done about 50-60 tires now between tech days and my own. I agree it is mostly technique to change tires. I didn't buy it for the money savings, though you will realize it. I did it becaue it is a royal PIA to schedule getting the tires done. And as Iggy said, it is way more conveinent to change a set before they a worn out for a trip and then put the take offs back on to finish them locally. I always keep a spare set around for the just in case flat that ruins a tire. The other thing it does, is allow me to inspect the wheel, bearings and balance it to my satisfaction. I am pretty anal about making sure the balance is correct, after all I am the one riding it.

I have had both a harbor frieght and No-Mar, the HF unit works, but takes more effort in my opinion than the No-Mar to use.

 

[El Toro]

I'm not a dealer (haven't worked in a bike shop in 37 years), but I'm with the dealers on their costs. My heart goes out to the shops that are losing it all as we go into the 3rd winter in a row with a depressed market for motorcycles in the US. We've lost several dealers during this recession, and I suspect that more will follow. I'm heading to Atlanta on Friday to get a set of Metzeler M5 Interacts installed on my K1300S, and I'm driving that far because he's the nearest dealer who will do a legitimate high speed dynamic balance. I can generally tell the difference between static and dynamic balance, and it bothers me. The dealer has liability for his work, including responsibility for buggaring up your rims.

I can see buying a tire machine for convenience (we have a No-Mar pro model in my lab). You can remount partially used tires, and you can do tire changes at night or on Sundays when dealers are closed. These can be real advantages. I don't see a lot of cost savings at typical personal use rates, unless several people band together to make the capital investment, or unless the user is willing to put up with the Harbor Freight Chinese Crap, or is willing to deal with spoons and C clamps on a garbage can for a bike with wheel assemblies that include ABS sensors, Tire Pressure sensors, etc. If you buggar up your rims and you don't care, then that loss can be discounted.

The Coates is probably the easiest of the manual machines. In direct side by side comparison, the students like the Coates better than the No-Mar.

Another thought .... we have a local dealer who will mount any tire for any body from any source on any bike. He charges $5 per wheel if you bring the rim. You balance it yourself. He charges about $25 if you ride in and expect him to take the wheel off the bike. I use this guy to mount tires on ATVs. I would not let him touch my FJR (or any other high dollar bike) even though he is an authorized Yamaha dealer. I've seen how they work.

Last thought ... a good tire machine also takes up real estate in your garage, and for most folks, the amount of use a tire changing machine would see would not warrant the foot print in the garage. I don't have one in my shop at home, and I don't want one.

 

[JR'SFJR]

I also have a HF tire changer, NoMar bar, and MP. I too mount my own tires for convenience, switch out half worn tires before a long tour, and don't really want anyone else working on my bikes.

I mount the HF to 4 sinkers in the garage floor and move it to a corner for storage when not in use. I put a couple of layers of duct tape in the wheel clamps to keep the rim from slipping or damaging the rim. Not crazy about the NoMar bar either, but haven't broken a tip yet. Should have purchased the Mojo. I purchased the HF several years ago on sale and only paid $50-60 total. I probably would have purchased the Cycle Hill if it was available. I only mount a couple of sets of tires a year, so will probably keep what I have.

 

[bradman]

OK, so the Dealer (Stealer as many call him) Local Repair Shops charge you $X to do what needs to be done to your machine (Bike/Car/Truck/Lawn Mower/Outboard/SnowMobile/ATV....etc-etc)

He has invested a lot of $ in real estate, rental, taxes, utilities, insurance, employee benefits, health insurance, dental insurance, training, franchise fees, floor plan interest fees, vehicle inventory, parts inventory, equipment, equipment up-grades, disposal fees, government regulations, administrative fees, retirement programs, Union Dues if applicable ...etc.. etc.

Paying a Technician/Mechanic/Grease Monkey a decent wage ( $18-$22 per hr)+ + + +

Not selling parts/tires at a loss.... (profit is good for business)

What's a good fee that will keep all of you happy?

Maybe you all could ship your tire/wheels to China, have them swap out your tires for nothing and just pay the FedEx charges.....

I just don't get it!

Thanks!....I'm done my Ramp.....>>>

I have to agree. I have a Atlas power tire machine and paid 1600.00 for it. Before that I had a coats 220 which I think is the best manual machine. I charge 40.00 per wheel to mount and balance. If it is a tube type or has rim locks I charge more. Some are enough of a PIA that I charge straight time. If the owner brings the wheels in then it's 20.00 each and more for tubes and locks. My operation is a small one butt show but it still has overhead. If you want to do your own to save money I am all for it but don't blame the shop owner for making a living. The next time you are in your favorite dealer take a look around and figure what it takes to keep the doors open.

Ha ha! Clearly you must own a business or otherwise and have maybe been adversely affected by non-traditional ways of doing business.

What they charge is their business, because I'm going to buy my own tobacco and roll my own cigarettes.

Sorry if I ruffled some feathers, I just don't have the expendable income to give any more money away. I already give the socialists 1/3 of my salary every year.

I'm here to learn about riding, enjoy riding and learn the "tricks of the trade" and clearly I'm learning some now! Ha ha.

Thanks guys! :yahoo:

 

[bradman]

Thanks guys. There's a guy on Craigslist with the HF changer, like new with a special tire bar? He wants $75 for the package. He has a BMW and has taken really good care of the stuff.

I'm just wondering if I would be better to pay a little more now or if it sounds like a good deal. He also has a tire balance tool.

 

[Checkswrecks]

At $75 you can't lose.

The thing would be a pain to store as a single unit, but mine quickly knocks into 3 parts that can go away. The top motorcycle adapter and main body are easily managed smaller pieces that go away in the garage rafters. The main body simply bolts to a 4 ft by 4 ft piece of plywood with carriage bolts and wing nuts. That base board slips flat against the shed wall behind the shovels and other yard stuff. I can have it together and in use in about 10 minutes.

 

[bradman]

At $75 you can't lose.

The thing would be a pain to store as a single unit, but mine quickly knocks into 3 parts that can go away. The top motorcycle adapter and main body are easily managed smaller pieces that go away in the garage rafters. The main body simply bolts to a 4 ft by 4 ft piece of plywood with carriage bolts and wing nuts. That base board slips flat against the shed wall behind the shovels and other yard stuff. I can have it together and in use in about 10 minutes.

Thank you for your advice. I am excited about it.

 

[frito1]

OK, so the Dealer (Stealer as many call him) Local Repair Shops charge you $X to do what needs to be done to your machine (Bike/Car/Truck/Lawn Mower/Outboard/SnowMobile/ATV....etc-etc)

He has invested a lot of <snip>Paying a Technician/Mechanic/Grease Monkey a decent wage ( $18-$22 per hr)+ + + +

Not selling parts/tires at a loss.... <snip>I just don't get it!

I don't mind paying for a service, but I also don't like being abused. Charging inflated prices because you have a niche market is a rip off. I can go to town and get a 31/10.50/15 heavy ass mud tire, balanced & mounted, on my truck for <$20, pay well below MSRP for the tire, and have the labor done by the newest, least experienced, lowest paid guy in the shop. If I go to any local dealer I get charged one hour of shop labor ~$80, for each tire. Top that with an inflated MSRP tire price and it's usurious. Plus you can guess the quality of labor on a tire change since the newest, least experienced, lowest paid guy in the MC shop gets tire duty too. My last dealer tire change cost $267 and my bike was back in the parking lot in 45 minutes covered in greasy hand prints (yes, I was charged the full hours labor). The local Indy's have hitched a ride on this gravy train and set their price within $5 of the dealers. Since you have to schedule a week or two in advance I'd bet the tire boy is busy all day banging out $80 an hour + parts cost (no labor charge to slip in a set of brake pads before you need them). I'm thinking that makes the tire corner quite profitable.

The flip side: I buy the same tire as the dealer delivered to my door for $50-$70 less than dealer retail price and labor is $21.76 (what I get paid at work) or free depending on your point of view. That put’s $120-$150 per tire back in my pocket, plus I’m not tied to the dealer’s scheduling and the 2 hours travel time to and from the dealer. So far I’ve (kept) pocketed a couple of grand minus the cost of the No Mar set up.

The bonus of this exercise is that someone who cares about the bike and my safety is doing the work as it should be done. That’s priceless.

If a dealer can’t manage operating costs, prices, and maintain the associated sales volume needed to stay in business, let them go under like any other mismanaged operation, its economics..or they can go find more posers and/or non-mechanically inclined, deep pocketed customers to foot the bill.

JMHO YMMV

 

[frito1]

I've got a Coates 220

You're my hero. I wanted a Coats, but wouldn't pay for a new one and kept missing deals on used ones.

 

[bradman]

I think that all you guys rock! Just the fact that so many have tried this and most of you are continuing to do it. My dealership is going to see me less and less as I meet people that know how to do what they are doing. I'm going to get my tires from a friend for $180 for front and back brand new Michelin Pilot Powers. I am paying right at that for just my rear Michelin Pilot Road II. Not including anything but tax.

 

[Fred W]

I've always just used tire irons, wheel bolted to an old spare tire and a home made bead breaker. It works easier than you might think. The only downside is all of the bending over. My old back doesn't appreciate that so much any more. I'll be looking for some kind of more back friendly setup soon myself.

 

[NMRoadRunner]

I own 1/2 of a No-Mar on the stand and will never have anyone else change my tires again. F**king Cycle Gear :assassin: screw me once, your fault, screw me twice, my fault. Thanks to them I now have the freedom to do my own tire changes and balancing. :yahoo: :yahoo:

 

[Moosehead]

I'm using the HF model with the nylon rim grippers and the Mojo bar. I put threaded inserts in the garage floor, so that it bolts down solid. When I'm not using it I just slip pan head screws in the threaded inserts to keep dirt out. Nice and rigid. My last tire change was 2 hours, both tires form start to finish including removing and reinstalling the wheels and balancing.

It's not too expensive to have a shop change your tires if you only change them when they wear out. But I think I'm like a lot of other guys who change tires before long trips. The tires may be worn 75%, so I'll swap them out for a new pair before a trip, them put the old ones back on when I get back for local rides. So I'm constantly changing tires, so it wouldn't be economical for me. Plus I can change them when it's convenient for me.

 

[Harald]

Count me in the spoon user corner also. I used to change tires with the wheel on a plastic bucket using spoons. Recently I upgraded my setup by making this hitch mounted holder/bead breaker.

All parts were salvaged at no cost except I had to buy the threaded rod. It doesn't take up much room stored because it pulls out of my truck hitch and the bead breaker handle pulls apart.

To complete the process, I also made a balancing stand that utilizes the bikes axle to hold the wheel and relies on bearings for low rolling resistance:

No cost to produce this stand and it works just fine on tires as tested up to 145 mph (on a closed course - of course! ).

Buying the HF changer will be cheaper than the time I put in creating my own tools, but I enjoy making my own stuff. Same reason I handload ammunition - it's just more satisfying watching a big buck crumple after being hit by one of my handloaded Barnes Tipped Triple Shock X bullets. :yahoo:

 

[GA CYCLE RIDER]

Its a Coats 220 for me. Add in a marc Parnes balancer with various adapters to fit all of my bikes and it can handle all of the tire business right here at the house.

On behalf of myself and several close buds I have changed 100 tires as of last week. At 30 bucks a pop that is 3 gees worth of labor not to mention the convienance factor.

I paid about 800 dollars for the Coats new about 5 years ago. It has paid for itself many times already.

The coats is a very tough piece of equipment that will for sure outlast me.

 

[r1byker]

I've got a Coates 220

You're my hero. I wanted a Coats, but wouldn't pay for a new one and kept missing deals on used ones.

That Coates has really come in handy. Besides swapping tires back and forth for my track bike, I've changed the front tire on my John Deere tractor ('53 Model 60), mounted the spare tire on my Caddy, plus changed tires on the FJR, in addition to changing tires for my riding buddies.