Dodge Durango

[FJRay]

I just finished installing a new engine in my kids Durango and it doesn't want to run. fuel pump runs. dist. is in right. it cranks good and will act like it wants to run but won't quite get going. When I first tried it ran at idle for maybe 2 minutes but would not respond to the throttle and then it died and won't go. I don't know **** about late model cars as I quit working on cars in 1980. Radman, you need to help me.

 

[v65]

To help the radman out, what year Durango, what year motor, what size motor, anything replaced besides the motor (like electronics), why was the motor replaced, how many miles on the body, what kind of fuel pressure do you have, etc? You said it ran for two minutes (at idle since it wouldn't respond to throttle?), did it run rough at idle?

 

[FJRay]

1998 Durango, 5.2 liter, 318 c.i. , multi port injection, 117,000 miles. The engine lost the soft plugs in the back of the block and was seriously overheated. It had exhaust gas in the cooling system and had two soft cyls so I replaced it with a rebuilt. No electronics were replaced only mechanicals and cooling system. When it ran it was smooth and quiet with no leaks and good oil pressure. It acts like there is no fuel but I can hear the pump run and stop when I turn on the ignition. The book I have says there is something called a PCM that will shut off the pump if there is no signal from the crankshaft trigger. I just checked all those connections again and they are hooked up and nothing seems to be pinched and I put more gas in the tank. If the PCM has turned off the pump I need to figuer out how to turn it back on. I think I will give up until tomorow. :angry:

 

[Windjammer]

You might pull a spark plug and see if it's wet or not. Does the exhaust smell like unburned fuel? It should if fuel has been getting through. Think it's not getting gas? You might try putting a small amount of fuel into the intake and try cranking - see if it starts and then quits when the fuel you put in gets consumed. Is check engine light on? Any codes stored? Did you try disconnecting battery for a minute or so to clear any codes that got stored when it ran briefly?

 

[rickysnickers]

1998 Durango, 5.2 liter, 318 c.i. , multi port injection, 117,000 miles. The engine lost the soft plugs in the back of the block and was seriously overheated. It had exhaust gas in the cooling system and had two soft cyls so I replaced it with a rebuilt. No electronics were replaced only mechanicals and cooling system. When it ran it was smooth and quiet with no leaks and good oil pressure. It acts like there is no fuel but I can hear the pump run and stop when I turn on the ignition. The book I have says there is something called a PCM that will shut off the pump if there is no signal from the crankshaft trigger. I just checked all those connections again and they are hooked up and nothing seems to be pinched and I put more gas in the tank. If the PCM has turned off the pump I need to figuer out how to turn it back on. I think I will give up until tomorow. :angry:

I have a '00 Dakota R/T w/a 360 in it. Your PCM is located on the right side of the engine compartment. There are three large plug in connectors that go into it. Check to make sure that they are all tight. Also, when you are doing that, actually pull each plug off and see if any of the pins on he PCM board have been bent. This has been known to happen with some of my R/T buddies.

The crank sensor is at the back of the block, also on the right side I believe. Double check to make sure the wire didnt get pinched somehow and is now grounding out.

Keep us updated.

Rick

 

[FJRay]

I traced the crank sensor wires last night and all looks ok and the PCM wasn't touched. The pisser is that even with the bad engine it drove itself into the shop and now it doesn't want to drivre out. Off to look at other things. Today is trash day so if nothing else I can drag it to the street and throw it away.

 

[v65]

1998 Durango, 5.2 liter, 318 c.i. , multi port injection, 117,000 miles. The engine lost the soft plugs in the back of the block and was seriously overheated. It had exhaust gas in the cooling system and had two soft cyls so I replaced it with a rebuilt.

I would assume that would generate some error codes. Does the pcm need to be reset/cleared with the new install?

 

[huk finn]

on the replacement engine, did you use the old heads (possibly warped)? Also what year engine went back in? maybe the sensors give off different values with different years and your computer wont accept them.

 

[FJRay]

All I replaced was the cast iron part. Complete long block from a reputable builder. All electronics and sensors are the same ones that were in it befors and it ran just fine. everything was marked before dissasembly and pictures were taken. all parts were returned to their original location. The tow truck will be here today to take it to somebody that has the equipment and the know how to make it happy. I quit working on cars for a living in 1980 for a reason and this just reminds me that I made the right choice.

 

[snikr]

Hopefully it was just a sensor but please let us know the outcome.

Tom

 

[Wingman]

Have you cracked the fuel return line and cycled the key until fuel comes out? A buddy of mine ran his Durango out of fuel and spent the better part of the day trying to start it. For some reason it fired right up after we did this procedure.

Maybe this will help?

David

 

[FJRay]

I had checked for that and on this system there is no return to the tank. the pressure regulator is on the feed from the tank and there is no return from the fuel rail. Thanks.

 

[rickysnickers]

I had checked for that and on this system there is no return to the tank. the pressure regulator is on the feed from the tank and there is no return from the fuel rail. Thanks.

Ray,

I have been thinking about your truck. Believe it or not, the distributor actually doesn't control the timing as it would on an older car/truck. It controls something called the "fuel sync." I realized that you said you have checked it, but i would suggest that you might double check the positioning of the distributor. I suspect it might be worth while. Also are all the plug wires placed on the correct plugs, and the firing order is correct? I'm not trying to sound like a "know it all." I'm just rying to throw out some other suggestions.

Rick

 

[radman]

If it idled, then quit, but no power, no rpm's above idle, then it's timed, and has ignition. A fuel pressure test would tell you whats going on in the Pump Room. Feeding the engine gas via dumping some down the throttle body would have failed/no failed the ign and timing. From the symptoms sounds like a pump or filter issue. Mopars for some reason have pumps that fail slooooooow, will idle but not go, or go real slow for some time before finally dying. Have had this happen on several, one Caravan that took me 18 miles to Wall SD at 10-15 mph, up to a shop door, never to move under it's own power again.

 

[Powerman]

My Dodge Ram pump failed on the freeway. It took two days to get 8 miles to the house. First day I kind of idled it up to my exit and parked at a store. Next morning I went to get it and the wrecker was pulling up to my truck. It started right up, I waved to the wrecker guy and went 2 miles. A cop pulled over and asked me about it, I told him I would move it soon. I went back a few hours later and made it the last mile to the house. The tank was half full and I put the new pump in, dealer gave me the wrong one. I wiped the gas off and got another one the next day. I guess it's not bad, as this was the only problem since new in 95.