Drive train "crashing" when engaged on a cold engine

[user 99768]

Hi,
I have a 2015AF FJR1300. It was purchased by a friend as new, old stock, in 2017. He only did 3500kms in the 5 years before I brought it. It spent most of the time in storage. It was serviced every year, for the 5 years he had it, inline with the warranty requirements.
My problem is the drive train crashes into gear very loudly, when 1st gear is engaged while the engine is cold and on high idle. The problem does not exist when the engine is hot and idling at 1100rpm. I have changed the diff oil, engine oil and filter, hoping this would help however it hasn't. If I try to gently put it in gear you can hear cogs catching each other and chattering. I have tried dropping it into 1st gear abruptly and this generates a terrible crash sound.
The clutch is always smooth, no slippage or shuddering, whether the engine is cold or hot.
I am suspecting that because the bike sat for 2 years before being sold and that my friend hardly rode it, the clutch friction plates may have dried out and so are needing changing. Has anyone had this experience and found a solution? I'd really appreciate informed feedback on what may be going on here and how I can resolve it? My friend always warmed the bike up before riding it so he never experienced the issue I found.

A second observation is that when the bike starts cold, the idle rpm is about 1600rpm, which seems very high to me. Once warmed, the idle rpm is 1100rpm. Are these typical rpms for this bike?
Thanks everyone.

 

[Ignacio]

All four of my FJRs have done both the first and second thing. Unless the bike moves forward against the brake, it doesn't hurt anything for the first...and as designed for the latter. Worry less, ride more.

 

[sapest]

^^ As above.
Some report that pulling the clutch in 3 or 4 times before engaging first gear minimizes the clunk.

-Steve

 

[user 99768]

All four of my FJRs have done both the first and second thing. It doesn't hurt anything for the first...and as designed for the latter. Worry less, ride more.

Thank you so much. I had been very worried about doing damage and possible repair bills.

 

[user 99768]

^^ As above.
Some report that pulling the clutch in 3 or 4 times before engaging first gear minimizes the clunk.

-Steve

Thanks Steve. I had tried operating the clutch, as you suggested, and it didn't change anything. However I am more reassured since hearing from you guys.

 

[allrider]

If your talking about going from neutral with the clutch out, to pulling in the clutch and shifting into first and getting a clunk. Try pulling in the clutch and wait 3-5 sec before you shift into gear. That outta do it.

 

[Oldjeep]

Option 2 - put it in gear before you start the bike.

 

[Diablo1]

The reason the transmission clunks when you put it in gear on a cold engine is simple. It’s because the oil viscosity is high (thick) when cold and this causes excess viscous drag between the plates when you pull the clutch. Try a 5W-40 oil like Rotella T6 To minimize the clunk. The first API number is the one that needs to be low (5W) as this corresponds to the cold oil viscosity.

 

[Bounce]

And, waiting for fast idle to settle down to slow idle before shifting into first helps.

 

[escapefjrtist]

As Bounce says, wait for the high idle to settle out. Only takes a minute or so, just enough time to finish the helmet and pull on gloves. I generally wait until I see temp indication in gauges too. Don't baby shifting into first, a good swift push is better then ratcheting it in.

~G

 

[harper]

I turn my music on before I shift into first. That way I can't hear the grind. If I can't hear it, it's not there.

 

[sapest]

Thanks Steve. I had tried operating the clutch, as you suggested, and it didn't change anything. However I am more reassured since hearing from you guys.

Now that you are all squared away, we want to see some New Zealand ride reports plse.
Remember the first ride report rule, without photos, it didnt happen

-Steve

 

[Earlofcrankcase]

I have a low mileage 2005. In summer, I usually don't start it in neutral because the ever pending gear mashy. If I do and there's still any choke idle after moving it and closing the garage door. I turn it off, put in gear, and start it again.

 

[user 99768]

Option 2 - put it in gear before you start the bike.

Hadn't thought of that

 

[user 99768]

I have a low mileage 2005. In summer, I usually don't start it in neutral because the ever pending gear mashy. If I do and there's still any choke idle after moving it and closing the garage door. I turn it off, put in gear, and start it again.

Thanks

 

[user 99768]

I turn my music on before I shift into first. That way I can't hear the grind. If I can't hear it, it's not there.

 

[user 99768]

The reason the transmission clunks when you put it in gear on a cold engine is simple. It’s because the oil viscosity is high (thick) when cold and this causes excess viscous drag between the plates when you pull the clutch. Try a 5W-40 oil like Rotella T6 To minimize the clunk. The first API number is the one that needs to be low (5W) as this corresponds to the cold oil viscosity.

Thanks. this makes sense as I have just done an oil change and used the oil recommended by my local bike shop, 15W50. Upon starting it afterwards and putting it in gear, the gearbox smash was horrendous and caused me to seek help from this forum. I will change the oil to a less viscous oil and see how I go. Thanks.

 

[user 99768]

I have a low mileage 2005. In summer, I usually don't start it in neutral because the ever pending gear mashy. If I do and there's still any choke idle after moving it and closing the garage door. I turn it off, put in gear, and start it again.

Thanks. I've been away from bikes for quite a while but had always found Jap bikes to be super smooth and quiet. So this smashing of the drive train seemed out of character to what I was used to, and expecting but it seems it's normal. Now I have a new normal

 

[user 99768]

And, waiting for fast idle to settle down to slow idle before shifting into first helps.

Yup, the problem does go away once warmed up. Thanks

 

[Sunnyorlando]

Hi,
I have a 2015AF FJR1300. It was purchased by a friend as new, old stock, in 2017. He only did 3500kms in the 5 years before I brought it. It spent most of the time in storage. It was serviced every year, for the 5 years he had it, inline with the warranty requirements.
My problem is the drive train crashes into gear very loudly, when 1st gear is engaged while the engine is cold and on high idle. The problem does not exist when the engine is hot and idling at 1100rpm. I have changed the diff oil, engine oil and filter, hoping this would help however it hasn't. If I try to gently put it in gear you can hear cogs catching each other and chattering. I have tried dropping it into 1st gear abruptly and this generates a terrible crash sound.
The clutch is always smooth, no slippage or shuddering, whether the engine is cold or hot.
I am suspecting that because the bike sat for 2 years before being sold and that my friend hardly rode it, the clutch friction plates may have dried out and so are needing changing. Has anyone had this experience and found a solution? I'd really appreciate informed feedback on what may be going on here and how I can resolve it? My friend always warmed the bike up before riding it so he never experienced the issue I found.

A second observation is that when the bike starts cold, the idle rpm is about 1600rpm, which seems very high to me. Once warmed, the idle rpm is 1100rpm. Are these typical rpms for this bike?
Thanks everyone.

Is it possible that the clutch is not opening all the way? It's sound like the there's friction still when it's cold and high idle and that's why it grinds.
But as mentioned, this happens. However, if it's a lot of friction and it's stalling when you do so, your clutch may not be opening all the way.