Driveshafts

[hoham]

Replacing the rear tire on my '06, I was encouraged to pull the shaft to check for lube. Glad I did. It had almost no grease on the splines. I suggest everyone pull the driveshaft on their FJR on your next tire change.

 

[Bounce]

Good advice!

Now why didn't I say that?

 

[airboss]

Put on new pilot roads at 8000 miles. Pulled the drive shaft, seemed to be some kind of very thin slick flim on the splines, you may not want to wait for a tire change.

 

[designeraccd]

I had mine pulled at the 600 mile service...durn near dry. Guess Yamahahazz bean counters are "saving" the Company a quarter yen per bike by scrimping on the lube...hey, then we can have spline problems like many beemers have had over the years! Wow, I'm impressed... Some good ol HONDA grease took care of that problem! My dealer will now check any FJRs for this at their 600 mile; I informed them it would probably be lacking per info found here and it was. DFO

 

[Dan23]

>>.hey, then we can have spline problems like many beemers have had over the years!<<

Correct me if wrong, but weren't the BMWs designed so the splines were to slide to account for the distance change as the suspension worked? And aren't the FJRs designed so the distance change occurs in the rear hub under full lubrication?

 

[Cdogman]

>>.hey, then we can have spline problems like many beemers have had over the years!<<
Correct me if wrong, but weren't the BMWs designed so the splines were to slide to account for the distance change as the suspension worked? And aren't the FJRs designed so the distance change occurs in the rear hub under full lubrication?

Man, Now I gotta go pull my bike apart.......... (I love working on it anyway)

 

[Feejer/Weejer man]

Yep, this is probably in the FJR Tech site. A known fact, little or no lube noticed from the 03 introduction in 02 by our FJR tech guru WC. I guess Yamaha didn't listen on this fact and leaves them virtually dry. Some of the pics that documented this show rusty and pitted splines.

 

[FJReady]

This shouldn't be news to anyone whos been here a while. But if it is, don't stop at the drive shaft- go all the way in up to your elbows. I mean to the U-Joint. Bounce's excellent tech page has you covered. I did it at first tire change will repeat every time from now on.

Clicky:https://www.bikes-n-spikes.org/maint/ujoint/uj.html

My $.02

 

[Warpdrv]

Took my rear wheel off for tire replacement to the Road Pilots, 05 @ 8000 miles and Splines were lubed up just fine...

to my suprise, but I cleaned them off and relubed with Honda Moly.

Didn't go as far as the U-joints, but its only 1 year old, so I'll be fine until the next tire change..

 

[Dan23]

>>.hey, then we can have spline problems like many beemers have had over the years!<<

Correct me if wrong, but weren't the BMWs designed so the splines were to slide to account for the distance change as the suspension worked? And aren't the FJRs designed so the distance change occurs in the rear hub under full lubrication?

Man, Now I gotta go pull my bike apart.......... (I love working on it anyway)

That's the spirit! Obstinence in the face of reality. <_<

 

[epc71]

This shouldn't be news to anyone whos been here a while. But if it is, don't stop at the drive shaft- go all the way in up to your elbows. I mean to the U-Joint. Bounce's excellent tech page has you covered. I did it at first tire change will repeat every time from now on.

+1

 

[huchieglide]

Replaced tires today at 8,000 miles with Avon's. The rear Metzler had some life left but the front was a tick away from the wear bars. One question though. The fjrtech site shows the torque value for the rear pinch bolt at 11 foot lbs while the 06 service manual shows 17 lbs. Is the lower value for pre 06 models and yamaha changed it for 06? I also cleaned and regreased the rear wheel splines. They had some dark lube on them that I would consider adequate. Since it was apart I removed the four bolts and removed the shaft that conects to the u-joints. The shaft splines had very little lube on them. Maybe the last quarter inch at he tip. I cleaned it and regreased. The tech write up says to wait until the wheel is remounted to torque the four acorn nuts. With the tools I had at hand I could only get to one nut to torque to the recomended 30 pounds. Anyone else have this problem? Should I have just done all four when I slid the shaft in before mounting wheel? :huh:

 

[tyronewildman]

The tech write up says to wait until the wheel is remounted to torque the four acorn nuts. With the tools I had at hand I could only get to one nut to torque to the recomended 30 pounds. Anyone else have this problem? Should I have just done all four when I slid the shaft in before mounting wheel? :huh:

NOPE- Do it the way the write up says. You'll have to feel the proper torque on the inside 2 nuts yourself. The yammy book doesn't say, but other FSMs say it's important to have the axel & wheel installed before torqueing these 4 pumpkin nuts, so the pumpkin will be properly aligned with the axel & wheel. There is enough slop in the 4 stud holes to allow you to misalign it if you torque it before you mount the axel & wheel which would put a strain on the swing arm...Later,,, De

 

[RTSR1/FJR]

The tech write up says to wait until the wheel is remounted to torque the four acorn nuts. With the tools I had at hand I could only get to one nut to torque to the recomended 30 pounds. Anyone else have this problem? Should I have just done all four when I slid the shaft in before mounting wheel? :huh:

If you use an extension with a universal adapter and 14mm (if I remember right) socket, you can get to all of them pretty easy.

 

[SkooterG]

.The tech write up says to wait until the wheel is remounted to torque the four acorn nuts. With the tools I had at hand I could only get to one nut to torque to the recomended 30 pounds. Anyone else have this problem? Should I have just done all four when I slid the shaft in before mounting wheel? :huh:

You don't have to remount the whole wheel. Just put the axle back in place. That will ensure alignment is correct, and you can still get to those inside acorn nuts fairly easily.

 

[S76]

My 06 had adequate, just barely, lube on the splines. What bothered me was the first signs of corrosion mid span on the shaft. I cleaned everything and sprayed the entire shaft with Corrosion X, then lubed the splines.

If you ever buy a used bike and find that every bolt and bolt hole or part you remove is dripping with some kind of grease or oil or corrosion compound, then yup, it was probably mine. I already, just by accident, have identified several corrosion prone areas on the 06.

I think this winter I will do a documentry to identify all of them. Of course I'll have to disassemble the whole bike to do this, but hey, it's the next best thing to riding it.

 

[skyway]

.The tech write up says to wait until the wheel is remounted to torque the four acorn nuts. With the tools I had at hand I could only get to one nut to torque to the recomended 30 pounds. Anyone else have this problem? Should I have just done all four when I slid the shaft in before mounting wheel? :huh:

You don't have to remount the whole wheel. Just put the axle back in place. That will ensure alignment is correct, and you can still get to those inside acorn nuts fairly easily.

So how do you know that the gap/distance between both halves of the swing arm that is normally taken up by the rear wheel is correct when you tighten up the acorn nuts? Or does this not matter?